Questions on 440 assembly

[74BlueFish]

Started assembly of my 505 stroker this weekend and ran into a few problems

#1       The 2 studs at the rear cap are too long and hit the windage tray,  they stick out lower than the bottom of the block.  Stupidly I trimmed the bottom of the stud, but it didn't go in any further, so it must be bottomed on the threads.  I put in hand tight per the directions.  Do  I need a shorter stud or trim the top, but then loose the allen key hole.  Anyone had the problem?   eagle stroker kit, arp studs.   Stud is 4.400 long,  next size shorter is 4.060 not sure if it will be too short.

#2   Installed the roller cam and the timing chain with a thin bearing plate behind it, but the cam is too far in the block.  The lifters are not centered on the lobe.  Also do I need the cam button so it cant come out too far out of the block,  can I use my stock timing chain cover?


#3   I installed the timing chain with the crank at 12 and the cam at 6 o clock,  #1 at TDC,  the valves are about ready to open, so I assume I rotate the engine 1 turn to put #1 at TDC on the comp stroke to meauure the pushrods.     I have PRW stainless roller rockers,  Where do I put the adjusters to measure?   All way out , in , or in the middle?   Do I have to compress the lifters?

#4   Does it matter which way I installed the rods?   I didn't think it make a difference, then I read last night for stock engines the the bearing nothes should face the outboard side of the engine.

Lastly, I have a windage tray,  and only one oil pan gasket,  I need a gasket on both sides, right?


I can't believe the directions are so vague when you buy these parts.

Thanks for any help.
Dan

[Chryco Psycho]

1] I would notch the windage tray to clear the studs , do you have 3/8" above the stud if so you could use the shorter stud
2] all roller cam use a button to stop cam walk , why it is too deep is a mystery , the cam should be desigened to fit correctly unless there is a discrepency in the cam drive gear
3] yes 12& 12 o clock will be tdc firing , I set the adjusters with 2 thread showing under the rocker max , I use Smith Bros pushrods in Bend Or , with hyd you can just have 1 thread showing so you have adjustment for preload , solid lifters  I use 2 threads .
4] Con rods ? the oiling holes always face up toward the cylinder walls & cam which I believe puts the notch outward .
5] you need one gasket above & one below the windage tray

[74BlueFish]

I have to see if the shorter stud is long enough or notch the tray,  I suppose with 2 oil pan gaskets the pan won't hit.

I have the connecting rods on correct

I need to buy a cam button,  maybe the chain tension keeps the cam in the correct spot, lined up with the crank gear?

Thanks for the advice on setting the pushrod length

[HP_Cuda]

One bit of advice, never modify the rotating assembly. Always thing to modify things like the windage tray, etc.

You never want to weaken your rotating assembly otherwise bad things can happen.

[74BlueFish]

Advice taken  HP

I got home and measured again and if I go to the shorter stud I might not have a thread out of the nut.  will go with the same size stud and notch the windage tray and with 2 gaskets I will have room for the oil pan without touching.

Thanks,

[moper]

#3   I installed the timing chain with the crank at 12 and the cam at 6 o clock,  #1 at TDC,  the valves are about ready to open, so I assume I rotate the engine 1 turn to put #1 at TDC on the comp stroke to meauure the pushrods.     I have PRW stainless roller rockers,  Where do I put the adjusters to measure?   All way out , in , or in the middle?   Do I have to compress the lifters?
Adjuster should be no greater than 2 threads showing out the bottom of the rocker. Then you measure and order the pushrods you need from Manton or Smith Bros. They are the same price, same quality, and same turnaround. If this is a hydraulic cam, you have to account for lifter preload when you order the pushrods. Don;t expose more of the threads to add preload - order the right pushrods.

#4   Does it matter which way I installed the rods?   I didn't think it make a difference, then I read last night for stock engines the the bearing nothes should face the outboard side of the engine.   If this is a 505 that uses new rods - there probably isn't an oil hole. The rods are always oriented so the side with the large taper faces the radius on the crank. If this is a Source crank, make sure you measure rod side clearance. Those cranks have larger fillets than other brands and sometimes the bearings hit, causing no side clearance. It can't be run like that. 

Lastly, I have a windage tray,  and only one oil pan gasket,  I need a gasket on both sides, right? If there is a possible K frame clearance issue you can get away with RTV between the tray and the block, but the pan should use a gasket.


I can't believe the directions are so vague when you buy these parts.It's called engine BUILDING. Not engine assembling....lol

Thanks for any help.
Dan

[Moparal]

TIdbit of advice, if you use a stock timing cover, you will need to brace it where the cam button is, or it will push the cam forward and do serious costly damage. Also the thickness of the timing cover gasket needs to be included when you set the end play. You want to limit cam travel to a minimum. like 001 to .004  it's important. Your cam bushing and drive gear will last longer when the end play is correct.  I hope you are degreeing in your cam and not just dot to dot.