Author Topic: Vinyl Top Install Prep  (Read 3161 times)

Offline flagcraig

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Vinyl Top Install Prep
« on: December 19, 2014 - 02:22:04 PM »
I am having my vinyl top (Legendary) professionally installed. 

Do the Drip rail moldings need to go on before they install?

Also, do I need to have any clips or attachments for them to install top?

Any other prep info I might be missing is appreciated.




Offline DocMel

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Re: Vinyl Top Install Prep
« Reply #1 on: December 19, 2014 - 02:36:04 PM »
I installed my own : 2 years old now, looks great.  Unless the guys doing it now E bodies VERY well, I would have everything piece of trim (drip, window, pillar, etc),  installed on the car when you take it to them.  There is VERY little room for error in trimming the vynil to match all of the trim pieces. 

Offline DocMel

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Re: Vinyl Top Install Prep
« Reply #2 on: December 19, 2014 - 02:38:22 PM »
Curious: Was your car originally equipped with a vynil top?

Offline flagcraig

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Re: Vinyl Top Install Prep
« Reply #3 on: December 19, 2014 - 05:35:52 PM »
Yes car was an original vinyl top car.

Offline DocMel

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Re: Vinyl Top Install Prep
« Reply #4 on: December 19, 2014 - 06:29:29 PM »
Ok

The only other thing I can think of is to polish every piece of trim that can be polished before you have the top installed.    You wont believe how much better everything will look once put back together.  You'll never have a better op than now since all the window trim will have to be removed   (Dont forget the large stainless peice that the window wipers sit on as well)

I polished all my trim with about $25 worth of pads and rogue from harbor freight on my bench grinder, and it doesnt take much work

Offline flagcraig

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Re: Vinyl Top Install Prep
« Reply #5 on: December 20, 2014 - 12:01:47 PM »
Not familiar with what a rogue is?


Offline FY1Cuda

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Re: Vinyl Top Install Prep
« Reply #6 on: December 20, 2014 - 12:11:58 PM »
I think he meant "rouge" - polishing compound.

Offline DocMel

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Re: Vinyl Top Install Prep
« Reply #7 on: December 21, 2014 - 10:45:23 AM »
Right:  Rougue comes in what looks like big crayons.  They come in a few dif colors, each color signifying a grit.  You turn on the buffer  (Pad on a bench grinder in my case), touch it against the pad briefly while its running, then polish the item at hand

Go to the Harbor Freight web site, or Eastwood, then take look at some sites on how to buff stainless.  Its VERY easy, initial layout is cheap, and the stuff lasts forever

Offline 67vertman

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Re: Vinyl Top Install Prep
« Reply #8 on: December 21, 2014 - 02:25:20 PM »
Checkout this thread for polishing trim.....by our friend Cody.  :2thumbs:


http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=81891.0



Ron - Born and raised in Southern California

I got the 1970 Cuda, but still need the hot blonde to ride shotgun!

First car -1969 Road Runner 383 4sp

Current ride - 1970 Barracuda 440-6 4 sp Dana 60  (4:10)

Offline flagcraig

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Re: Vinyl Top Install Prep
« Reply #9 on: December 22, 2014 - 03:51:55 PM »
This won't be the last dumb question.....Currently the windows are out of the car because we just finished the paint about a month ago.

Should I leave the windows out of the car when they do the vinyl top?

Thanks.

Offline roadman5312

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Re: Vinyl Top Install Prep
« Reply #10 on: December 22, 2014 - 03:56:16 PM »
This won't be the last dumb question.....Currently the windows are out of the car because we just finished the paint about a month ago.

Should I leave the windows out of the car when they do the vinyl top?

Thanks.
                                   Yep 

Offline DocMel

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Re: Vinyl Top Install Prep
« Reply #11 on: December 22, 2014 - 06:07:03 PM »
They wont get in the way: Either way, they wont make the job any more difficult

Offline anlauto

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Re: Vinyl Top Install Prep
« Reply #12 on: December 22, 2014 - 06:25:53 PM »
They wont get in the way: Either way, they wont make the job any more difficult

Depends if he's talking about the windshield and backglass or the side glass. Of course leaving the windshield and back glass out would only make the job easier. The vinyl top should go under the window trim clips and the window trim clips have to go on before the glass goes in :2cents:
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Offline 750-h2

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Re: Vinyl Top Install Prep
« Reply #13 on: December 22, 2014 - 06:47:13 PM »
I installed my own : 2 years old now, looks great.  Unless the guys doing it now E bodies VERY well, I would have everything piece of trim (drip, window, pillar, etc),  installed on the car when you take it to them.  There is VERY little room for error in trimming the vynil to match all of the trim pieces.
I spoke to my vinyl roof guy today [he has been doing it for 40 years] and he says to install a vinyl top properly that all trim pieces should be installed after the vinyl top. As an example he stated that the drip rail molding has to snap over the vinyl top. This is also how I have seen it done in the past.
« Last Edit: December 22, 2014 - 07:24:42 PM by 750-h2 »

Offline DocMel

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Re: Vinyl Top Install Prep
« Reply #14 on: December 22, 2014 - 08:07:00 PM »
Right:  Sorry, thats what I meant.   An option is to take the car with the trim installed.  That forces the installer to remove them and mark them, so they can be placed in order.  It is an absolute must that all the vynil be placed under the trim

I didn't have my front and rear window removed when I did mine. The material I butted up against all the glass edges, and used that as my mark to cut  (you could see/feel the outline of the edge of the glass).   It prob would be better with the glass removed (don't know) and lay the glass on top of the material:  I didn't, and my top has been fine.   I researched allot of sites on dif cars on the net, step by step videos, and I didnt see one where the front/rear glass had been removed first  In fact it never occurred to me to do so

My big concern in putting the glass over the material would be in the tight turns at the corners. The material would tend to bunch trying to sit/form fit in the window channel, but I am sure the old school guys have figured that one out.  Maybe slit the material in a fashion so it would sit flat in the tight curves 

The hardest part for me was measuring and getting the material just right UNDER the rear window.  Basically, you need to cut a large a fitted "hole" for the rear window