Author Topic: Chally doors  (Read 653 times)

Offline EbodyMod

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Chally doors
« on: December 23, 2014 - 05:54:34 PM »
 :wavingflag: I am debating on whether to re-skin my door or get reproductions. I have read tons on doing it but think it might be above my skill level. have you guys done this and how much of a pain was it from 1-10???? :feedback:
:wavingflag:  Quit being offended by everything, I am sure you are doing something that upsets me, but I am not complaining about you!!! It is a free county get over yourself!




Offline FY1Cuda

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Re: Chally doors
« Reply #1 on: December 23, 2014 - 08:05:06 PM »
It certainly can be done.  The two caveats I can think of is (1) the adhesive is very expensive ($60-70) and (2) the area around the windshield is kind of tricky to get all tucked in correctly.  It is essential that the door fits the opening well to begin with.  If you have some rust through on the outside bottom, but the rest of the door is good, patching it with sheet metal is pretty easy. 
« Last Edit: December 23, 2014 - 08:15:30 PM by FY1Cuda »

Offline jimynick

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Re: Chally doors
« Reply #2 on: December 23, 2014 - 11:35:09 PM »
While they routinely bond door panels these days, I never did. The reason is that if your door needs a wee bit of tweaking to fit the hole better, if you goop it, you won't likely get it back on and adjusted during the pot life of said goop and when that stuff hardens; it's game over trying to adjust it. the same goes for welding the skin to the frame. If the doors fit perfectly, then just grind off the skins and replace them. On your quoted scale, it's a 5 or 6. The trick is in how you hammer the flanges over and I'd recommend not using a BFH like in the above photo. Buy and use, a real body hammer and dollie. Cover the dollie face with a couple of layers of duct tape- smoothly and evenly applied, to cushion the hammer blows and take your time. Don't be afraid to make 3 or 4 passes to overlay the flanges and keep the dollie flat and the hammer blows close, light and evenly together and you'll do fine. Pay close attention, as mentioned, to the area at the frt top as sometimes there isn't enough frame to go completely under the skin and you'll just end up hammering the flange over and seam sealing the gap. I always put a few weld spots in after, and a wire wheel and mig make that easy enough to do. Use a good seam sealer all around and good luck!  :cheers: