Starting question

['Cuda Hunter]

My 440 doesn't like to start until the key is returning to the run position.

So forward all the way,  engine cranks fine, doesn't start running until I let off the key.

[AARTA340]

Have seen that before on other motor sizes as well. Turned out that the ignition switch was failing. May be other areas as well, but this gives you one area to start diagnosing. Good luck and let us know what you find.

[CudamanTom]

Shouldn't it start after cranking and let off the key? 
My real question is, when do you know when to let off the key if it doesn't sound like it's starting?
I keep cranking (for a bit) and pump the gas a couple times and when I hear the faster turn over, I let off the key.
By habit, I let off the key when I think it's starting, again by habit. Is that not happening with you.

But as mentioned, maybe a bad switch? 

['Cuda Hunter]

Have seen that before on other motor sizes as well. Turned out that the ignition switch was failing. May be other areas as well, but this gives you one area to start diagnosing. Good luck and let us know what you find.

Now that you mention it, I think I actually replaced the ignition switch because of this years ago on another vehicle I had.

Shouldn't it start after cranking and let off the key? 
My real question is, when do you know when to let off the key if it doesn't sound like it's starting?
I keep cranking (for a bit) and pump the gas a couple times and when I hear the faster turn over, I let off the key.
By habit, I let off the key when I think it's starting, again by habit. Is that not happening with you.

But as mentioned, maybe a bad switch? 

It's not really happening like that.  It really won't start while I am trying to start it.  But as soon as I let off of the starter, it starts just fine.  Kind of hard to explain as it is a real subtle difference.  But i can tell that it's not starting correctly.

[AARTA340]

If I remember correctly, on the worn switches, when it is rotated to the start position it actually passes the contact just enough to break the coil circuit, but as soon as you release the key to the run position it makes contact and starts.

It will work for sometime like that, but you have to learn when the right time to let off the key so it will actually start and run.

[Bullitt-]

This can also be a wiring issue at the big flat connector at the column, at the bulkhead connector or any wire or connector through the system, including the dual basalt resistor if your car has that....
  Time to familiarize yourself with that wiring diagram & your beloved multimeter. 

['Cuda Hunter]

Ok, so I don't want to sound like I don't know what I'm doing in general, but, What am I looking for with a multimeter?
Where and when I am loosing power to the ignition run circuit?
Or at the builk head connector where the ignition switch harness plugs and separates out?

[Bullitt-]

Two wires from the ignition switch run through the bulkhead connector & to the dual ballast resistor(you do have a dual ballast resistor?).. one is start (brown I think) goes to one side of the ballast only gets power in the start position, the other is run (blue with a tracer I think) and gets power in the run position. Turn the switch to the start position & test the incoming wire for power aprox.12volts, test the power coming out of the ballast for power approx. 6volts. If you have power in & no power out the ballast is the problem, if you have no power then the switch or wiring/connectors should be the problem.


Misstated that voltage, on the start circuit you should get full 12v... 6-8v is on the run side of the ballast.

[AARTA340]

A real easy way to check the suspect switch is if you have a good one handy and disconnect the suspected switch under the dash and connect the known good switch. Do a normal start with the new/good ignition switch. If it starts like it should, bad switch. If it still is acting up, time to start eliminating other problems as suggested by bullitt.

[HP2]

This sounds exactly like the problem my Bro had with his Charger. Swapping the switch fixed it.

I'd agree with above, try another switch out of your fleet and see if it fixes it.

['Cuda Hunter]

Thanks guys! I will try your suggestions out. 
It might be a little while as it is snowing here right now.
But I will post the results when I get it done.

[mopar jack]

Had the same problem with my original switch. The switch is two pieces that are held together with bent tabs and when you rotate the switch it pushes against a return spring and over time this causes the switch to spread apart causing bad contact.

['Cuda Hunter]

Is it fixable?

I am sure I can find another ignition switch.  So I don't have to fix it.  Just curious.

[mopar jack]

Didn't try to fix but you might be able to press it together tighter. I ended up buying a new replacement swith and the plug end that goes to the harness is poor quality. Had more problems than I started with.

['Cuda Hunter]

Who did the ignition switch that was bad come from? Don't want to buy that one.

I figure i will just have to use another used one.