Cowl Panel Replacement

[GCC]

Gettin' ready to purchase a new cowl for my '70 Barracuda.   

Who has the better reproduction of these:  AMD or Goodmark?

If you have done this replacement, did you reproduce all of the spotwelds?  I have heard of using metal bonding adhesive, but I don't want to do that.

Also, is there any way to replace the seal that was installed around the perimeter of the cowl?

[Challenger in NC]

I will be doing the same repair and the AMD panel looks to have very close details to the original and appears to fit pretty well. I do not know about the Goodmark panel, but AMD seems to be pretty accurate.I will spotweld like the factory did but have not decided the best way to seal the panel around the seams. Was thinking of using a rust paint like POR 15 to seal the drain area.Keep us updated on your progress.

[Edison1970]

I used the goodmark.  Never used the AMD so I can't tell you the difference.  It fit perfect.  I had to drill and form the holes for the tabs to install the plastic grills on top.  I plug welded it.  As far as the seal, I haven't done it yet.  Some one on here used panel bond.  I was told by a friend of mine that owns a body shop that he wouldn't recommend doing it that way but I guess everyone has their own opinion.

[jimynick]

It might've been me that you're referring to with the panel bond and I don't know why your friend would object to it's use. We cleaned off the factory prime coat, laid a bead of the 3M panel bond, clamped it and then spot welded it together while the epoxy was still wet. It's a standard repair process that's used every day in the trade. There are new, oem manufacturers who specify panel bonding ONLY for many, large panels when replacing them. Roofs, 1/4 pnls, etc. and if he's not keeping up with his ICAR training, then maybe he's going to cause himself a large and expensive headache, soon. Another friend who runs a high quality bodyshop also swears by using windshield urethane as a seam sealer and I'm thinking of doing it myself. Otherwise, clean the lips well and epoxy paint them, then seal them with whatever you choose. Good luck 

[3D]

I will be doing the same repair and the AMD panel looks to have very close details to the original and appears to fit pretty well. I do not know about the Goodmark panel, but AMD seems to be pretty accurate.I will spotweld like the factory did but have not decided the best way to seal the panel around the seams. Was thinking of using a rust paint like POR 15 to seal the drain area.Keep us updated on your progress.

Are you just going to add the Serial Number on the new one?
i have the same repair to do buy don't want to deal with the Serial Number.

[Challenger in NC]

Are you just going to add the Serial Number on the new one?
i have the same repair to do buy don't want to deal with the Serial Number.

I will probably have to cut out the number on the original panel and try to patch it in OR just keep the original panel with the car, not sure yet. Since the original panel is trash, I'd rather just get rid of it.

[Challenger in NC]

It might've been me that you're referring to with the panel bond and I don't know why your friend would object to it's use. We cleaned off the factory prime coat, laid a bead of the 3M panel bond, clamped it and then spot welded it together while the epoxy was still wet. It's a standard repair process that's used every day in the trade. There are new, oem manufacturers who specify panel bonding ONLY for many, large panels when replacing them. Roofs, 1/4 pnls, etc. and if he's not keeping up with his ICAR training, then maybe he's going to cause himself a large and expensive headache, soon. Another friend who runs a high quality bodyshop also swears by using windshield urethane as a seam sealer and I'm thinking of doing it myself. Otherwise, clean the lips well and epoxy paint them, then seal them with whatever you choose. Good luck 

I seemed to recall that someone had trouble welding the panel with the seam sealer on the panel, the sealer near the weld would either run or pop due to the heat. Have you heard of this? Is it recommended to let the seam sealer cure before plug welding the panel?

[moper]

While not an E body I just finished a B body cowl. The parts are not reproduced so it was harvesting a parts car's cap and repairing it, along with fabbing parts to repair the firewall/lower cowl. In terms of operations - once the parts were cleaned and rust taken care of I etch primed them inside and out, single-stage topcoated the inside of the cap and the top of the lower cowl, cleaned off the spot weld locations to bare and hit with 3M weld through, then plug welded the cap on. I transferred the VIN number panel to the replacement cowl cap. after welding and dressing them I went back in by hand using my finger to apply the seam sealer inside the cowl. I'm fairly large and it was no problem to reach everywhere. It just takes a litle time. I would not only use panel bond myself. 

[Edison1970]

jimynick, I don't believe it was your thread I was referring to.  The one I remember only used the panel bond, and not welding. 

[jimynick]

jimynick, I don't believe it was your thread I was referring to.  The one I remember only used the panel bond, and not welding.

Not a problem. As for the other comment about letting the bond glue dry before spot welding it- DON'T. The story I hear is that it'll explode. Obviously we're not dealing with explosives here, but apparently the dry bonding agent can't take the current/heat and will locally shatter. Be safe. It still splatters a wee bit while wet, but nothing excessive. I'm an old school bodyman and tend to feel, as mentioned, that you shouldn't use just the bonding agent, BUT, that stuff is used for structural panels all the time these days and it makes you wonder. 

[jleveille]

I will be doing the same repair and the AMD panel looks to have very close details to the original and appears to fit pretty well. I do not know about the Goodmark panel, but AMD seems to be pretty accurate.I will spotweld like the factory did but have not decided the best way to seal the panel around the seams. Was thinking of using a rust paint like POR 15 to seal the drain area.Keep us updated on your progress.

I just replaced mine last winter on my 73 Cuda and used the AMD panel. I went with AMD because the details looked more correct than the Goodmark one. The fit was a whole different story. I had to stretch, pull, use a BFH,  and use the BFG again to get it right. I did use my original cowl. Across the windshield was nice but the fitment around the sides left a lot to be desired and the gap across the bottom was a couple inches with the top clamped.

I ended up clamping all along the floor pan first, then drawing in the upper to the a-pillars using bolts at the factory holes behind the windshield. It was a chore but I won. If I was to do it again I would go with a Goodmark piece.
  

[Challenger in NC]

I just replaced mine last winter on my 73 Cuda and used the AMD panel. I went with AMD because the details looked more correct than the Goodmark one. The fit was a whole different story. I had to stretch, pull, use a BFH,  and use the BFG again to get it righ. I did use my original cowl. Across the windshield was nice but the fitment around the sides left a lot to be desired and the gap across the bottom was a couple inches with the top clamped.

I ended up clamping all along the floor pan first, then drawing in the upper to the a-pillars using bolts at the factory holes behind the windshield. I was a chore but I won. If I was to do it again I would go with a Goodmark piece.
  

Sounds like you went through a lot of work, but looks good in the end.

[jleveille]

Sounds like you went through a lot of work, but looks good in the end.

Thanks, I should have also mentioned to test fit the windshield before welding anything.

[Challenger in NC]

Thanks, I should have also mentioned to test fit the windshield before welding anything.

Definitely.

[GCC]

When you guys use that 3M weld-thru primer (or other brand) for plug welding like on the cowl replacement, can you strike the arc right on the primer, or do you have to have bare metal at the weld location?