parts painted with rattle can look like crap - what did I do wrong?

[dakota]

In an attempt to keep making progress on my car while winter beats down on us, I painted some rear suspension components in my basement.   The results were terrible:  even after a couple of days drying time, the topcoat is so soft that it can be easily scratched off with a fingernail (1st picture) down to the primer.   There are also some soft glossy blotches that rub off down to the primer with finger pressure (2nd picture).  Over the years, I've used rattle cans on lots of stuff but never had this happen before.

The parts were cleaned up with a wire wheel, sprayed with Loctite Rust Neutralizer (first time using it), then Rustoleum primer, followed by Krylon semi-gloss black acrylic enamel.   

The paint had spent a month or more well-chilled (many days below freezing) in the garage, but were in the house to warm up for about a day before use.   I think the coats went on a little heavy as I did these on my workbench (vs. on the ground) making an effort to limit overspray since ventilation is limited.    Could the Loctite be a factor?   Maybe the paint wasn't mixed well?

I'm going to do them over again and would like to get it right the second time.   What did I do wrong?

(insert plug from Alan for Seymour Stainless Steel paint here)

[anlauto]

I'm going to say "Loctite Rust Neutralizer (first time using it)" is the culprit...

I also resist using primers whenever possible.

['Cuda Hunter]

What's the problem with primers?

[anlauto]

MY OPINION....A lot of paints, especially Seymours paints are designed to "bite" into porous materials like steel. When most primers are also sealers, they get the "bite" and the  colour coat just lays on top prone to easy scratching and stuff.....again, just my opinion.

[HP_Cuda]

Potentially its the amount paint you are shooting and the temp you are shooting it at.

I usually only shoot paint when its over 60 degrees so you don't have to second guess yourself.

As well, when painting I prefer to do it with multiple lighter layers instead of trying to dump it on there.

Just my 

[CUDA JAS]

and the paint may have gone bad...usually once its frozen, it is no good.

[shawge]

With spray paint, I've found that having many light coats is preferable few heavy coats.  With heavy coats, the solvents get trapped underneath the upper layer and either take forever or never really dries out.   +1 on the temp comment - the temp of the paint and part being painted play a part as well.

[Skunkworks Challenger]

I don't mix rustoluem and krylon. 

['Cuda Hunter]

MY OPINION....A lot of paints, especially Seymours paints are designed to "bite" into porous materials like steel. When most primers are also sealers, they get the "bite" and the  colour coat just lays on top prone to easy scratching and stuff.....again, just my opinion.

Makes since.  thanks

[Racer57]

During the winter I always put my paint can on the home heating duct to warm the can up.

[73EStroker]

1. Always store paint in a heated environment
2. I always use an aluminum self etching primer prior to painting anything like engine blocks or suspension components. Let it dry for 2-3 hours in a 70 degree environment.
3. And as another poster stated - don't lay paint on too thick. Multiple thin coats about 1 hour apart. Two should be enough. I thin POR down 10% then spray it on.
4. For what you have now try putting the parts near a heater for a few hours but not where it gets hot.
5. Remember the paint will always look like what the part is underneath. Applies to entire cars as well.

[BIGSHCLUNK]

I'm no wiz @ painting by any means, but come fall ANY rattle can stuff goes from the garage to the house. Something about paint that was froze at one time never seems to work right for me. 

[74 challenge]

I painted a ton of stuff using spray paint and it turned out awesome.

I only use primers from the same company (krylon to krylon, rusto-o-leum to rust-o-leum etc...)
many thin coats. I did my water pump pulley in 5 coats I think, some coats were so thin it was almost unnoticeable.
I have never used a rust neutralizer. I find soaking those evo-rust type baths work great for light surface rust
I rub everything down first with grease and wax remover prior to paint.
after I have painted the object I tend to put it in a sunny place, in my mind this makes a difference but it likely might be just doing the same things over and over because it has worked for me in the past lol.
I keep my quality paints in the house over the winter, however I am guilty of having a couple of tremclad cans in the garage that I re-use on bolts after a winter in the garage.

[CUDA JAS]

I painted a ton of stuff using spray paint and it turned out awesome.

I only use primers from the same company (krylon to krylon, rusto-o-leum to rust-o-leum etc...)
many thin coats. I did my water pump pulley in 5 coats I think, some coats were so thin it was almost unnoticeable.
I have never used a rust neutralizer. I find soaking those evo-rust type baths work great for light surface rust
I rub everything down first with grease and wax remover prior to paint.
after I have painted the object I tend to put it in a sunny place, in my mind this makes a difference but it likely might be just doing the same things over and over because it has worked for me in the past lol.
I keep my quality paints in the house over the winter, however I am guilty of having a couple of tremclad cans in the garage that I re-use on bolts after a winter in the garage.

I rub everything down first with grease and wax remover prior to paint - that sir is a good recommendation.  One I always follow but did not mention above.

The other key to a good paint job is good proper prep.  If the prep is bad the paitn will look bad.

Jason

[turbo224]

As most have already stated, the prep makes a huge difference. And if the paint is cold it will come out extremely grainy and textured. I clean my parts with lacquer thinner, apply about three very light coats of paint, and then one final very heavy layer. I've found that the finaly heavy layer is the key to getting a silky smooth finish with no texture that most spray jobs leave behind.