Battery died- going to gut it to keep the look

[brads70]

Looks great, you must have more patience than me. I still have the broken shell lying around in my scrap pile as the scrap guy won't take it.

[tommyg29]

Look at the screw in battery posts that you put on to a side post battery to hook up our type of clamps. They come with an integrated 3/8" bolt that you can bolt to from inside the case. Bolt a big fender washer inside the case then cable, lock washer, nut, to lock it down. Comes with a hex base but you can trim or file it down to hide the shape.

If you look at my last picture you will see I ordered the model that comes with the sae type posts and a metal jacket (for higher operating temps). I unscrewed the posts for use inside the case, but just in case I need to use it outside the case I can screw the posts back on.
Are you saying to remove the existing posts in the battery and replace them with new posts?

[tommyg29]

Darn, the photos are not coming out for me.  Do you have a link to your Photobucket?

Doesnt it link when you click on the picture?

[tommyg29]

Shelbydog, a picture is worth a thousand words.
Thanks for the tip.

and PS,
I used a cutoff tool to cut the opening in the bottom, but I overcut the corners. Big mistake. It makes it a LOT easier for it to start cracking in those corners. Cut the corners clean, and maybe you wont have to reinforce them with epoxy like I will.

[tman]

Doesnt it link when you click on the picture?

It does link, but I cannot zoom in the photo.  But the photos are on this thread now.  Nice Job.  When pulling guts out, you used those vise grips and is there any concern of shorting any of those plates?  I do see your concern with the attachment to the battery posts on the shell. 

[ShelbyDogg]

Shelbydog, a picture is worth a thousand words.
Thanks for the tip.

These are sold to use a top post battery cables on a side post battery.  See the threads sticking out? One of them is longer. If you get one of these, you can trim it down to stick down into the battery and bolt to from the bottom. If you need to keep it from turning while putting a nut on the bottom, you can use a battery cable clamp on top to hold it.

You might be able to remove the old post and stick this down into the hole. If you need more thread, remove some lead from the bottom.



Should be able to find anywhere or ebay:
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Battery-Side-Terminal-Charging-Posts-for-Auto-Car-Truck-Boat-/351330309479?hash=item51cceb1567&vxp=mtr

[crackedback]

Drill the four corners of the section you plan to remove.  Nice rounded corners.  No stress risers from the sharp edges.

Nice work on the battery! 

[tommyg29]

Some good tips.
Thanks.
I saw those posts online after you mentioned them. Is it easy to pull out the old posts? Are they just press fit, or need to drill them out?

[ShelbyDogg]

I never cut one out but I've seen battery carry straps tha carry the battery by only holding on to the posts, so tha post may be solid. I would cut the top off flush with the case using a cutoff wheel, then maybe drill a 3/8 hole through the center and see what it is made of and go from there.   I haven't done this mod but have a old battery as pictured. For all of my cars including the big blocks, I used the smaller group 74 pushed all the way back and use the front space for a coolant overflow bottle.

Can't have a cool car when it is puking all over a car show parking lot.

[tommyg29]

Was able to make it to and from the annual florida mopar nats today, 50 miles each way, but got back and it wouldnt start. Battery read 10.8 volts.
So Ive got to figure out a charging problem too. My new "remanufactured" alternator isnt putting out, and this time I'm taking it to a guy I trust much better than the discount auto parts place I bought it from.
I just ordered those posts and Im going to give it a shot.
Thanks Shelby.

[tman]

Was able to make it to and from the annual florida mopar nats today, 50 miles each way, but got back and it wouldnt start. Battery read 10.8 volts.
So Ive got to figure out a charging problem too. My new "remanufactured" alternator isnt putting out, and this time I'm taking it to a guy I trust much better than the discount auto parts place I bought it from.
I just ordered those posts and Im going to give it a shot.
Thanks Shelby.

Were you able to rectify your no start problem?  If the charging system is working ok, could it be the low CCA rating of the Odyssey battery?  I noticed another alternative to your modification.  Did you consider the PC950 or the PC1200?  Hope things are working out for you.

[tommyg29]

I replaced my "new" alternator with another and the VR just in case (and grounded it real well with a bolt through the firewall backed with a good, tight nut) and everything works well now.
I took careful measurements, and looked at the specs of ALL their batteries, and the battery I used is the one I think works best with the oem type battery. It leaves some extra room, which is good, because it allows easy access to it and storage of the 15-18" cables that I used. I have a small drain on my battery when the car sits though (maybe the clock?), and I have noticed it drains down in a week or two if left untended, whereas the old battery took 3-4 weeks.
I just use the right battery tender and no issues.

[tman]

Good to hear things are going good.  I was looking at the specs of Odyssey batts.  Seems there are a couple other alternatives that would fit inside the old Mopar battery, when the time comes for me.  A bit bigger and more CCA's. 

[Cudaragtop]

Glad it worked out for you.

They are spendy... $300 plus shipping
Says more than 10 available.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-TurboStart-S27MRL-1969-74-Mopar-Group-27-AGM-Sealed-Classic-Battery-960-CCA-/261866939175

[tommyg29]

IIRC I stayed away from those because so many people on other boards complain about their failure rate.