Author Topic: Green bearings  (Read 1717 times)

Offline john h

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Green bearings
« on: April 08, 2015 - 01:07:57 PM »
Question about the install of the axle.  I'm planning on having my center section rebuilt.  After I re-install the center section and get it properly filled, and I'm ready to install my axles do I just mate then up into the gears and bolt them down to torque spec or is there more to it?  since I don't have the adjusters I assume it's replace the inner seal and carefully slide the axle into place.  I removed them to get the new bearings pressed on but never gave it much thought because it was going into an already noisy center section.  I don't want to make any mistakes with the rebuilt one.

Thanks
John
John
73 Cuda
360 Crate motor
FiTech Fuel injection
727 Trans (wishing it had Over Drive)




Offline jhaag

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Re: Green bearings
« Reply #1 on: April 08, 2015 - 01:41:46 PM »
Yup, that's it. Make sure that whoever rebuilt the center section took out the spacer/slider that is in the middle. Can't use it with green bearings.
love 70 Challengers

Offline john h

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Re: Green bearings
« Reply #2 on: April 13, 2015 - 05:55:03 PM »
Yup, that's it. Make sure that whoever rebuilt the center section took out the spacer/slider that is in the middle. Can't use it with green bearings.
I'm not sure about he components of the center section..... if I never replaced that before and used the Green bearings, what issues would it cause?  Just curious because I have the green bearings in use right now and the axles were mated with the stock chunk that would have used the adjusters on a tapered bearing.
« Last Edit: April 14, 2015 - 01:19:51 PM by john h »
John
73 Cuda
360 Crate motor
FiTech Fuel injection
727 Trans (wishing it had Over Drive)

Offline sadil340

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Re: Green bearings
« Reply #3 on: April 14, 2015 - 08:03:35 AM »
I have green bearings in my car and have heard that they wear quickly because they were intended more for straight line duty. True?
1970 Cuda 340 4-speed
3:55 SureGrip
Owned since 1974
Bought from original owner

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: Green bearings
« Reply #4 on: April 22, 2015 - 06:41:02 PM »
Yes, Tapered seat roller bearings have large contact area compared to the small edges or a ball bearing
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline sadil340

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Re: Green bearings
« Reply #5 on: April 23, 2015 - 01:21:35 PM »
Yes, Tapered seat roller bearings have large contact area compared to the small edges or a ball bearing
Thanks Rob!  :thumbsup:
1970 Cuda 340 4-speed
3:55 SureGrip
Owned since 1974
Bought from original owner

Offline Aracer

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Re: Green bearings
« Reply #6 on: April 25, 2015 - 11:49:02 PM »
Dr. Diff will shorten his axles to accommodate the spacer and not touch it. You have a choice.

Offline kato

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Re: Green bearings
« Reply #7 on: May 01, 2015 - 04:30:04 PM »
 :nono:
I ran green bearing for a little while...got rid of the tapered bearing adjusters and put in the supposed better bearing in...500 miles later there is gear oil everywhere because the bearings let go...these bearing are meant for straight line use as far as I am concerned..took me a while and a bit of money wasted to get the axle adjusters and bearing back to stock tapered

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: Green bearings
« Reply #8 on: May 01, 2015 - 07:09:52 PM »
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline brasil

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Re: Green bearings
« Reply #9 on: May 02, 2015 - 02:06:54 PM »
I am running green bearings ( from Moser! )not the MOPAR Greens...  they are different..  A lot of guys here in Germany run those bearings with no issues
the most Important thing , is to get rid of the distance block in the Diff... ( looked diff ) or shorten the axle shafts a little . Most of the issues come from the load /pressure that occurs when the "block " is still in place...  same with OEM shafts that are not Shortend.

Greetings Juergen