A couple issues with new door panels

[anlauto]

Confirmed you have the correct window regulator

[blown motor]

I'm back. So I flipped the top clip and got it in place properly. It was a bit tricky but I'm sure it's right. The panel still stands out about an 1/8" as seen in the pic. I pulled the driver's panel out of the box and measured it, then measured the door. The door frame has a somewhat tapered shoulder that the panel fits over but the panel is very square shouldered and seems to be 1/8-1/4" narrower than the door. Herein lies the problem. I can spread the ends a bit by hand but the shop my car is in is only 50* at best and the panel is a bit stiff. So here's my thought, I'll use a hair dryer to warm up the ends of the panel to gain some flexability and spray the door shoulder with WD40. I'm hoping this will let the panel slip on to the door a little deeper and hopefully be flush. Will it work or does someone have a better idea?

I would like some opinions on my hair dryer and WD40 idea please.   

[blown motor]

I just had a thought and maybe I'm grasping at straws here. The shed where the car is stays at about 50*. If the car was outside in the sun on a nice day and the temp inside the car got up to 90 or better would the door panel expand enough to help the situation?

[brads70]

I just had a thought and maybe I'm grasping at straws here. The shed where the car is stays at about 50*. If the car was outside in the sun on a nice day and the temp inside the car got up to 90 or better would the door panel expand enough to help the situation?

I doubt it.

[Challenger6pak]

How about your door?  Has it ever been damaged?  In the pics it looks like it may have been damaged at one time.  Maybe the panel is good.

[jimynick]

The question Murray, is does the panel touch the door with the base of the edge flange and the lip then sticks out and away from the door frame? Is the configuration of the new panel the exact same as the old one? You may need to heat the flange, but be sure you apply the heat to the inside of the trim panel so you don't screw up the texturing. It may turn out to be a job best left for the aforementioned 90' weather, so bring it over to the shop and we'll see, over a nice chilly Chrystal in August. 

[blown motor]

How about your door?  Has it ever been damaged?  In the pics it looks like it may have been damaged at one time.  Maybe the panel is good.

Why do you suspect damage? 

[CudamanTom]

How about your door?  Has it ever been damaged?  In the pics it looks like it may have been damaged at one time.  Maybe the panel is good.

That thought come to mind when I saw the angle of the window crank in the one picture. That's not normal IMHO.

[TelisSE440]

You have the center upper clip installed on the the frame (green arrow). You shouldn't have any other upper clips installed (front or back of the panel - red arrows) because it won't install correctly (or not at all). The panel slots (red arrows) must clip on the upper door frame along with the center spring and bring the panel to a position almost touching the frame. If this has been done and put screws on the panel, you should look the door from the upper side and watch the gap where the door window comes out of, from front to back. It should have a smooth even gap where the thickness shouldn't be more than that of two door windows put together (I know rough estimate but I'm not with my Challenger right now). Also check if the door panel touches the door window too much because if it does, it may be pushing it a lot so you can't install it properly (but i think it's unlikely to be that).

[AussieMark]

What I would do is remove the window winder assembly from the door. Get a piece of steel plate, mark out the winder mounting holes using the winder assembly as a template weld a piece of pipe onto the plate in the same spot as the winder shaft. Bolt this plate into the door just as you would with the winder assembly using longer bolts and suitable nuts and use the pipe as a leaver (slide an extension on for more leverage if need be) slightly tweak the inner door shell so the winder shaft is at a better angle, do it a little bit at a time and check your progress as you go. Another easier way but more expensive is an electric window conversion!

[Challenger6pak]

Why do you suspect damage? 

I really don't.  Just trying to check off all possiblities.  It does look a little off, but I can tell you have a camera with a wide angle lens.


On original cars, When they were daily drivers, I have seen the seems split on panels that were stretched into place.  The edge screws would commonly pull out and larger screws were added to keep the panels on.  I have seen factory examples of window cranks hitting.  We used to remove the rear spring and bend the window crank out slightly.  Most of the original cars were poorly put together.  Automokers and workers were after a paycheck. They had no idea they were building an American icon.  Most restored cars are far nicer than the originals were.  With that in mind, your panel is not too bad.  The door screw holes are slots. You can reposition the screws if it helps.

[Challenger6pak]

This is an original door panel on a 70,000 mile car. You can see the fitment.  It has a gap also. If you leave your screws as tight as they are you will crack your panel at the screw holes. 

[blown motor]

I have a tiny bit of clearance on the window crank handle so as long as we remember to pull outward a bit when cranking it should be ok. The BIG problem is the fitment. I measured the old and new panel and the new one is 3/16 narrower at the mid point. That's why it won't sit in flush. Not sure how to deal with that.    Does anyone have a panel stretcher?

[Challenger6pak]

I would get in contact with the place you got it from.  If they were all like that we would have heard by now.  I think you might have a bad panel.

[blown motor]

But why would one panel be different when they all come out of the same mould? I checked with the retailer, they have had no complaints.