Burned my fusible link

[734406pk]

They had normal fuses back then. Why didnt they use those instead of a weak-link wire that burns?

You can change to a Buss Maxi fuse and holder. They make an 80 amp fuse/holder kit. Available at any stereo installer and auto parts stores. Easy to change but just not OEM if that's important.

[solarguy]

They had normal fuses back then. Why didnt they use those instead of a weak-link wire that burns?

The fusible link is like a slow blow fuse in that it takes a bit to fry it where as a regular fuse pops instantly.  Imagine starting your car with all the accessories on, wipers, heater blower motor, radio, etc.  It protects against "nuisance "  trips while protecting against catastrophic failures.  The individual circuits are protected with the "instant" fail fuses.   

[tommyg29]

Thanks. Im going to reinstall an oem type fusible link. Think I found my problem. See picture. I found this first thing checking today. These are the 4 wires running to the alternator post. The lower two wires are new, feeding my headlight relay harness from Rob. The other red is my starter relay bypass, and the pinched black wire is the original. Sure enough I think I found a small mark on the alternator housing too.
Not sure how I did that but its tight and hard to see down there with a/c and heater lines running through.
If I ever get my roadrunner and install another vintage a/c, Im gonna make sure I hide as much of the lines as possible. I hate em. Maybe run them down low along the rails, or even up under the fenders

[tommyg29]

Also found my voltage regulator upper mount screw was loose!!
This time I am going to through bolt it, with a nut and lockwasher behind the firewall, reachable through the cowl vent. Not hard to get to. It wont be coming loose again.

[roadman5312]

Were going to run all the A/C and heater lines inside the RF fender on Toxic;s car, put the drier in there too. 

[73440]

Wiring only takes one hidden place to cause trouble .

Had an intermittent running problem with Harley.
After the last time pushing the bike , I went thru it all and found the extra wire I had stuffed behind the battery, for a side of the road repair, had worn thru and would touch the battery box occasionally, would kick and kick and the wire would finally move away from the metal and would run.

The last time pushing up the hill, I asked God to, not help me push but ,just keep me from going backwards, and I felt a handprint on my back with slight pressure when leaning backwards.

[roadman5312]

Wiring only takes one hidden place to cause trouble .

Had an intermittent running problem with Harley.
After the last time pushing the bike , I went thru it all and found the extra wire I had stuffed behind the battery, for a side of the road repair, had worn thru and would touch the battery box occasionally, would kick and kick and the wire would finally move away from the metal and would run.

The last time pushing up the hill, I asked God to, not help me push but ,just keep me from going backwards, and I felt a handprint on my back with slight pressure when leaning backwards.

                        He helps when ya ask.  Kick start Harley, a TRUE BIKER.   

[onebadfish]

I been going through my car as well getting it ready. When I put it away last year it was over charging and boiling the battery. I bought a new alternator (original was painted black and I didn't like that) from Napa - 60 bucks, good deal and I want to hook up an alternator bypass.....anyway checking my voltage regulator and both bolts were loose and the top bolt just keeps turning. Question - are these things normally bolted or do they have those frame clamps for the bolts similar to the battery tray? Tommy - glad to hear you can access this bolt was wondering how I was going to do this!

[tommyg29]

easy access to the back of the top of the firewall through the cowl vent. Remove the plastic grill on passenger side.

[crackedback]

Good to see you appear to have found the issue.

[dodj]

Also found my voltage regulator upper mount screw was loose!!
This time I am going to through bolt it, with a nut and lockwasher behind the firewall, reachable through the cowl vent. Not hard to get to. It wont be coming loose again.

That's what I did with my VR.
I would recommend a 'star' lock washer rather than the typical split type. The VR is grounded with those mounting bolts and the star type bites into the firewall metal better reducing the chance of poor grounding. 

[roadman5312]

That's what I did with my VR.
I would recommend a 'star' lock washer rather than the typical split type. The VR is grounded with those mounting bolts and the star type bites into the firewall metal better reducing the chance of poor grounding. 

                                I also like to run an additional ground wire from the back of the block to the vr mounting bolt.

[734406pk]

Thanks. Im going to reinstall an oem type fusible link. Think I found my problem. See picture. I found this first thing checking today. These are the 4 wires running to the alternator post. The lower two wires are new, feeding my headlight relay harness from Rob. The other red is my starter relay bypass, and the pinched black wire is the original. Sure enough I think I found a small mark on the alternator housing too.
Not sure how I did that but its tight and hard to see down there with a/c and heater lines running through.
If I ever get my roadrunner and install another vintage a/c, Im gonna make sure I hide as much of the lines as possible. I hate em. Maybe run them down low along the rails, or even up under the fenders

That black colored wire is the original alternator output wire that goes through the bulkhead connector to your ammeter. I would suggest disconnecting it at the bulkhead connector for safety as this wire is now unnecessary with the bypass. It is live all time and not fused TO the ammeter. A potential for disaster!

[734406pk]

                                I also like to run an additional ground wire from the back of the block to the vr mounting bolt.

Great idea! The vr has to have a good case ground to the firewall to work properly. If the vr is loose, I can cause an overcharging issue or burn out and not charge at all. Mopars use a hex head self tapping fastener to fasten the vr to the firewall. Over time the tapped threads strip in the firewall making for a loose vr, so bolting in with nuts is a simple fix. Just make sure that the vr has a good ground through all of the paint. A continuity washer (or star washer) under each bolt head and nut is a plus and running an extra ground wire (16ga) to the engine block is even better. 

[Bullitt-]

                                I also like to run an additional ground wire from the back of the block to the vr mounting bolt.

Wouldn't be necessary if the factory ground strap is present, but I've seen plenty that this item is missing. 

similar to this