Burned my fusible link

[734406pk]

Wouldn't be necessary if the factory ground strap is present, but I've seen plenty that this item is missing. 

similar to this
 

Yes plenty are missing! These straps look unnecessary and are often eliminated, but not the case. The engine and drivetrain are rubber mounted from the chassis and these straps help eliminate ground side voltage drop.

[roadman5312]

I like to use additional ground straps on anything attached to a painted surface. It may be overkill, but I rarely have electrical issues on cars I rewire.      90% of cars I look at having electrical problems, it's grounding issues.

[tommyg29]

Thanks for all the replies. I added bite washers a few years ago. Thats what Ive always called them, but they dont help much if the hole gets stripped. I have that ground strap too, and the paint is scraped off in the right spot, so I am just waiting for a new fusible link and new VR (just in case) to arrive before reinstalling.
Question about the original black alternator to ammeter wire, I thought it needed to stay connected because it also supplied a few accessories on the passenger side of the firewall? If not then why not just disconnect it from the alternator? I need to look at my diagram again. 

[734406pk]

Since the addition of the ammeter bypass wire, you don't need or want the original black wire connected to the output terminal to the bulkhead connector. My diagram shows engine harness pin 18 as the alternator output wire. Disconnect the battery. Disconnect black wire at the alternator, cut off the ring terminal and tape the wire (or remove). Then remove the engine harness from the bulkhead connector and remove the wire with the spade terminal attached. Tape off or cut the terminal and leave it disconnected or remove the black wire. The accys (entire car)are already feed from the fuse link side through the ammeter. To take it a step further, (recommended) you can electrically disconnect the ammeter completely by disconnecting and securely splicing the Red fuse linked battery wire to the black alternator wire just behind the ammeter. This way the ammeter is not in the circuit at all (doesn't work anyway, it's bypassed).Check your wiring diagram to confirm and post any questions. Good Luck!

[tommyg29]

Ok, I disconnected the black wire from the alternator post but havent yet disconnected the other end from the bulkhead connector. Not yet anyway.
I started the car up and wouldnt you know, now all the lights and accesories are blinking. I am so frustrated I think I might trade it for a 70 mustang!
I think I hear the a/c relays under the dash clicking fast. Sounds almost like sparks... a real fast blinking, faster than the blinking lights, which are more like dimming and brighter once or twice a second. Could fried relays be causing this? Only relays I have in the car that I know of are the fuel pump, two for the vintage a/c (not sure why two) and the two new headlight relays.
All I have done is install a new VR and through bolted it for a good ground, and replaced the fusible link, but disconnecting the black wire means all the power to the interior goes through the fusible link now? Its only 16g.

[Bullitt-]

Is the headlight switch on?   I understand there is a built in auto reset protector in the headlight switch.
Make sure the emergency flashers are not on, you can get a feedback loop through that.

[734406pk]

Do you have the ammeter  bypass wire connected?

[734406pk]

There may be an issue with your ammeter masked by the bypass wire. It's not a problem to fix so please don't go Mustang!

[tommyg29]

Headlights and flashers off, but they blink too when you turn them on.
Starter bypass wire runs from alternator post to starter relay. Original wire is disconnected at alternator end but still connected through the bulkhead connector.
Looking at the schematic, this original black wire through #18 in the bulkhead connector feeds to a connector that runs to the ignition switch, the ammeter, horn relay?, the fuse block (which feeds all the accessories) and also feeds all the rear lights. I assume these circuits are all now backfed through only the fusible link and the ammeter? The fusible link circuit runs through the bulkhead direct to the ammeter.
And btw, it only blinks when the engine is running.

[734406pk]

Yes! Correct! The electrical load is backfed thought the ammeter (a resistor). You want to eliminate this resistance by disconnecting the ammeter and splicing the red fuse link wire to the black " load" side wire. This will allow the load side to feed directly from the fuse link (protecting the car). The alternator will charge the battery through the bypass directly through the starter relay to the positive terminal of the battery. Check the diagram to confirm this. BTW an 80 amp alternator should have a 6 ga wire for full output capability. Post back any questions! This mod can be a bit intimidating but will make common sense when completed. Have faith, don't go FORD!

[tommyg29]

Yes! Correct! The electrical load is backfed thought the ammeter (a resistor). You want to eliminate this resistance by disconnecting the ammeter and splicing the red fuse link wire to the black " load" side wire. This will allow the load side to feed directly from the fuse link (protecting the car). The alternator will charge the battery through the bypass directly through the starter relay to the positive terminal of the battery. Check the diagram to confirm this. BTW an 80 amp alternator should have a 6 ga wire for full output capability. Post back any questions! This mod can be a bit intimidating but will make common sense when completed. Have faith, don't go FORD!

I will upgrade the bypass from my 10g to 6g. And does it need an 80a fuse?
Not easy to get up back behind the ammeter though. Do most just cut the two wires at a more convenient spot, or do they actually disconnect them from the ammeter? Dont imagine it matters.

[734406pk]

I will upgrade the bypass from my 10g to 6g. And does it need an 80a fuse?
Not easy to get up back behind the ammeter though. Do most just cut the two wires at a more convenient spot, or do they actually disconnect them from the ammeter? Dont imagine it matters.

You can install a fuse link in the alternator output wire, but not totally necessary. If you do, go over alternator output, say 100 amps or so. You can splice the red/black anywhere on the dash harness that will work. I've always have done the splice at the ammeter connectors. Check the wiring diagram for the best/easiest spot. I know it's not easy with the dash assembled but it's worth it. Good luck and post back if you have questions. 

[tommyg29]

6g bypass, 100a fuse, bypass ammeter. Sounds easy enough.
Thanks.
I just hope that solves my blinking

[734406pk]

It should fix it but if not, post back. It's not a problem!

[Cudaragtop]

A #6 wire is going to be pretty big.
Alternatively you could use a quality #8 wire.