Author Topic: Fuel Pump Question  (Read 1806 times)

Offline cudabob496

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Fuel Pump Question
« on: April 18, 2015 - 01:34:16 AM »
I have a mechanical fuel pump on my stroked 440. Pressure has been going down, and is at 4 psi now.
I took apart the pump, and rubber diaphram looks ok, though pump has about 50,000 miles on it. Could there be some other kinda problem, like
with that rod below the fuel pump lever, that is installed with that large Alan head bolt?

Not sure if I'm supposed to mess with that rod, when I do this fuel pump change?

If I put in a new rod, can the old or new one fall into the engine??
« Last Edit: April 18, 2015 - 02:23:09 AM by cudabob496 »
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000




Offline 734406pk

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Re: Fuel Pump Question
« Reply #1 on: April 18, 2015 - 08:43:21 AM »
I have a mechanical fuel pump on my stroked 440. Pressure has been going down, and is at 4 psi now.
I took apart the pump, and rubber diaphram looks ok, though pump has about 50,000 miles on it. Could there be some other kinda problem, like
with that rod below the fuel pump lever, that is installed with that large Alan head bolt?

Not sure if I'm supposed to mess with that rod, when I do this fuel pump change?

If I put in a new rod, can the old or new one fall into the engine??

The rod actually was above the fuel pump lever before the pump was removed. It slid out of the block a bit and looks like its below the pump. The rod pushes on the fuel pump lever to make it work. Remove the Allen head pipe plug and pull out the rod, you can measure it for wear in length and diameter to see if it's usable or just buy a new one. Not expensive. Apply some sticky grease like axle grease, Lubriplate 105 etc to the outside of the rod, then push it back into the block until it bottoms on the cam. The grease should hold it from sliding down. Install the fuel pump and gasket paying close attention to the actuating lever going under the tip of the rod and flush to the block by hand pressure. You may need to rotate the crankshaft if the cam stopped at the high point making the rod stick out more. Then install the pump bolts and tighten. Mancini has pump rods if you need one. Don't forget to put the pipe plug back in.  :bigsmile:
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Fuel Pump Question
« Reply #2 on: April 18, 2015 - 03:13:35 PM »
The rod actually was above the fuel pump lever before the pump was removed. It slid out of the block a bit and looks like its below the pump. The rod pushes on the fuel pump lever to make it work. Remove the Allen head pipe plug and pull out the rod, you can measure it for wear in length and diameter to see if it's usable or just buy a new one. Not expensive. Apply some sticky grease like axle grease, Lubriplate 105 etc to the outside of the rod, then push it back into the block until it bottoms on the cam. The grease should hold it from sliding down. Install the fuel pump and gasket paying close attention to the actuating lever going under the tip of the rod and flush to the block by hand pressure. You may need to rotate the crankshaft if the cam stopped at the high point making the rod stick out more. Then install the pump bolts and tighten. Mancini has pump rods if you need one. Don't forget to put the pipe plug back in.  :bigsmile:

Thanks much!
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline 734406pk

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Re: Fuel Pump Question
« Reply #3 on: April 19, 2015 - 07:02:08 PM »
I hope it goes easy for you! Good luck!
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Fuel Pump Question
« Reply #4 on: April 19, 2015 - 10:55:17 PM »
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline 734406pk

  • Andy
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  • Posts: 1716
Re: Fuel Pump Question
« Reply #5 on: April 19, 2015 - 11:03:48 PM »
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive