Author Topic: Fuel pump contacting block  (Read 16544 times)

Offline msbaugh

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Re: Fuel pump contacting block
« Reply #45 on: May 08, 2015 - 05:30:26 PM »
Well Done Sir! :clapping: Does your fuel filter/vapor separator have a restriction orifice (.065")on the 1/4" return line? If not, or its too big, you can make one easily. Or you can remove the FPR and try running without it, checking the max fuel pressure.

The return flows so much it keeps pressure from building at the carb (with or without the regulator!)
How would you recommend making a .065" oriface with AN fittings? I think you're right, the restriction will help!
« Last Edit: May 08, 2015 - 05:33:05 PM by msbaugh »




Offline msbaugh

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Re: Fuel pump contacting block
« Reply #46 on: May 08, 2015 - 05:47:27 PM »
Maybe I'll figure out how to solder aluminum, I could Solder a AN fitting closed then drill with a .065 drill bit.

Offline 734406pk

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Re: Fuel pump contacting block
« Reply #47 on: May 08, 2015 - 09:02:33 PM »
One method that I've used was to get the right fitting, AN, pipe to hose or hose splice etc in brass. Then tap the ID and thread in a brass set screw ( with an internal hex). Drill out the set screw to .065 and install the restrictor. If its to big or small, you can remove the set screw and make another with the correction to zero in on the right one.
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive

Offline msbaugh

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Re: Fuel pump contacting block
« Reply #48 on: May 09, 2015 - 05:07:25 PM »
One method that I've used was to get the right fitting, AN, pipe to hose or hose splice etc in brass. Then tap the ID and thread in a brass set screw ( with an internal hex). Drill out the set screw to .065 and install the restrictor. If its to big or small, you can remove the set screw and make another with the correction to zero in on the right one.

You sir are a genius!! This makes for an easy way to adjust my restriction until I get the right fuel pressure... Now to find brass set screws hmmm... No one sells them in brass and I can only find them online by the 100s
« Last Edit: May 09, 2015 - 05:13:15 PM by msbaugh »

Offline Strawdawg

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Re: Fuel pump contacting block
« Reply #49 on: May 09, 2015 - 05:39:18 PM »
Possible, but I don't think this will help your situation. I've heard Aeromotive has an in-tank electric fuel pump that's fairly quite, but I haven't seen one. I have an electric pump in my Challenger and it sound like I have a blender going in the trunk. Not liking it, but no fuel delivery problems... :dunno:

If you use a gerotor type external pump, you can barely hear it run outside the car and nothing inside the car unless you have good ears...they last longer than the Holley noisemakers.  I think Holley does offer a gerotor style as well.

The composite wood spacers from Edelbrock and others offer more carb insulation than to the phenolic versions, as well

Offline msbaugh

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Re: Fuel pump contacting block
« Reply #50 on: May 09, 2015 - 07:31:25 PM »
If you use a gerotor type external pump, you can barely hear it run outside the car and nothing inside the car unless you have good ears...they last longer than the Holley noisemakers.  I think Holley does offer a gerotor style as well.

The composite wood spacers from Edelbrock and others offer more carb insulation than to the phenolic versions, as well

I'm familiar with the gerotor style pumps. Also know a good bit on the design difference between them and the typical gear driven and vane style pumps. I actually have a gerotor transfer pump on my cummins. It puts out a steady 15 psi with large 1/2" lines and has been very reliable. My only concern is bulkyness. If they're anything like the ones I've seen, I'm going to be tight on space, they're huge! I would need something compact as I'm not willing to give up my stock fuel tank
« Last Edit: May 09, 2015 - 07:33:48 PM by msbaugh »

Offline 734406pk

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Re: Fuel pump contacting block
« Reply #51 on: May 09, 2015 - 09:06:05 PM »
You sir are a genius!! This makes for an easy way to adjust my restriction until I get the right fuel pressure... Now to find brass set screws hmmm... No one sells them in brass and I can only find them online by the 100s

Mcmaster-Carr online. They have almost everything and the best service you can ask for. Measure the I.D. Of the fitting you are going to use and find the nearest tap size. Im guessing 10-32 or maybe 8-32 for a 1/4" hose barb. The brass set screw is easy to drill and almost self centering. Careful drilling .065 is a small drill bit. No genius here, just simple. Simple is my middle name ha ha!
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive

Offline 734406pk

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Re: Fuel pump contacting block
« Reply #52 on: May 09, 2015 - 09:25:51 PM »
If you use a gerotor type external pump, you can barely hear it run outside the car and nothing inside the car unless you have good ears...they last longer than the Holley noisemakers.  I think Holley does offer a gerotor style as well.

The composite wood spacers from Edelbrock and others offer more carb insulation than to the phenolic versions, as well

Thanks for the heads up. The Holley works well, but noisy. Loader than the exhaust! The motor brushes seem to wear out quickly on these electric pumps. I'm considering going to mechanical and might use the electric for a booster with a bypass valve if the electric fails. It's on the "list".
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive

Offline Strawdawg

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Re: Fuel pump contacting block
« Reply #53 on: May 09, 2015 - 11:43:58 PM »
I did not notice it being much larger than the Holley pump.  I mounted it in front of the tank to the sheet metal behind the rear upper seat back so that the bottom of the pump section was level with the bottom of the tank.  I mounted a large canister style filter beside it.