headlight switch and removing switch panel questions

[marc70challenger]

Well ... if it isn't one thing ... it's at least 2 more .... 

The headlight switch was always "loose" - it has now "fallen" inside the panel a bit ... so the unit floats when you move the toggle ...

Problem is, with that "play" in it now ... you can toggle up for parking lights .... but then toggle switch hits top of dash bezel .. so can't move it up one more notch for headlights.

I used to be able to gentle pull it out a little and get that last click up ... can't now as its too loose .. and don't want to force it anymore.

I searched threads on removing switch panel ... (most I found were about remove who dash) .... what  I found was people speaking of 4 screws ... I think I found 3 ... see pic below.

Not sure where fourth is .. or are there more.

And I am assuming once all screws are out you gently pry the switch panel face gently away and out (appears it fits in behind some of far left dash trim a skoshy).

Thanks for help!!!

Hopefully I can just tighten the fitting ... if its the switch itself ... I can't seem to find anyone that makes them now ... and NOS on ebay are like 250$ ... lol ...

[JayBee]

Remove the light bar and you'll find 2 screws under there. My switch panel doesn't have a screw where you have the arrow pointing left.

[marc70challenger]

Remove the light bar and you'll find 2 screws under there. My switch panel doesn't have a screw where you have the arrow pointing left.

Ah ... ya ... left arrow screw must be for trim or dash itself.

Thanks!!!!

I imagine when I remove the switch panel screws .. gently pull it out ... and I can get at switch panel itself on backside of dash face?

[JayBee]

Yep, with all 4 screws out it'll pull out with a bit of wriggling around, mostly to clear the dashpad. The wiring back there might be tight so expect that. When you put it back make sure ALL the connectors are well on each switch. Your headlight switch should be held in with 2 screws too.

[marc70challenger]

Yep, with all 4 screws out it'll pull out with a bit of wriggling around, mostly to clear the dashpad. The wiring back there might be tight so expect that. When you put it back make sure ALL the connectors are well on each switch. Your headlight switch should be held in with 2 screws too.

Cool ... thank you very much ... 

[blown motor]

When removing and replacing switch bezel be very careful not to scratch the gauge bezel.

[anlauto]

In my opinion...If you think it's "just loose" and the two screws that hold the switch to the mounting plate are there and just loose...I would reach up from behind with a stubby screw driver and just tighten the two screws....no sense taking the dash apart whatsoever  :2cents

I've replaced switches that way....It's ***** to start the screws, but if they're already there, should be a two minute job

[marc70challenger]

In my opinion...If you think it's "just loose" and the two screws that hold the switch to the mounting plate are there and just loose...I would reach up from behind with a stubby screw driver and just tighten the two screws....no sense taking the dash apart whatsoever  :2cents

I've replaced switches that way....It's ***** to start the screws, but if they're already there, should be a two minute job

Great idea ... and tried but couldn't get my hands in right position (especially not know exactly where I was ... lol ) and the vintage a/c hosing was added obstacle.

I just gone done removing switch panel (and fixing issues) ... which I would have had to anyway ... 2 issues:

1) Top left mounting screw had stripped out the mounting plate hole itself.  I was able to use small screw, lock washer and nut to attach top left mount to plate securely.

2) Switch mounting holes are not perfectly aligned with mounting plate and neither with the face plate.

I looked at whole mounting and bracket system for quite a while .... and measured what I could .... they were just all off enough to put center of toggle switch slightly up and to right inside the face plate opening ... just enough so unless you really forced switch up into final position (with toggle up tight against top of face plate opening) the lights wouldn't come on - and sometimes it would "pop" back into parking light position .... I bet the previous owner forced it up often enough to put enough pressure on top mounting screw to strip it off mount.

So I had to carefully grind down the top (12 o'clock to 3 o'clock) portion of the face plate opening (circular portion inside chrome rim) along with a small notch in the toggle itself.

Even with mounts secured, the toggle needed a smidgen more to go completely into "up" position for headlights and stay.

You really can't see these "customized" solutions (all being black and such) ... only thing you could catch is the center of the toggle itself is not centered in face plate opening .... c'est la vie ... the dimmer worked before and now, the wipers work and park ... and now headlights do ... I ain't messin no more in there .... 

Thanks for all help gang!!!!!


PS .. if you notice in pic above ... dimmer and wipers switches are pretty damn close to center of their face place openings ... headlamps in that pic its up and to right ... and not as much as it is when 2 mounting screws are tight ...