Author Topic: Alignment question  (Read 4375 times)

Offline leanburn

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Alignment question
« on: April 29, 2015 - 08:18:18 PM »
 I'm wondering if there would be an improvement in handling if I went from 2.7 degrees positive caster to 4 degrees?
 It seems to handle fine, just wondering if there's room for improvement. I have adjustable uca's




Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Alignment question
« Reply #1 on: April 29, 2015 - 09:33:32 PM »
yes the car will want to go straight & correct faster , this also put more load on the steering so you have more feel

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Offline crash340

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Re: Alignment question
« Reply #2 on: April 29, 2015 - 10:12:30 PM »
 :2thumbs:
Greg

73 Cuda
Brisbane, Australia

Offline leanburn

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Re: Alignment question
« Reply #3 on: April 29, 2015 - 10:34:10 PM »
Thanks. I had an alignment done yesterday and they told me the max they could get was 2.7.  I'm having a hard time believing this cause I ran with 4 last year.  I asked for all the caster they could get even if it was 5 - 6 degrees, they argued with me, said it wasn't necessary.  I haven't drove the car for over six months but I swear it was better last year. I just needed to make sure it wasn't in my head.

Offline HP2

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Re: Alignment question
« Reply #4 on: April 30, 2015 - 11:53:28 AM »
Ideally you would want to target a caster number that is equal to or slightly greater than the SAI of the  knuckles. In our cars that would put you out between 6-7* positive caster.

In addition to the benefits CP points out, high caster numbers also reduce the need for high static camber because it creates greater camber changes as the suspension moves up/down and right/left. So when you go into a corner hot, the outside tire will move into negative camber and the inside tire moves to positive camber and both tires will have greater tread contact, and grip, as a result. The softer your suspension and the more body roll you have, the more pronounced this effect will be and the greater benefit you get from it.

Offline CudamanTom

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Re: Alignment question
« Reply #5 on: April 30, 2015 - 12:42:45 PM »
Oh, I thought this thread was about the alignment of your avatar picture.  :poopoke: :smilielol:
1971 Cuda Vert 440-833 - (clone)
1971 Cuda 440-727 - (clone)


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Offline dodj

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Re: Alignment question
« Reply #6 on: April 30, 2015 - 01:10:02 PM »
SAI of the knuckle?  :dunno:
Scott
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2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
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Offline HP2

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Re: Alignment question
« Reply #7 on: April 30, 2015 - 02:45:47 PM »
Spindle Axis Inclination. Looking at the suspension from head one, the upper ball joint mounting point on the knuckle is inboard of the lower ball joint mounting point. This is the Spindle Axis Inclination, or king pin angle for the old school reference.

Offline leanburn

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Re: Alignment question
« Reply #8 on: April 30, 2015 - 07:15:25 PM »
Oh, I thought this thread was about the alignment of your avatar picture.  :poopoke: :smilielol:

Yeah, that one has me outsmarted

Offline dodj

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Re: Alignment question
« Reply #9 on: May 01, 2015 - 11:54:15 PM »
Spindle Axis Inclination. Looking at the suspension from head one, the upper ball joint mounting point on the knuckle is inboard of the lower ball joint mounting point. This is the Spindle Axis Inclination, or king pin angle for the old school reference.
Ah. OK. Gotcha
Scott
1973 Challenger  440 4 spd 
2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
Good friends don't let friends do stupid things. ........alone.

Offline shadango

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Re: Alignment question
« Reply #10 on: May 08, 2015 - 09:03:41 AM »
The fun part of this is taking this advice to a shop and having them actually DO it.....

These days few shops seem to be able to set alignment to anything but what their book says....and look at you like a nalien if you suggest a number  to THEM....LOL

IF a guy is to go to a shop, what should he say he wants to properly get it across?

I am getting new tires soon and it needs aligned....outside edge (about 3 inches of it) of front left tire is bald.......I dont trust the average garages but have to go somewhere.  I have adjustable strut rods which I think confuses some shops.  It has handled great though since my alignment a few years back.....but the tire tells the story I guess.
« Last Edit: May 08, 2015 - 09:08:45 AM by shadango »

Offline HP2

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Re: Alignment question
« Reply #11 on: May 08, 2015 - 09:23:13 AM »
That can be a challenge since so many shops these days use a toe and go mentality, and even then they may not toe both sides equally.

In simplest terms, you could ask for 2000-2005 Mustang specs. This is helpful if they aren't smart enough to override the settings their computer spits at them for OEM specs and give them a target to reach for. they most likely won't achieve the specs, but they are better than the original Mopar specs.

Another approach would be to see where the local drag racing guys go, particularly the fast Mustang guys. Drag racers usually want semi custom specs so any shop willing to work with them can take on settings outside the computer spec. Additionally, the really fast Mustangs have been using adjustable strut rods for decades and anyone familiar with those can adapt to a classic mopar pretty easily.

Offline crash340

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Re: Alignment question
« Reply #12 on: May 08, 2015 - 05:07:17 PM »
A lot of people on here do their own, it really is easy, a digital angle gauge off  fleabay and a piece of 1" square metal tube an inch longer than your rim diameter, a metal thread screw in each end set to the same height to span rim edge to edge. This is used to check camber. Now, wind in both uca rear adjusters fully in toward the engine, this will give you max caster you can get(still not enough with standard uca bushes so go offset if you can). Then adjust the front uca cam, in or out until you get the camber you want. To do this park the car anywhere, with a long straight level/piece of wood, place it from front tire to front tire or beyond place the angle gauge on it and hit zero to zero the gauge, then place it on the metal tube and place against your rim lips vertically and read the angle on the gauge, zero camber will be 90 deg, simply wind the front uca cam in or out to give you the setting you want.
As for toe, I have two pieces of 3/4 pine approx 26" long, two small tape measures that have the dumb end of each nailed to either end of one of the sticks, then I bungee cord tie this stick across the outside of the wheel horizontal as high as I can to allow the tapes to pass under the car to the other side, then I bungee cord tie the other piece of pine in the same outside position on the other wheel and with both tapes measure the difference front to back and adjust accordingly, done!. I can at anytime make quick checks and adjustments on any of a my cars anytime. No need to check caster as molars can't have enough.
Greg

73 Cuda
Brisbane, Australia

Offline shadango

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Re: Alignment question
« Reply #13 on: May 15, 2015 - 05:25:33 PM »
Well got new cobras yesterday and aligned today....went to a guy who was record mended by a
Mopar friends of mine......said the right aide was drooping so he adjusted ride height up by one half inch.....

Said camber on left side was way off.....said the strut rods govern that I think .....

He used stock specs more or less....seems to handl OK....not as heavy though as before.....

Of course my tires wore out the outer 2" to bald so.....

Guess I will try this for a while....

Only thing I can complain about is the steering wheel is slightly off center to the left when driving......but no pull or drift......last couple times it was aligned same off center deal..... :dunno:

Offline Bullitt-

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Re: Alignment question
« Reply #14 on: May 15, 2015 - 07:44:15 PM »

Only thing I can complain about is the steering wheel is slightly off center to the left when driving......but no pull or drift......last couple times it was aligned same off center deal..... :dunno:

Sloppy work just aggravates the crap outa me   :swear:  I've gone to asking them to set the steering wheel straight because if you don't they won't..
Wade  73 Rallye 340..'77 Millennium Falcon...13 R/T Classic   Huntsville, AL
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