Author Topic: Removing Brass/Brazing  (Read 2439 times)

Offline glovemeister

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Removing Brass/Brazing
« on: May 02, 2015 - 01:58:07 PM »
Have some brass I discovered in the drivers a pillar/window channel. Been sanding/grinding it down carefully trying to find an edge of what I assume is a patch, or using it to cover a bunch of holes.

Really worried about cutting through it too much and hurting the base metal.

I've arrived at two options 1st leave it alone, or 2 maybe use a torch to melt/scrape it out?

Any thoughts?
1971 Challenger RT




Offline roadman5312

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Re: Removing Brass/Brazing
« Reply #1 on: May 02, 2015 - 03:52:08 PM »
I think the factory used brass to tack panels together before the body went in the jig for spot welding.

Offline glovemeister

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Re: Removing Brass/Brazing
« Reply #2 on: May 02, 2015 - 03:56:05 PM »
I think the factory used brass to tack panels together before the body went in the jig for spot welding.

Such as "inside" channel on drivers a pillar  the full length, as well as coming out onto exterior surface?

I'll try to put a pic up.
1971 Challenger RT

Offline roadman5312

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Re: Removing Brass/Brazing
« Reply #3 on: May 02, 2015 - 04:00:10 PM »
Not what I was thinking, that sounds like an old school repair.

Offline glovemeister

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Re: Removing Brass/Brazing
« Reply #4 on: May 02, 2015 - 07:24:23 PM »
Got it out. Was a brazed in piece like I was thinking.
1971 Challenger RT

Offline Topcat

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Re: Removing Brass/Brazing
« Reply #5 on: May 02, 2015 - 10:47:04 PM »
Brazing is really bad on sheetmetal.

You have to almost cook the sheetmetal to red hot for the brazing to adhere.

Sheetmetal becomes fatigued once it becomes overly hot.
Then it rusts at an advanced rate.

The molucules in the metal are changed is the reason why.
Mike, Fremont, CA.


Offline glovemeister

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Re: Removing Brass/Brazing
« Reply #6 on: May 03, 2015 - 02:59:04 PM »
Brazing is really bad on sheetmetal.

You have to almost cook the sheetmetal to red hot for the brazing to adhere.

Sheetmetal becomes fatigued once it becomes overly hot.
Then it rusts at an advanced rate.

The molucules in the metal are changed is the reason why.

Interesting. I noticed what is arguably the worst corrosion I've seen directly under/near edges of braze patch.

The spot it was patching was approximately 3-6" down from the top corner on drivers side window channel, and 8" or so long. Really shocked me as I have no idea how corrosion would manifest itself up there? I can see lower a-pillar area which is rusted out, but not up there. Really glad I decided to bite the bullet and get it out though.
1971 Challenger RT

Offline dutch

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Re: Removing Brass/Brazing
« Reply #7 on: May 03, 2015 - 04:03:17 PM »
I don`t think the red hot is the problem.  Welding creates more than red hot.  My guess is the problem lies in the type of flux that was used... no way to clean up in there.
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