3K rpm at 50 MPH... What gives?

[charlie challenger]

Well, It was a good day of working on the car.  I put in the kick down linkage, and learned how to adjust it, but I'm still turning about 3,000 at 50 MPH.
 
First I modified the bracket to fit my high rise manifold and Holley carb & figured out how to attach it to the throttle leaver.  Then I set the lever on the transmission all the way towards the engine, and tightened it down with the throttle in the idle position.  I took it for a spin and didn't notice a difference with it.  Then I adjusted it to an extreme, pushing the arm back to where I felt some resistance from the transmission leaver and tightened it down.  The car wouldn't even shift out of 1st doing 25MPH at that point   After driving around with my wrenches and hopping out to adjust it every once in a while I got it to shift from 1st to 2nd at about 18 MPH and from 2nd to 3rd at about 28 to 30.  Before I put the kick down on it definitely shifted too early, and now I have the peace of mind that my clutches aren't burning up...

But...  back to my real issue, on the highway it performs the same.  Doing 50 on the highway is not fun (or safe) I pushed it to 60 and was turning 3,500 rpm.  That's too much right?  Are there any other thoughts on what else it might be?  Could it be the yoke hanging out of the rear end?  I don't see how, but I don't know.  I'm at a loss.  The engine seems strong, and I made sure all my plugs were firing while timing it.  The engine pulls & will still keep going if I give it more.  I only have the petal down a bit.  The engine seems fine.

[charlie challenger]

For those who like pics like me

[RCCDrew]

Gotta be torque convertor or tachometer off. Fluid level right? Is it a factory tach?

[RCCDrew]

You sure they are 3.55s?

[roadman5312]

You sure they are 3.55s?

                    Beat me to it Drew   

[msbaugh]

Excessive convertor slippage maybe? Is the convertor new? A bad one with a high stall could do that. 

With the linkage... at WOT i like having the line pressure about 1/4" from being all the way back. I just adjust the arm till it's about there and it works well

[anlauto]

Are you certain of your rear axle gear ratio ?

[charlie challenger]

Many moons ago this project started - 2007.  I was 26.  I had an older/wiser co-worker helping me with everything.  The car came with a 318, but we got a 440 & trans off craigslist.  I had the engine bored, crank shaft polished & new rods & pistons.  The transmission was rebuilt with a shift kit & the torque converter has a 2500 stall.  We put 3.55 posi in it, and had a drive shaft made (apparently too short).  Then I lost my job so it sat... and sat... till about 3 years ago.
 
I just took it to the guy who rebuilt the transmission yesterday and I told him about 3k at 50 MPH and I told him he could drive it to see what I'm talking about, but he refused since it didn't have the kick down attached.  He told me 2 things. He said the shaft was too short and that would cause shuddering (which it does), and he did not like the fact I am using rubber hoses for the trans cooling fluid & recommended steel lines instead of having them burst off onto red hot exhaust.  Good advice.  He seems trustworthy enough.  but as far as my issue he said the gears in the back & tire size is what determines the rpm/mph.

The web site http://vexer.com/automotive-tools/speed-rpm-calculator says that even with a 4.10 ratio I'd be doing close to 65 at 3,000 rpm.  The tach is not original and what I'm using is attached, but even if it's off some all I know is that I'm pushing the engine when I'm on the high way and getting passed by Escorts.  My thoughts are on the torque converter again.

[734406pk]

Many moons ago this project started - 2007.  I was 26.  I had an older/wiser co-worker helping me with everything.  The car came with a 318, but we got a 440 & trans off craigslist.  I had the engine bored, crank shaft polished & new rods & pistons.  The transmission was rebuilt with a shift kit & the torque converter has a 2500 stall.  We put 3.55 posi in it, and had a drive shaft made (apparently too short).  Then I lost my job so it sat... and sat... till about 3 years ago.
 
I just took it to the guy who rebuilt the transmission yesterday and I told him about 3k at 50 MPH and I told him he could drive it to see what I'm talking about, but he refused since it didn't have the kick down attached.  He told me 2 things. He said the shaft was too short and that would cause shuddering (which it does), and he did not like the fact I am using rubber hoses for the trans cooling fluid & recommended steel lines instead of having them burst off onto red hot exhaust.  Good advice.  He seems trustworthy enough.  but as far as my issue he said the gears in the back & tire size is what determines the rpm/mph.

The web site http://vexer.com/automotive-tools/speed-rpm-calculator says that even with a 4.10 ratio I'd be doing close to 65 at 3,000 rpm.  The tach is not original and what I'm using is attached, but even if it's off some all I know is that I'm pushing the engine when I'm on the high way and getting passed by Escorts.  My thoughts are on the torque converter again.

Well first you will want to varify your tach reading with another gauge. Second the trans you bought has a speedo gear in it calibrated to some unknown ratio rear axle. There are several ways to determine how to calibrate your speedo. One is to have a smart phone or gps and find your true speed, then adjust the speedo gear accordingly so you get a true reading. As far as the tach, not sure what you have so I don't know if it can be adjusted. Something is way off, if your getting passed Escorts. Torque converters are fluid couplings variable from almost 2:1 to almost 1:1 (non lock-up) and don't slip unless you are low on fluid. How does your trans fluid look anyway? It should be bright red, not brown/ black. Clutch pack slippage will fry the trans in seconds. Hope this is not the case.

[burdar]

When you adjust the kick down, hold the Carb at WOT and push the trans lever all the way to the rear....lock it down. That way you have full line pressure at WOT.

Also, your setup is very dangerous. The upper rod that attaches to the carb should NOT be attached with a bolt. There should be a spring that holds the rod against the throttle stud. If the trans linkage binds, your setup will hold the throttle open. You still have work to do with the kick down. I'll try and find a picture of what it should look like tomorrow.

[Katfish]

Go back to basics:
1) measure / look up specs for tire size
2) put car up on jacks and measure what rear gear you have
3) get gps app for phone and measure true speed
4) double check RPMs, get cheapie gauge from parts store.

All that checks out, then it has to be the converter.

[734406pk]

When you adjust the kick down, hold the Carb at WOT and push the trans lever all the way to the rear....lock it down. That way you have full line pressure at WOT.

That's what i do and it works fine!

[charlie challenger]

I didn't realize that the bolt was supposed to slide inside of that slot.  I've been adjusting it there and tightening it down all the way.  I'll get a spring for it & set that up right, and do the adjusting near the trans lever.  Thanks for pointing that out.  I'll adjust it all the way back at WOT.
The fluid level is good, and the fluid is just as red as when I put it in, so is that a good indication I didn't burn up clutches?

I like Katfish's suggestions of ruling things out, so I'll make sure I have my facts straight.  I'll get the true MPH, true RPM, & see if I do in fact have 3.55s.  I'll have someone pace me on the high way and see how fast I'm really going, I'll borrow (buy & return) a tach from Autozone to see if mine is that far off, and I'll put it up on stands to make sure I do in fact have 3.55s.  I'll do all this and post when I get it done.  Thanks all for your thoughts up to this point.

[734406pk]

Another thought; Count the shifts and make sure the trans shifts finally into Drive. You can shift manually from 1 into 2 and then D to verify.

[charlie challenger]

It does shift through all 3 gears.  It shifts at 18 to 20 MPH & again at 28-30 MPH