No Compression -

[BS CUDA]

Do you have the external oil feed lines installed for the rocker shafts?

The external oil lines are installed.

Talked to a couple folks today and they are pretty certain that this is a cam timing issue. I will pull the timing cover off tonight and see if this is where I went wrong. Seemd pretty straight forward but...............

[734406pk]

Yes valve timing may be the cause. Also to consider checking: the piston valve notches. Indy heads use 2.19 intake valve heads where as the stock heads are 2.08. The valve pockets may be deep enough, but not large enough to have safe clearence to the larger valve o.d. It's hard to see in your pics but it appears that's the intake valve strike marks in the pistons is very close to the outer diameter of the existing valve notches. What was the valve to piston clearence when you checked with puddy? Indy heads use the long valve design so the pushrods lengths will need to be longer than average to non-Indy types. With the offset intake rockers and Max Wedge ports, these heads should make some awesome horsepower!

[BS CUDA]

Yes valve timing may be the cause. Also to consider checking: the piston valve notches. Indy heads use 2.19 intake valve heads where as the stock heads are 2.08. The valve pockets may be deep enough, but not large enough to have safe clearence to the larger valve o.d. It's hard to see in your pics but it appears that's the intake valve strike marks in the pistons is very close to the outer diameter of the existing valve notches. What was the valve to piston clearence when you checked with puddy? Indy heads use the long valve design so the pushrods lengths will need to be longer than average to non-Indy types. With the offset intake rockers and Max Wedge ports, these heads should make some awesome horsepower!

 Just discovered valve timing is likely the culprit as I installed the crank gear with the inner 0 on the keyway and lined that one up with the cam mark instead of the outer 0. Seems like quite a big mistake.
 Should have written down the measurements but I am certain the target was min .080 intake and min .100 on the exhaust - when we measured there seemed to be lots of give. Will def be checking and writing down the measurements when I get the heads back.
 Still no word on the extent of damage - hopefully tomorrow. I ended up taking them to Pro Stock where I purchased them as Randy has been a big help - even offered to come out here and take a look.

Old heads were Eddy's - but these Indys and cam should be a huge improvement when we get her going again.

[734406pk]

Yeh the cam timing looks way off. That sucks. I don't know how it ran for .5 miles. You are on the right track! Be sure to do another piston to valve check as it is all different after the cam correction. I believe the Edelbrock Performer heads use 2.14 dia intake valves, so make sure the piston notches have some extra room for the 2.19" Indy intakes. The devil is in the details...

[Chryco Psycho]

You are on the right track now

[734406pk]

I know this is water under the bridge now, but I try to use a degree wheel and dial indicator to verify cam timing to the cam specs. This method has saved me from many a "do over". Easy to check before the heads are on. Degree kits for sale at Summit Racing, Jegs etc. reasonably priced. If time permits, I would like to recommend this.

[BS CUDA]

I know this is water under the bridge now, but I try to use a degree wheel and dial indicator to verify cam timing to the cam specs. This method has saved me from many a "do over". Easy to check before the heads are on. Degree kits for sale at Summit Racing, Jegs etc. reasonably priced. If time permits, I would like to recommend this.

Seen a degree wheel kit @ the performance shop on Saturday prior to realizing the trouble the engine was in. I might go and pick it up - couldn't hurt - although likely just need to line up the right dots.

[BS CUDA]

You are on the right track now

Can't believe how busy the performance shops are right now (slight sarcasm) - still don't know the extent of the damage. Maybe tomorrow.

[mopar jack]

using a degree wheel will give you added insurance the cam is installed correctly and you won't have to worry if the the markings on the timing sprockets are correct and you can verify that the harmonic balance is true.

[jimynick]

Run #1 up to TDC, line up the dots so that they form a line that extended, goes through the centre of the cam and crankshafts and sprockets and you should be good. As for the valves, I'd take the new ones and put a dab of valve lapping compound on them and give them a spin in the head. That'll tell you if they're seating concentrically and if that checks out and the length is correct, I wouldn't worry too much about re-doing the whole valve job. I WOULD take one of the new valves and see how it fits into those reliefs, as mentioned AND, I'd turn the engine over by hand several revolutions to feel for any issues before I fired it back up. Use the old head gasket and re-do your putty check once you've got the cam back in to give yourself some peace of mind. Good luck 

[734406pk]

using a degree wheel will give you added insurance the cam is installed correctly and you won't have to worry if the the markings on the timing sprockets are correct and you can verify that the harmonic balance is true.

Yes exactly correct! Some extra time to perform, but good insurance. An ounce of prevention...if you have time.

[BS CUDA]

All great advice - thanks folks and keep it coming if there is more. I definitely have some time as the heads won't be done until maybe early next week.

[734406pk]

Run #1 up to TDC, line up the dots so that they form a line that extended, goes through the centre of the cam and crankshafts and sprockets and you should be good. As for the valves, I'd take the new ones and put a dab of valve lapping compound on them and give them a spin in the head. That'll tell you if they're seating concentrically and if that checks out and the length is correct, I wouldn't worry too much about re-doing the whole valve job. I WOULD take one of the new valves and see how it fits into those reliefs, as mentioned AND, I'd turn the engine over by hand several revolutions to feel for any issues before I fired it back up. Use the old head gasket and re-do your putty check once you've got the cam back in to give yourself some peace of mind. Good luck 

These days with CNC parts machining the tolerances are held so close, the valves are drop in ready. In the past I've spent time hand fitting new valves to the existing seats. Now a days,  "most of the time" theses parts are drop in ready. I still check them to cover my ass. (with lapping compound or Prussian Blue Dye).

[Chryco Psycho]

If you used Cometic gaskets you can re use them

[BS CUDA]

Heads were finished Saturday ($900.00) and running Sunday afternoon. Needs some tuning but feels fantastic. Of course now there is a timing cover leak at the bottom where it meets the oil pan - look at that maybe tomorrow.