Slack in timing chain

[msbaugh]

So I changed my fuel pump pushrod in my 440 BB. I can feel the timing chain if I stick my finger in there and it feels way too loose! I found this to be very odd as it seems to drive great!!? Should I pull the front end off and see if I need to replace the chain?

[CudamanTom]

So I changed my fuel pump pushrod in my 440 BB. I can feel the timing chain if I stick my finger in there and it feels way too loose! I found this to be very odd as it seems to drive great!!? Should I pull the front end off and see if I need to replace the chain?

If it's not a big deal, I certainly would. You don't want to wait till it does become a big deal, internally.
Engines will operate the same with some slack in the chain to a certain degree, but if too much slack develops and you get on it, your timing with the cam and the crank will shift. Not good.

[Chryco Psycho]

I usually judge by rotating the crank to see how many degrees the crank will move before the load of the cam is felt . 3 degrees no big deal

[cudabob496]

what about rotating crank and seeing when distributor rotor moves.

Under a timing light, if timing seems steady, might be okay?

[cudabob496]

should we get one of these??

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-5007709/

[OUTLAW]

you should be able to see how much slack is there with a timing light or turning the crank back and forth and feeling the free play in the chain and watching the timing mark. As for the chain tensioner goes, I put one in my motor when I rebuilt it 4 years ago and my chain feels good BUT it is a little noisy at times. (makes a noise similar to when the thrust plate is bad and the cam is walking back and forth in the block). Even a good quality chain will stretch some with high pressure springs and getting on it hard and backing off of it hard often. The only way to avoid it is a gear drive

[msbaugh]

Would slightly erratic timing at idle mean that the chain is too loose?  and is it normal to have some slack on the passenger side?

I'll do a couple of your tests first.  I don't want to remove the oil pan, balancer, radiator, etc. etc. if I really don't have to.  If I do I guess I'll see what I'm working with first and decide what needs to be replaced.  Would it be wise to replace both sprockets while I'm at it? I'll look at tensioners, oil slingers too but don't know what I have or how much room Is in there

I assume I can just put the engine at TDC on the balancer at #1 compression stroke, remove everything then put it back the way it was lining the marks on the sprockets like they were.  I don't plan on pulling the cam or tearing into it more than that

[734406pk]

Would slightly erratic timing at idle mean that the chain is too loose?  and is it normal to have some slack on the passenger side?

I'll do a couple of your tests first.  I don't want to remove the oil pan, balancer, radiator, etc. etc. if I really don't have to.  If I do I guess I'll see what I'm working with first and decide what needs to be replaced.  Would it be wise to replace both sprockets while I'm at it? I'll look at tensioners, oil slingers too but don't know what I have or how much room Is in there

I assume I can just put the engine at TDC on the balancer at #1 compression stroke, remove everything then put it back the way it was lining the marks on the sprockets like they were.  I don't plan on pulling the cam or tearing into it more than that

It is normal to have some slack in the timing chain. Do you have erratic timing at idle? That can also be a sign that the distributor has wear as well or broken/missing advance weight springs. If you go the replace timing chain route, you always change both sprockets and chain at the same time. There are also different quality chain/sprockets to choose from; Stock type Hi/Vo chain and triple roller (being stronger) etc. You might want to check out the gear drive system that was posted earlier. If you place the crank at TDC compression #1 cylinder, everything should line up.