QA1 K Frame

[73EStroker]

My car is a bear to steer when I floor it in 3rd at 60mph. Nearly torques over into the ditch on left.  Of course this issue is because of the sloppy steering box Dodges are known for. So my question is if I buy and install a QA1 K frame will it take a rack and pinion type steering box.  Or is it simply a retrofit using the old type steering box.

[brads70]

Try a trutrac rear end!  I have no idea about the QA1 k-frame?

[EbodyMod]

  I have the qa1 installed in mine and it is designed for the stock steering unit. I did use a unisteer rack and pinion setup but I will warn you the universal joints the used to get the shafts to line up is pretty sketchy.  I am debating in just ripping the rack out and installing a Firm Feel steering box. I have heard a lot of good things and it is actually cheaper than the unisteer rack

[GreenFish]

I thought about rack and pinion but I hear these new boxes are spectacular. Smaller than stock and quick ratio. they are a little pricey

http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/catalog/Mopar_Cars_196282-orderby_0-p-1-c-142.html

[HP2]

Torque steer problem would have me investigating issues in the rear axle housing alignment or leaf spring mounts and bushings.  Old mopar boxes have way too much assist, but aren't necessarily sloppy if they are adjusted correctly.

I'll second that the QA1 K is designed for the stock steering box, not a R&P. Converting to a R&P with the stock K frame will introduce bump steer and turning radius issues even though it corrects the over-assist and vague feeling. You'll trade  out established issues for new ones. Whether those new issues are less bothersome depends on personal preference and driving habits.

[73EStroker]

HP2 yes I actually have a new set of Mopar bb springs that I have been lazy to install. The rear is a Dana 60 with SG so will do the springs and do the FF box.

[73restomod]

I would look at alignment/worn leaf spring bushings, thrust angle alignment is what your after if everything thing is sound as far as bushings, bolts mounts.

[GreenFish]

By the way, speaking to the actual topic of the thread

I'm totally sold on the QA1 Kframe. I like the idea of keeping the torsion bars and steering box vs something like the RMS or Magnumforce conversions. Especially for cars that have no intention of ever going to the track.

[brads70]

By the way, speaking to the actual topic of the thread

I'm totally sold on the QA1 Kframe. I like the idea of keeping the torsion bars and steering box vs something like the RMS or Magnumforce conversions. Especially for cars that have no intention of ever going to the track.

I'm left wondering what a QA1 k-frame will do for you that a stock one won't? The stock k-frame weights next nothing anyhow?  Stock k-frames are still pretty plentiful, especially with people switching over to aftermarket set ups.
If it's weight reduction your after lots of other ways to shed weight and add performance ?

[GreenFish]

I'm left wondering what a QA1 k-frame will do for you that a stock one won't? The stock k-frame weights next nothing anyhow?  Stock k-frames are still pretty plentiful, especially with people switching over to aftermarket set ups.
If it's weight reduction your after lots of other ways to shed weight and add performance ?

Well, going by the firm feel website. They want $450 for a reinforced K frame and $125 to powder coat it. (not sure if there is a core charge as well). You still have a 40 year old K frame. Also add an other $50 if your Kframe didnt have sway bar mounts. For the same price you can have the brand new QA1 K frame that gives you more clearance and room to work. not to mention the elevated cool factor

[brads70]

I mean no offence to you REALLY!    but that's what's wrong with this hobby and  racing . Everyone want to pay someone else to do the work and then bolt it on? I realize lots of people can't weld . I'd say go buy/borrow a welder and in a weekend of practising you could weld up the k-frame yourself. The additions to a k-frame are not " structural" meaning if they fall off nothing bad is going to happen. Most skills on working on cars just need some confidence to just try! Once you figure out welding you will be surprised how often it comes in handy working on our pride and joys!
Besides  you have to admit ANYONE including a monkey could lay down better welds that Ma Mopar did back in the day! 
I didn't powder coat mine, just a plain old rattle can after I wire wheeled it with a disc grander. We don't drive these everyday or in winter, the paint will hold up for many many years!

[GreenFish]

I mean no offence to you REALLY!    but that's what's wrong with this hobby and  racing . Everyone want to pay someone else to do the work and then bolt it on? I realize lots of people can't weld . I'd say go buy/borrow a welder and in a weekend of practising you could weld up the k-frame yourself. The additions to a k-frame are not " structural" meaning if they fall off nothing bad is going to happen. Most skills on working on cars just need some confidence to just try! Once you figure out welding you will be surprised how often it comes in handy working on our pride and joys!
Besides  you have to admit ANYONE including a monkey could lay down better welds that Ma Mopar did back in the day! 

Please, no offense taken at all. I get what you are saying. I'm just comparing apples to apples of off the shelf availability. Your stuff looks awesome. I love what you've done. I read your build thread and I'm impressed with your skills.  There is also the time factor. having the time, equipment and skills as well to to do. 

[HP2]

According to Kevin Wesley, the QA1 frame is a little bit lighter and a little bit stiffer than the stock K.

[GreenFish]

According to Kevin Wesley, the QA1 frame is a little bit lighter and a little bit stiffer than the stock K.

I have no reason to doubt that. I like the tubular k member and recognize that its PROBABLY a waste of money for me especially since i don't intend to track the car. That being said its not like I have the cash to buy it now anyway. I have a wish list a mile long and it not any where near the top at this point.

Converting BACK to power steering is high on my list right now. I think the borgeson box is the route i'm taking. Ill probably add a hydroboost brake system as well since I converted that to manual years back as well. I'm older now and more interested in ride comfort than going fast in a straight line like i used to be in my 20's

[73EStroker]

 Ill probably add a hydroboost brake system as well Greenfish PM me when you want to do the hydraboost as I have all the aeroquip numbers you need to do a professional but budget install using a straight flange mount Astro van hydraboost