Ok now what - lost ALL electrical

[BS CUDA]

I'd be looking hard at the cutoff switch & the connection to it back to the battery.

I'll pick up a new switch in the morning - swap it - if it still doesn't power up then i'll finish the ammeter bypass. After that who knows. Gets full power beyond the switch to the starter though. Perhaps it is the post 0n the disconnect that delivers the power too the alt that is gone bad.

[734406pk]

I'll pick up a new switch in the morning - swap it - if it still doesn't power up then i'll finish the ammeter bypass. After that who knows. Gets full power beyond the switch to the starter though. Perhaps it is the post 0n the disconnect that delivers the power too the alt that is gone bad.

It sounds like the alternator feed terminal on the remote switch is bad. You can temporarily connect the alternator feed wire to the same terminal as the 2/0 starter feed terminal. They both switch on/off at the same time. The alt feed wire appears to be used to supply power to the vehicle, which is ok if there is a fuse link used in the circuit. I would double check the ground connections also since your in there. All that extra horsepower might have shook something loose...

[BS CUDA]

It sounds like the alternator feed terminal on the remote switch is bad. You can temporarily connect the alternator feed wire to the same terminal as the 2/0 starter feed terminal. They both switch on/off at the same time. The alt feed wire appears to be used to supply power to the vehicle, which is ok if there is a fuse link used in the circuit. I would double check the ground connections also since your in there. All that extra horsepower might have shook something loose...

Yup let an electrical issue intimidate me again. Bad remote switch - swapped it and works perfectly fine again. Trailer hooked up to the truck and waiting to load the car for track night. Guess we'll see what these heads and cam added. Hoping at least mid 11's - likely a conservative estimate.

[crackedback]

Video of the track runs coming?    Good luck with the ET chasing.

Your cutoff switch was bad?   Not sure how you have it wired.  I stay away from running starter load through them. Especially if you have to crank for more than a short blip of the key.  The contacts get smoked.

[734406pk]

Congrats on the repair! That's quite a car to hit mid 11's! Good luck at the track, post results!

[ShelbyDogg]

When I had my race car, with battery in the rear, main battery cable went to the starter lug on the starter.

I then had 2 wires running up to the starter relay,
1. a #10 from the big starter post to the big stud on the starter relay (which also supplies the fusible link).
2. a #10 from the starter solenoid to the starter relay to energize the starter in start position.

Your #1 wire is bad or not connected.
That is if you are still using the fusible link at the starter relay, which sounds like you are.

[BS CUDA]

Congrats on the repair! That's quite a car to hit mid 11's! Good luck at the track, post results!

Used to run 12.0 all day with the Eddy's - should be a lot quicker now.

That day will have to wait for now until the leaks are solved.

[734406pk]

The timing chain cover leak is still there? Or something elase?

[BS CUDA]

The timing chain cover leak is still there? Or something elase?

 Still there - and I used a ton of the "right stuff" sealant, There is also a rear main drip as well as a transmission leak that has been there a while. Some times I over react - but I have just had enough leaning over the fender. It seems to properly fix the bottom timing cover leak the oil pan gasket should be completely replaced, and while there the rear main.................. It only took about 4 hours to pull them both anyways - had some practice in the past.

Going to do the headlight relay upgrade, new rad support, fix the bulkhead connectors - all of which are in boxes in the garage. Going to settle a lot of little things that have amounted to a lot of frustrations over the years.

[734406pk]

Still there - and I used a ton of the "right stuff" sealant, There is also a rear main drip as well as a transmission leak that has been there a while. Some times I over react - but I have just had enough leaning over the fender. It seems to properly fix the bottom timing cover leak the oil pan gasket should be completely replaced, and while there the rear main.................. It only took about 4 hours to pull them both anyways - had some practice in the past.

Going to do the headlight relay upgrade, new rad support, fix the bulkhead connectors - all of which are in boxes in the garage. Going to settle a lot of little things that have amounted to a lot of frustrations over the years.

Yes that is frustrating! I agree! I'm confused as to why the timing chain cover is leaking with all the "Right Stiff" used. But anyway, you're aware of what's needed to complete the repair.post  any questions or problems as always. Good luck!

[BS CUDA]

When I had my race car, with battery in the rear, main battery cable went to the starter lug on the starter.

I then had 2 wires running up to the starter relay,
1. a #10 from the big starter post to the big stud on the starter relay (which also supplies the fusible link).
2. a #10 from the starter solenoid to the starter relay to energize the starter in start position.

Your #1 wire is bad or not connected.
That is if you are still using the fusible link at the starter relay, which sounds like you are.

Well here we go again!!! Out for a little test and tune with the new engine and trans installed and purring (roaring) like a lion and I decide to head out on the highway a bit and then "blah". Lost ALL electrical again - suspect the disconnect again but that will wait till tomorrow night.

Doesn't make sense - ran for about 3 years on the 1st switch and now 2 (maybe) in less than 100km's or maybe 40 starts.

Oh well - what would I be doing if I wasn't working on this car.

[BS CUDA]

Well here we go again!!! Out for a little test and tune with the new engine and trans installed and purring (roaring) like a lion and I decide to head out on the highway a bit and then "blah". Lost ALL electrical again - suspect the disconnect again but that will wait till tomorrow night.

Doesn't make sense - ran for about 3 years on the 1st switch and now 2 (maybe) in less than 100km's or maybe 40 starts.

Oh well - what would I be doing if I wasn't working on this car.

Update - disconnect failed, most exterior light bulbs blown, car now turns over but no spark. Could this be ammeter related, voltage regulator related? Going to try a new coil tomorrow but suspect the MSD 6AL may have also taken a hit. Cannot find any burnt connectors or other evidence of cause.

[ShelbyDogg]

Had my car running with headlights on, when I pulled the battery out to start another car. I was young and thought that it was okay since it was still running. I blew every bulb, my radio, and other stuff I can't remember. Had to drive it home with hi beams on. Running without a battery load caused the alternator to blow just about everything. You are going to have to test everything. You have at least 16 bulbs to start changing too.

[BS CUDA]

Another update:

Replaced coil - no go
Did ammeter bypass - no go - did find the bulkhead connectors as well as the ammeter connectors slightly torched
Checked pretty much all wires in engine bay - no go
Replaced Voltage Reg - no go
Replaced MSD ignition box and WOO HOO she's alive again.

Still unsure what caused this so still quite skeptical of going on any distance trips.

Strange thing maybe someone here can explain - my Innovate AFR gauge no longer works but was protected by a fuse which is still good. Thoughts???

[dodj]

Strange thing maybe someone here can explain - my Innovate AFR gauge no longer works but was protected by a fuse which is still good. Thoughts???

Look at what Rob posted. If your disconnect failed, that is the same as disconnecting your battery while running. That may have upped your system voltage if only for a short time. A fuse protects against high amperage, not high voltage. It would be possible a high voltage spike could have killed the electronics in the AFR. But.... you may have a loose wire instead. Check connections.