Author Topic: A new quarter (Read 5588 times)

Topcat · « **on:** May 18, 2005 - 07:46:58 PM »

have you checked out the new Mopar Muscle magazine issue? there is a 3 part series article about redoing a quarter. I was wondering if anyone has pics of when they did theirs. I'm a little afraid of doing it myself.
Yet, I know, that if I don't, I will pay through the nose to get it right.
I've used a mig welder before. I discovered that too much current will burn right through sheetmetal. is there a specific set up to mig. Should I forget about mig welding sheetmetal alltogether? Is oxy and Acetylene better? I guess my own answer is:go to welding school. So I guess what I'm after is where do I start if I were to do this on my own.

RUSTY Cuda · « **Reply #1 on:** May 18, 2005 - 08:55:23 PM »

Well I jumpped in & did em myself, I did put some waves on the top of the quarter, but I had the line cut for the flange at 3/4" so i was right there, a little lower & I probably would have been all right, used a mig W/gas at the lowest setting, spaced the welds, wet each down after, I still think I may have been pushing too fast, next car I'll do better!
here's a few pics, I have a lot if your lookin for something special ask, I might have it!
My friend(retired boidy guy) did some patches with my oxy act, but he didn't spot, ran a bead, a lot of heat! I think the mig is much better, I'm told TIG is even better, saw a vid on one, tiny beads, so has to be less heat buildup(& less grinding!) Rich.

RUSTY Cuda · « **Reply #2 on:** May 18, 2005 - 09:11:06 PM »

Opps those were big, will resize after I finish my story bout my first quater hangin party!
So I got a little impatient & got out the torch, well i got it too hot you can see theprimer burnt off on the top!
Back to spot & soak, ran a few short beads, I think they are what caused the overheat & the waves on top, gotta go real slow! & last my first application of lead & gringing it out, came out a little better the second try!
It's a lotta work, but mann the feeling seeing some new skin on the car was awsome! Rich.

Topcat · « **Reply #3 on:** May 18, 2005 - 10:13:38 PM »

You are awesome Rusty. :worship: You just brought my confidence level of doing it myself up 70 percent. Yes, Mig work is actually pretty simple. I agree, must have the argon gas. Now, this is where I stand. I have the option of replacing the quarter frame. Then, putting a complete skin like you did.....OR wait till the new repop full piece quarters come out, I have a quarter, but it isn't very nice around the wheel area. I should mention that, the panel behind the back glass and the trunk floors need replacing too. The guy warped the back panel behind the glass right where it meets the quarter.. Now it's either replace it or have a quarter inch of bondo where it meets the quarter.
BTW, these pics are saved. Thank you so much.

Topcat · « **Reply #4 on:** May 18, 2005 - 10:20:31 PM »

BTW, what is the black stuff after you removed the quarter? POR 15?

Steve · « **Reply #5 on:** May 19, 2005 - 06:52:09 AM »

If you have a lot of metal work to do, say around the trunk lip or the sail panels, putting on full quarters is probably the way to go. I didn't want to wait for the full quarters and had to do a LOT of fabrication in those areas. But don't fool yourself into thinking that a full panel job is going to be easier than a skin. On the other hand, doing the full panel is going to require less finense since you are basically going to be doing spot welds as opposed to full seams. The key to keeping the warping down is to space the welds and simply walking away after 2 or 3 welds are done so that things can cool. I spoke with a local restoration shop guy who basically said that he would wait hours between welds. Of course, he had other jobs to work on in the mean time.

MIG setup is critical. Also, buy good .025 wire. Clean both sides of the metal on both pieces prior to welding. Your welds should penetrate through the metal. If you end up with globs on top of the metal, your heat is too low.

Wrencher · « **Reply #6 on:** May 19, 2005 - 09:12:08 AM »

I struggled trying to decide whether to use skins or full quarters on my Chally. I decided that I would be better off replacing the full quarter due to only needing spot welds around the edges instead of a full welded seam running the length of the quarter based on my welding skill. I havent' replaced the quarters yet, still working on the floors and frame rails to get my confidence up.

RUSTY Cuda · « **Reply #7 on:** May 19, 2005 - 03:41:31 PM »

Then I definatly went too fast!� I was spacing em bout every 8" ,wet down & hit the next, front to rear & then next to them, front to rear, etc etc etc.
If the new full quarters are made well I would say that's the ticket, the cuda repros are way off, too much metal at the door & wheel lip, short in the rear , lower rear body line is no where near where the originals were & I had a lot of trouble lining up the rear valence.

I have a tough decision on the 74, I have a set of repros that came with it, I'd like that car to come out better than the 73(doing the best I can but its my first & there are defects) Hope I have learned enough to have fewer & smaller ones on the next car! But pieces on hand as opposed to spending ? what bout 1400 for 2? is gonna be a hard one!� :

:
I think they repro the rear panel(behind the window) so then you just work the spot welds!
The Black stuff is POR 15, I went a little nuts the whole car is coated inside & out, but alas I've been told that the outside part may not have been a good idea(adhesion & chipping problems down the road) time will tell. Rich.
Steve, do my globs look to big, seemed like I had a lot of grinding to do on there? Rich.

Topcat · « **Reply #8 on:** May 19, 2005 - 03:56:14 PM »

I only need to do one quarter on my car. The drivers side. The passenger side is perfect. It is clear to me now, to keep waiting until the new quarters come out. I 'm about to move my project to a huge 5 bay garage that has a hoist, spray booth and a 2 stage compressor. now all I need is a good mig welder. This week-end, I'll be going up to see this place my friend just bought. I'll be taking pics of the shop and the quarter that I was considering putting on.
I hear that weld thru primer is also a good idea to use where you are going to do a butt weld. For example where the quarter meets the body. BTW thank you also Steve and Wrencher for your input also.

Topcat · « **Reply #9 on:** May 28, 2005 - 09:33:18 PM »

Today, I had 360madness and his buddies over to take a look at my car and the left rear quarter. He recommended that I Cut off the one on now and have a body shop set up the new one and tack it in all the corners. Then, I finish it once it's set. The a$$hole who put it on years ago, used a brazing to connect it. Thus too much heat screwed it up every place it is supported.
On another note, my friend who I was supposed to meet last week to see the new shop hasn't invited me up to see the new shop. he knows I want to get my car there to start working on it. He has 5 kids, so I won't pressure him or beg to get me in there.

Just wait till he calls I guess.

RUSTY Cuda · « **Reply #10 on:** May 29, 2005 - 09:36:46 AM »

Lookin at that I would think the new full guarters are the ticket, then you can remove most of the bad work, now I'm kinka glad they used putty & pop rivits on mine, was easy to get rid of! Good luck, thew one thing I have learned, you CAN fix just about anything, just takes time & patience!� ;)Rich.

Topcat · « **Reply #11 on:** June 02, 2005 - 11:33:40 AM »

Well, a little bit of good news to start the day. I just talked to my friend who purchased the new 5 bay shop.
He has assured me that he and I will be getting my car up there. He has a car trailer already, but he needs to put new boards in before we can start to move my car and one other. The other car is a 71 AMC Javelin, Mark Donahue with a 454 blower.
I'm anxious to start on my car. But even if I were to start now, I would have to stop until the new quarters come out.

VPOINTCUDA · « **Reply #12 on:** June 03, 2005 - 08:34:05 PM »

I'm doing a '73 cuda and also need to replace the rear quarters. When I was replacing the floors, I noticed that the skins had been replaced sometime in the past. The problem was that whoever did them didn't paint the inside and after the car had sat ( from june of 1992 until june of 2002, when I rescued her) the windows down, I found them rusting from the inside out. I'm trying to decide on full quarters or just re-skinning them again. I used a mini-mig with 75% , 25% argon , c02 mix gas and .024 "wire at a low setting and the floors and trunk extensions came out great.
Has anyone dealt with Year One ? I see that they have skins, are they good?
I also have to replace the rear valance and trunk lid .

Steve · « **Reply #13 on:** June 04, 2005 - 06:29:03 AM »

I believe that the skins are all from the same supplier, so it doesn't matter where you get them.

Latest rumor is that Goodmark may scrap production of the full quarters due to low demand!

Plum6Pak · « **Reply #14 on:** June 04, 2005 - 07:23:14 AM »

Hey TC, the piece between the window and trunk isn't bad at all. I got mine from Paddock (gave an arm and a leg for shipping!) Be sure to buy one of those inverted spot weld drill bits, once you get it out and cleaned up just take your time spot welding everything back together as already stated, just hit a few and cool, hit a few more, cool etc. Here's my new one in place but don't have any pics of the old one.
Just don't ever ask me how to repair a roof.

:madvibe: :gripe:

:mad:

Author Topic: A new quarter (Read 5588 times)

Topcat

A new quarter

RUSTY Cuda

Re: A new quarter

RUSTY Cuda

Re: A new quarter

Topcat

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Topcat

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Steve

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Wrencher

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RUSTY Cuda

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Topcat

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Topcat

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RUSTY Cuda

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Topcat

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VPOINTCUDA

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Steve

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Plum6Pak

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