Clutch doesnt seem to disengage

[Bluemonster71RT]

I did my engine break-in yesterday and after that was done I just wanted to check and see how the clutch was. I pressed the pedal and it felt good but as I went to shift into first it was hard to go in. It did  though and the wheels were  turning as it went in and when I pushed the clutch back in the wheels were still turning. 

   Today I checked the fork adjustment rod and it is at max adjustment. So I thought that I may need a longer rod as I have a Lakewood bell and have heard that some require longer adjusters. BUT I noticed that the fork was also at max travel as it hits the back of the hole it goes through so that won't work. Everything I have in was on the car way back when it was driveable less the new disc and throw out bearing. 
    I read on here about the pp fingers being able to be adjusted but Google searches on that topic are nil and most say how those bolts are staked and should not be moved. I'm looking for some ideas here as I am at a complete loss. And boy oh boy do I not want to pull and install that trans again.

[Racer57]

Not what you want to hear............
If you don't find anything else wrong, check to see if the adjusting bolt in each finger is set real close to the same for each. I had a McLeod B&B that wouldn't release and after a lot of phone calls they finally admitted they had an issue. Said they would fix mine after I shipped it to them. I bought a different brand.

[dodj]

My first thoughts were, incorrect throw-out bearing and/or fork. But you say it is the same fork/bellhousing as before, so either a pressure plate issue as happened to racer, or throwout bearing issue. Unfortunately, as you know, either will be a pain to replace.
Would it be possible, if the pp bolts are not all tight, for it to bind up a bit? Maybe check them?

[Bluemonster71RT]

I was just in the garage and took off the adjuster rod and spring so I could get the fork boot off to see inside the bell. Things look ok for what little I can see. I re-installed and re-adjusted the rod and the pedal feels good, I mean I can feel it pressing the fingers in and I do get solid return. I know I shouldnt but if I were to "slightly" notch the bell where  the clutch fork hits at full pedal, maybe I can get an 1/8" more travel. Maybe that's all I need.
Good idea? bad idea?
 

[Bluemonster71RT]

I just re ran it and still the same problem. Is it possible that it may be incorrectly set shift rods also? Once I get it into first and get it out I cannot get it back in until the engine is off. just seems I need like a dog hairs more travel and it would be fine.

[Chryco Psycho]

Take a die grinder & clearance the hole , the fork should not be hitting the belhousing at full travel

[Bluemonster71RT]

Though I have no problem doing that, I cant seem to think why the fork is so far back. Same bell and parts, pressure plate, flywheel and the new throwout bearing is same height as the old one. Is there possibly some other adjustment I'm missing? I have read about people shimming the fork pivot. But it was working fine before. Maybe that could fix it. Being that grinding the back of the bell wont bother anything any way I'll do that and see what happens. 

[Bluemonster71RT]

I ground the back of the bell off enough to have the fork not hit. What happens now is it is still rough to go into 1st I cant get into any other gear. Though the rotor still spins then stops then spins. But now I hear a off and on grinding that is in sync with the spinning and stopping. So this could mean that it is almost grabbing or something else wrong. At best I have an 1/16th more to adjust out but this is not looking right.

[Bluemonster71RT]

I know what the issue is and I may have just fixed it as It was just working. The clutch fork angle was/is to far back (towards rear of car) so depressing the clutch, the fork would bottom out on the scatter shield before the fingers were fully depressed. Though these are all the same parts that were at one time working in it before they were not now.    SO what I then did was angerly yanked the fork out to see if maybe it came off or loose of the throwout bearing. I got it magicly back in and just to give a tad more flow I flipped one of the coned washers for the adjustment rod the wrong way and it seems that it was just enough to make it work. However it is at the extreme end of the adjuster rod. Not sure if that can dislodge. 

[Chryco Psycho]

use an A body adjuster , it is longer

[Bluemonster71RT]

use an A body adjuster , it is longer

I'll try that. Thoughts on adding 1/2" spacer to the fork mounting tab inside the bell to bring the fork angle closer to the front of the car?

[Chryco Psycho]

I have done that also , you can either build a block or extend the tab

[73EStroker]

I have been here too and I think I informed Racer what the fix was. Did you replace the pressure plate ? If so the finger adjustment is most likely the culprit. I had two bad clutches from McLeod. They adjusted one and returned it meantime I couldn't wait so bought another and bingo same issue. So now it works with the original adjusted one installed and I have a new useless PP sitting on my bench.
Just a check for you - if you can view the PP through the fork hole and see one (of three) of the finger adjuster screw and locknuts. If the screw portion is protruding out of the nut by approx 1.5 to 2 threads it is good. If it is flush or down inside a bit then that is the problem. Problem is the PP has to go and be placed in a jig to be adjusted. Other question is did you use the correct thickness clutch disk? I believe these are the places your issues are.

[Racer57]

I have been here too and I think I informed Racer what the fix was. Did you replace the pressure plate ? If so the finger adjustment is most likely the culprit. I had two bad clutches from McLeod. They adjusted one and returned it meantime I couldn't wait so bought another and bingo same issue. So now it works with the original adjusted one installed and I have a new useless PP sitting on my bench.
Just a check for you - if you can view the PP through the fork hole and see one (of three) of the finger adjuster screw and locknuts. If the screw portion is protruding out of the nut by approx 1.5 to 2 threads it is good. If it is flush or down inside a bit then that is the problem. Problem is the PP has to go and be placed in a jig to be adjusted. Other question is did you use the correct thickness clutch disk? I believe these are the places your issues are.

 

[Bluemonster71RT]

Ill take a look and see if I can get a glimpse of the adjusters.