416 Stroker Numbers

[bandt]

After a long battle with the car over the winter it's finally back together. I have some tuning and a couple of tweets but it's done.
Thought I would post some specs and numbers for reference.
Muscle Motors built the short block: Scat cast crank, Eagle Forged rods, Icon forged pistons (28cc dish)
RHS heads, with 2.02/1.62 int/exh. Valves, PRW stainless rockers.
Air gap intake, AED 750 carb,, Lunati 60404 cam .513/.533 lift, .234/243 duration@ .050
Run on Dyno-Jet - 480HP, 550FtQ. That's at the crank.

What are the estimates on power loss through a 727 and 8 3/4" rear end?  I'd really like to have an accurate rear tire #.

Thanks, Brian

Thanks as always to Neil for his advise along the way. So far I'm loving the cam.

[73restomod]

Hmm, I'll fire one off here, 355RWHP- 727s use a good bit of power up.

[moparman82]

I'd say 385 at the wheels, that would be about  20% loss

[bandt]

The dyno guy said the same. They are Chevy guys but he said the 727 are heavy and he guessed at about s 35% loss.

[jimynick]

Sounds like a sweet engine Brian and hopefully we'll get a chance to actually hear it! The general rule of thumb is 15-20% driveline loss; "heavy" TQ bedamned. Based on those figures, I'll guess somewhere between 375-400 at the wheels. Was that crank figure real or "calculated"? Ian 

[brads70]

Sounds like a "healthy" small block you got there! 

[bandt]

Yeah Ian that would be great to get together since we are like 10 minutes away. Sorry last year didn't work out, my car and I were on the outs since I was still trying to figure out the problems.

Thanks Brad, should be fun. Still can't keep up with you.

Brian

[Cruzin]

I have a very similar 416 build that you may find informative.  I'm running the Lunati 403 (one step down) cam, E-Heads/RPM Heads, Air Gap/750 Mighty Demon.  I've not dyno'd my motor however, I've run it at the track.  Perhaps you can use one of the drag strip calculators and get an idea of where you may be at. 

I'm located in Tucson, AZ and the track's at 3000 ft elevation.  Also, I run 3:91 gears, 9.5"/28" slick and a 3600 Dynamic Converter.  I'm at 12.4 /106mph and with better '60, (best is a not-so-impressive 1.80) feel 12.0 - 12.2 is conservatively obtainable with this configuration.       

From what I understand, dyno # can vary, but the times you put down at the track will likely provide you a better indicator of the  power you really are making, once you get it dialed in.
 

[Chryco Psycho]

Awesome # s !!
 The 727 actually has less moving parts so I doubt it loses much power .
 Converters do eat power & driveline loss around 20% sounds close
 Drag strip # are not really  more accurate as there is a lot of variables there too , traction , shift point RPM but MPH can be somewhat more accurate 

[bandt]

Cruisin,

Our combinations are very similar. I'm not running as much converter but a 4:10  gear  I'd like to get to the track this year maybe in September. Toronto Motorsports has a Mopar day the second Sunday. My only concern is I'm running Mickey Thompson et streets and making enough power to start breaking parts. I'd like to trailer it down just in case.

Neil,

Thanks. Muscle Motors builds a street crate motor with the same parts. Only difference is hypereutectic pistons comp cam and an 830 carb. They rate that motor at 450 and 500. The 704 cam sounds great at idle and performs well with this combination.

Brian

[dfrazz]

Thanks. Muscle Motors builds a street crate motor with the same parts. Only difference is hypereutectic pistons comp cam and an 830 carb. They rate that motor at 450 and 500. The 704 cam sounds great at idle and performs well with this combination.

Brian

Please post a video of this great car so we can all see and hear! 

[Cruzin]

Originally I had a 20 year old B&M 2400 Holeshot converter, prior to ordering the 9" Dynamic.  My old B&M 2400 worked surprisingly well too.  At the track, the new converter knocked off about .20 -.30 and dropped 200-300 rpms at 60 mph.

I think you will be pleasantly surprised with how responsive your combination will be once you get it setup and dialed in.

I hear-ya.  I'd rather go a little slower and NOT breaky-parts...

[bandt]

I'm out of town but I will try and get a short video together at least of the car at idle, if anyone is interested. Currently I am having the carb serviced and need to replace the clutch set up on the fan. Car is still getting hot while idling. I just replaced the rad with a 22" 4 row Champion, didn't help. I'm sure the clutch unit is not working properly.
The converter is a 3000 stall. Cam power curve is 2200/5500. I think it should be ok.

[bandt]

Thought I would update and give some credit.

I can't say enough about AED carburators. There customer service is by far the best I have ever encountered. Above and beyond. Jeff is very knowledgable guy. There carbs are a little more money but well worth it.
  That being said on the other end of the spectrum is PRW, there customer service is non existent. Without getting into a lot of detail I had some problems with there stainless rockers and shafts. After months of back and forth and shipping them back to PRW (at my expense), the resolution was for me to just buy another set and hope they were better. Apon recieving the new set there were parts missing from the kit, and a shaft needed replaced because of a section was to large making the rocker hang up.
After this I am willing to pay a little more for something if it means that company will back up it up with some sort of service.

Brian

[Denison636]

I will post my dyno numbers on here after I get my 416 done. October 2 I am set up to go. A little different build but still a 69-340 motor