ride wont fire

[acudadude]

last pull coil wire out of dist cap and lay it on the valve cover about 1/4'' away and crank over ck for spark?

[1 Wild R/T]

With the key in the start position the coil is feed through ign 2 which should be higher voltage...   In the run position it gets power through ign 1 which is the main power through the ballast... Single element ballast sends 12v during crank, dual ballast lower crank voltage too just not as much as in the run position...

['Cuda Hunter]

Not sure where to check voltage at the ballast resistor. 

This was the reluctor gap.  I have changed that now obviously.  That was very far out from where it should have been.

['Cuda Hunter]

Can you test red wire that goes to ballast for voltage with a meter or test lite and post findings. Then can you test coil + side for volts or test lite this of course is done with the key or switch in the on position . Last can u remove dist cap and see if the rotor spins when u crank over

Ballast resistor red wires connection.   6.25 key on
                                                       5.5   with bypass button starting starter
                                                       9.5  with key turned to starter and bypass button on

Coil positive gives me 1.16    during starter position on and bypass button on

['Cuda Hunter]

last pull coil wire out of dist cap and lay it on the valve cover about 1/4'' away and crank over ck for spark?

checked that last night.  No spark.

['Cuda Hunter]

rotor turns.  It's in a different position every time I have removed the distributor cap.

['Cuda Hunter]

I plug a spare distributor into the plug and spin the shaft with my fingers to check for spark. No spark, change out ECU.   Do all this after making sure ECU connector and pickup connectors are tight.

Good idea.  probably going to be in the mix here soon.

['Cuda Hunter]

See this website for trouble shooting
http://www.fourforty.com/techstuff/ignition.html

thanks, that is a cool bit of information. 

[acudadude]

Your not getting 12v to the red wires on the ballast..... for a quick test can you remove the + wire on the coil and hookup a temp jumper wire to the coil + side and  the other end to the + battery post, do a start test see if u have spark

[1 Wild R/T]

FWIW my preferred tool for checking voltage/signal at coil is a test light, check on the negative side, should light the light key on engine off not cranking.... Light should pulse while cranking... If it doesn't pulse the magnetic field created by the primary winding of the coil never collapse so the secondary electrical pulse (the spark) is never induced..  If the light lights you have voltage, if it pulses but no spark, coil is bad, which we are pretty sure isn't the case cause you've swapped it... No pulse could be ignition module which you've swapped, distributor signal which I consider suspect or wiring which could also be your issue.. That reluctor (the spiked metal piece in the distributor) looks crusty.... Unplug the small two wire connector at the distributor, take your meter, set it to millivolts probe those wires from the distributor while cranking you should see .9-1.4 millivolts.. If you do the look at the wiring if you don't swap the distributor..

['Cuda Hunter]

Your not getting 12v to the red wires on the ballast..... for a quick test can you remove the + wire on the coil and hookup a temp jumper wire to the coil + side and  the other end to the + battery post, do a start test see if u have spark

No, not 12v at the red wires on the ballast. 

I put a jumper wire to coil.  12v at coil exit wire.  When in starting position I get 10v

No spark

['Cuda Hunter]

FWIW my preferred tool for checking voltage/signal at coil is a test light, check on the negative side, should light the light key on engine off not cranking.... Light should pulse while cranking... If it doesn't pulse the magnetic field created by the primary winding of the coil never collapse so the secondary electrical pulse (the spark) is never induced..  If the light lights you have voltage, if it pulses but no spark, coil is bad, which we are pretty sure isn't the case cause you've swapped it... No pulse could be ignition module which you've swapped, distributor signal which I consider suspect or wiring which could also be your issue.. That reluctor (the spiked metal piece in the distributor) looks crusty.... Unplug the small two wire connector at the distributor, take your meter, set it to millivolts probe those wires from the distributor while cranking you should see .9-1.4 millivolts.. If you do the look at the wiring if you don't swap the distributor..

back in a few. 

['Cuda Hunter]

Test light on negative of coil. 

Key on.  light comes on
Key turned to start and button pushed.  Light gets brighter but no strobe.

[acudadude]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZX3MyBkMvA

['Cuda Hunter]

thanks for the video. 
However I am trying to get my digital Vantage machine to go to millivolts.
It might do it on it's own.

I plug my vantage on to the coil side of the two distributor wires.  Turn the key to the on position.   

I get .105 with my vantage and with a standard multimeter put on the 2 position I get something like .11 or .12

What does this tell you?