ride wont fire

['Cuda Hunter]

I have the mt2400 vantage.

http://buy1.snapon.com/products/diagnostics/Vantage.ASP

['Cuda Hunter]

Just a side note.  My passengers side brake light and my passengers side fender top blinker stay on when the key is turned to the on position.

The positive battery cable gets a little bit of heat build up at the terminal on the wire.

[acudadude]

I think he wants u to test those wires from the dist while you crank it over and then ck millvolts while cracking

['Cuda Hunter]

Ok, I plugged the wires back together on the distributor.

put my leads into the rubber and cranked the motor.

With key on I get . 06   
When I crank the starter and turn the key I get .12

I might have gotten one sudden surge of spark as the motor sounded like it might have thought about sparking.  But only one brief moment and nothing to show of it.

[Bullitt-]

Just a side note.  My passengers side brake light and my passengers side fender top blinker stay on when the key is turned to the on position.

The positive battery cable gets a little bit of heat build up at the terminal on the wire.

just read this post about lights staying on issue found   http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=107585.0;topicseen

['Cuda Hunter]

ECU wire test.

Dark blue with yellow stripe to number 1 on the ecu. 

Key on position- 10.5
Key on run position 8
Key on run and starter button pushed - 6.5

So it appears that I am not getting enough juice to the ecu to start the spark.

Would the seatbelt interlock switch be the culprit?

['Cuda Hunter]

So I pushed the reset button that is on top of the interlock module and it made a definite reseting type noise inside itself.

Tried again and no start. 

Removed the wires from the module and still the same thing.

My battery is down to 11.86 so I put it on the charger and I'm gonna go get some dinner and try again.  Maybe the battery doesn't have enough juice now to work through everything.
Since I'm not getting enough juice to the ecu I'm going to say that my battery needs to be charged and then the car will start.  Ha Ha

['Cuda Hunter]

just read this post about lights staying on issue found   http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=107585.0;topicseen

Thanks for the link Wade.  Figures I have not taken the time to read that thread as I don't have that type of a problem.  But apparently I do.  I will read it when I get a minute.

[acudadude]

From all this so far points to a short to ground somewhere in the main harness or bulkhead connector . Time to start checking all connections

['Cuda Hunter]

ah yes, the Myriad that wade was talking about.   

Time to start fixing wires

[1 Wild R/T]

Sorry I left for awhile, believe it or not there is life outside the internet....

I think he wants u to test those wires from the dist while you crank it over and then ck millvolts while cranking

Correct, The leads from the distributor not the leads that go to the ignition module...

The pickup coil (stator) pictured about creates the low voltage signal that triggers the module... The module turns that into the ground side pulse that causes the coil to fire the high voltage spark....

If your concerned about the voltage temporarily jump 12v from the battery to the + side of the coil..

BTW I grabbed the schematic off the net, I didn't notice the extra balls & Holley projection add-on... Ignore the extra stuff & the schematic shows the circuit..

['Cuda Hunter]

http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=3424.0


That website is packed with information. 

[73440]

http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=3424.0


That website is packed with information.

Great link, thank you.

['Cuda Hunter]

somebody on here gave it to me.  I think.  i couldn't find the original post.  But it's a great read and diagnostic tool.

[HP_Cuda]

Wow posting this stuff only adds to the confusion which is completely lame.

Two ballast resistors and a powerbar, plenty of better examples out there.

Jeesh!

Sorry I left for awhile, believe it or not there is life outside the internet....


Correct, The leads from the distributor not the leads that go to the ignition module...

The pickup coil (stator) pictured about creates the low voltage signal that triggers the module... The module turns that into the ground side pulse that causes the coil to fire the high voltage spark....

If your concerned about the voltage temporarily jump 12v from the battery to the + side of the coil..

BTW I grabbed the schematic off the net, I didn't notice the extra balls & Holley projection add-on... Ignore the extra stuff & the schematic shows the circuit..