Ignition switch pin

[jforest1]

Bullitt-,

Lesson #42 on why non-owner work will never measure up:  the 12R - Battery wire was fluctuating because it had a burnt out crimp connector (GRRRRRRRR POS connector and why when i do it i ALWAYS use a good heat shrink coupler with solder ring in it).

So problem #1 resolved.

However, measuring now at the ballast resister, still fluctuating voltage. 

So given your last post:

If the RED wire reads good & 4th does not then it pretty much has to be that connection or the ignition switch.

I went back under the dash at the steering disconnect, and the following is still fluctuating in voltage:
12BR - ignition switch 2

Since I measured on both sides of disconnect by tapping directly into the wire, that rules out the disconnect and means the immediate problem must be the ignition switch, correct?

JF

[Bullitt-]

Bullitt-,
So given your last post:
I went back under the dash at the steering disconnect, and the following is still fluctuating in voltage:
12BR - ignition switch 2

Since I measured on both sides of disconnect by tapping directly into the wire, that rules out the disconnect and means the immediate problem must be the ignition switch, correct?

JF

If your getting a good steady reading on the incoming RED wire but fluctuating on the outgoing wire then you've isolated the problem to the switch or wiring to the switch before the connector.   

[jforest1]

Name this part please.  Apparently the ****** who installed the ignition switch just spliced the wire into this obviously bad part.

JF

[jforest1]

Key in buzzer switch...

Oddly, even though it reads 25570 on the part, it has a peg and a hole whereas all photos of others selling it have 2 holes...

Doesn't appear this would contribute to the electrical problems I've been having with ignition, but from the wiring diagrams would appear to affect the horn and possibly the dome light coming on when the left door is opened...Can someone please confirm?

JF

[jforest1]

Okay well the peg is definitely needed as that is how it is seated properly.  So I soldered the wire back on and should be good now.

Now time to finish the ignition switch replacement...

JF

[jforest1]

ARGGGGGGGHHHHHH!!!!   

The one on the right is the one I was shipped.  The one on the left is the one from the car.  The dial on the new one was pressed on 180 degrees the working one, the switch only screws on one way. 

Ordering another I guess...

JF

[Bullitt-]

AHHH the culprit... Good Eye..   Wonder if the original switch was actually bad?
Thought about plugging it in & seeing what ya get? 

[jforest1]

Not yet.  Gonna try to go by summit racing tomorrow and exchange the switch.   Looking at their photo:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SMP-US88

The part I have is definitely 180 from how the dial should have been pressed on.

JF

[jforest1]

New switch in!  And installed!  And 14dcv!   

JF

[Bullitt-]

 

[jforest1]

Engine is still cutting out, but not as frequently.  Taking measurements again at the ballast resister:

During START the Lower Plug BROWN  should have about 12VDC,

12.1vdc in start position check,

When key released goes to RUN the  upper plug BLUE should get 12VDC.

12.5vdc while running (it no longer jumps down from 1 back up to 12vdc sporadically)

In the Run position the lower plug GREEN/Red wire should show power reduced to about 5VDC going to the ECU

12.5vdc while running PROBLEM

the lower plug BROWN wire will drop to about 8VDC going to the coil, this is your run power after the resistors drop the voltage

8.5vdc while running with occasional drops to 1-2vdc

Two observations from before:
1.  it seems the ballast resister is not reducing voltage as it should coming out of the green/red wire, but perhaps is as it comes out of the brown wire. confirmed to be correct given the above now that the ignition switch has been replaced
2.  while running, the voltage is jumping all over the board.  is this normal?  if so, should i be looking at the ceiling/max voltage for the readings? no longer happening as often, but still happening

So I'm guessing the next step is to replace ballast resistor? 

JF

[Bullitt-]

Quote

    In the Run position the lower plug GREEN/Red wire should show power reduced to about 5VDC going to the ECU

12.5vdc while running PROBLEM    My statement cf 5VDC came from one source I found here on CC.C, I was not able to confirm this number but we know it should be lower after going through the resistor

Quote

    the lower plug BROWN wire will drop to about 8VDC going to the coil, this is your run power after the resistors drop the voltage

8.5vdc while running with occasional drops to 1-2vdc  Obviously somethings afoot, do not rule out a faulty ballast resistor even though it was recently replaced. If the power on the Blue wire is consistent that's about the only place I can see as the issue. 

[jforest1]

Thanks.  Since this time around I am personally troubleshooting (AND WITH EXPERT HELP), I am thinking the last two parts to replace that I don't necessarily trust are the ballast resistor and the ignition coil. 

I was told perhaps MSD makes sense because it will eliminate the need for both of these.  Thoughts?

JF

[Bullitt-]

I was told perhaps MSD makes sense because it will eliminate the need for both of these.  Thoughts?

JF

Just an observation never having had any aftermarket ignition... they cost a bunch & i see lots of folks here troubleshooting those as well.
If your not into racing I doubt you'd ever realize any performance advantages.    I've been studying up on a basic HEI conversion just to see, basically replacing the ECU & eliminating the ballast is all it entails at a minimal cost.    http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1311-convert-a-ford-or-chrysler-ignition-to-gm-hei/

[jforest1]

 

Replaced the ballast resistor with this one (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-ru12/applications/make/plymouth/engine-type/v8/cid/340/model/cuda).  Taking measurements again at the ballast resister same as before!

During START the Lower Plug BROWN  should have about 12VDC,

12.1vdc in start position check,

When key released goes to RUN the  upper plug BLUE should get 12VDC.

12.5vdc while running check

In the Run position the lower plug GREEN/Red wire should show power reduced to about 5VDC going to the ECU

12.5vdc while running PROBLEM

the lower plug BROWN wire will drop to about 8VDC going to the coil, this is your run power after the resistors drop the voltage

8.5vdc while running with occasional drops to 1-2vdc

JF