73 Road Race Cuda

[70chall440]

Finally figured out where to mount my accessory panel, I mounted it inside my center console, it is hinged so that I can get to by removing one side (passenger). All in all I think it will work well. Now, I can paint the console, install the fuse box and ECU and then run the wiring... 

For those interested, I will paint the console black with a texture and the center will have woodgrain like the original console. Still need to clean it up a little before paint but it is close.

[Cazbah362]

Nice progress!  I like how you are doing the wiring, wish I had planned and hidden mine better.  Goody did a really nice job on his, I may go back and follow some of his designs.  One thing I seen on yours is the main fuse.  I did that exact same block and it left me stranded on the side of the road.  Before you wire, could I suggest one of these:  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bss-cb185-150  or just recommend you carry a spare fuse and tools (I didn't, and was stranded on a Sunday - this was with the high HP BB, and original type alternator).

My other issue was using a modern alternator with Gen III system.  To use the Gold Box, I have to use a pre-70 regulator.  I really wish I could hide this, add's to the fender well clutter.

Car looks very nice - I like to poke in every now and then and check on progress, thanks for the read.

P.S. - Went to 12 Strong last (The Horse Soldiers) night, just wanted to say thank you.  I read the book when I was Warrant Senior Staff, great book - movie really brought it home. 

Charles 

[70chall440]

Cazbah (aka Charles) - I appreciate the kind words and appreciation. I hear what you are saying on the circuit breaker, however I decided to go the fuze route, but your advice is noted reference carrying spares and tools. Now that you planted the seed I am sure it will nag at me...

I will be running a factory VR on the firewall; personally I don't mind them and have already installed the nutserts to hold it. Currently I am in the process of trimming and lengthening the EFI harness to fit a bit better; some wires are WAY too long whereas others not long enough. Then I will install the main harness after I remove unneeded wires/circuits and lengthen others. The secondary effect of this wiring is that I now have a pretty healthy stock of electrical supplies and have learned how to do the electrical so it doesn't look like a hack job. Amazon is a wonderful place... Just bought another $70 of electrical components last night which included 3 different uninsulated spade ends and butt connectors. Having the right materials and tools really makes a huge difference.

I was supposed to go and watch the movie on post; my unit rented out one of the theaters there for just unit members (past and present) and their families. I am told they did a big equipment layout as well for the families to see of Special Forces equipment. My old  BN commander had been promoted and was the 5th SFG commander when they sent ODA-555 in country. I am sure I will watch the movie soon.

[70chall440]

Alright, as I said it would nag at me and it is; the issue of the circuit breaker. So, a quick internet search shows me there are a variety of models; however in the Bussmann line there are 2 150 amp models. One is a waterproof version and the other is also waterproof but says "thermal circuit breaker" as well as "Ignition Protected".

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PYK5NC/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B001PYK5NC&pd_rd_wg=rOOOO&pd_rd_r=8PS4A48Q9E6ZQS7CJF18&pd_rd_w=dxcsW&keywords=bussmann%20type%20iii%20high%20amp%20waterproof%20flush%20mount%20manual%20reset%20circuit%20breakers%20with%20sems%20nuts%20cb185%20150

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CB185-150-Type-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B001PT7XBE/ref=pd_sim_263_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001PT7XBE&pd_rd_r=2E8Q9M5AC1VT51C9297P&pd_rd_w=xtOpk&pd_rd_wg=36qFG&psc=1&refRID=2E8Q9M5AC1VT51C9297P

Anyone have thoughts on these two?

[70chall440]

Pictures..

[70chall440]

Just for Charles 

[70chall440]

So I am progressing with the wiring and have run into a small issue; how do I want to wire the electric fans. I have several options here but some are more complicated than others.

Option 1: The FAST harness comes with a fan lead, however this makes a connection on the negative side based on the temp sensor in the engine, the problem I have is that my Bussmann relay panel won't allow me to wire it this want because the negative side of the relays are all on a common buss. If I wanted to do this, I would have to install a separate relay which I could do but don't really want to do because I already have my relay panel made and installed.

Option 2: The wiring harness (Kwik) has a positive lead for the electric fan which can be switched; this would then allow me to use the relay panel I currently have. What this then means is that either the fans come on as soon as I flip the switch or I can elect to turn them off with a switch. My 52 pickup is wired this way and it isn't a huge issue unless you don't turn the fans on until the engine gets too hot, then it takes a long time to cool down.

I am pretty sure I am going with option 2, but wanted some input on it. I am attaching the basic wiring diagram as well as how the relay is wired (which is actually using the relays upside down so that the #85 terminal is grounded).

Thoughts? 

[GoodysGotaCuda]

So I am progressing with the wiring and have run into a small issue; how do I want to wire the electric fans. I have several options here but some are more complicated than others.

Option 1: The FAST harness comes with a fan lead, however this makes a connection on the negative side based on the temp sensor in the engine, the problem I have is that my Bussmann relay panel won't allow me to wire it this want because the negative side of the relays are all on a common buss. If I wanted to do this, I would have to install a separate relay which I could do but don't really want to do because I already have my relay panel made and installed.

Option 2: The wiring harness (Kwik) has a positive lead for the electric fan which can be switched; this would then allow me to use the relay panel I currently have. What this then means is that either the fans come on as soon as I flip the switch or I can elect to turn them off with a switch. My 52 pickup is wired this way and it isn't a huge issue unless you don't turn the fans on until the engine gets too hot, then it takes a long time to cool down.

I am pretty sure I am going with option 2, but wanted some input on it. I am attaching the basic wiring diagram as well as how the relay is wired (which is actually using the relays upside down so that the #85 terminal is grounded).

Thoughts?

Sorry, but I think you may have something wrong [perhaps interpretation] of that relay box. The control +12v side of a relay box is, I bet, always the bussed side. The other control will be ground....One control pin can be +12v or ground as long as the other control pin is the opposite.

Keep in mind most ISO 280 relays are rated to ~30-35a, you can't run too large of a fan off of just one relay.

[70chall440]

Ok... so I am following a build a guy did for a 4WD.

Here is what I am using

[70chall440]

Based off what I can find for the fans, Flexalite says they pull a max of 19 amps.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Ok... so I am following a build a guy did for a 4WD.

Here is what I am using

...why?

Here is my 

[edit, the upside down comment should be 87, not 97]

[70chall440]

A little hard to explain and its possible I am over thinking it but... 85 is on the internal bus bar and is not accessible from the back. I have 4 relays all running off this system which is a part of my issue.

here is the back of the box. I do have another box that is not as compact but it does allow wiring each relay individually. That said I have already spent way too much on these bussmann boxes (bought 2 of them)

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Gotcha. I think there are a few ways to do that. I have one more sitting around with just the fuss bar bussed, if you need a third. Cheap!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[70chall440]

I guess it comes down to whether or not I want the EFI ECU to control the fan or not. The way I am currently going they would not and would come on as soon as the ignition was turned on. I can/could control this with a switch but it will not be controlled by temperature. While I think controlling it from a temp sensor/ECU would be ok, I am not sure it is worth the effort.

Reference the box, I might take you up on the offer, I need to see how this one works. I like them for this size but they are prone to breaking when removing wires; there is a tiny tab inside there and if you press too hard they snap off and will no longer hold the wires in the cavities which makes it worthless. At $56 a pop, its a bit frustrating.

I am presently combing through the wiring harness removing wires I do not need and adding wires I do. This is helping immensely in understanding what goes where and how it is all connected. It looks like a hot mess, but in reality it isn't all that complicated. Of course now that I say that I am sure I will face some huge issue where something isnt going to work... I think the headlight switch is going to be a bit of a pain but we will see. I still contend that Chrysler hired the bottom 5% of the graduating electrical engineer class as things are wired strangely in some cases.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

I guess it comes down to whether or not I want the EFI ECU to control the fan or not. The way I am currently going they would not and would come on as soon as the ignition was turned on. I can/could control this with a switch but it will not be controlled by temperature. While I think controlling it from a temp sensor/ECU would be ok, I am not sure it is worth the effort.

Reference the box, I might take you up on the offer, I need to see how this one works. I like them for this size but they are prone to breaking when removing wires; there is a tiny tab inside there and if you press too hard they snap off and will no longer hold the wires in the cavities which makes it worthless. At $56 a pop, its a bit frustrating.

I am presently combing through the wiring harness removing wires I do not need and adding wires I do. This is helping immensely in understanding what goes where and how it is all connected. It looks like a hot mess, but in reality it isn't all that complicated. Of course now that I say that I am sure I will face some huge issue where something isnt going to work... I think the headlight switch is going to be a bit of a pain but we will see. I still contend that Chrysler hired the bottom 5% of the graduating electrical engineer class as things are wired strangely in some cases.

Bummer on the broken tabs, luckily I haven't run into that issue yet. I've removed quite a few pins of mine with a ground down pocket screwdrive to release the tab. Headlight switch isn't too bad, but it's a little wonky, I agree.