73 Road Race Cuda

[70chall440]

Still moving slowly forward on the wiring but at least its forward (most of the time). I had a couple of issues; first was that my start button along with the other 2 where too low as I didn't take into account the lower dash trim. The other issue was the fitment of the lower dash trim pieces to the dash which was bad. I fixed the first problem by making a new plate moving the buttons up. After looking at how the pad fit, I realized that one of the studs hung up and was causing the pad not to sit correctly, so I had to remove all of the speed nuts holding the pad on and get it positioned correctly. Both efforts yielded positive results.

[70chall440]

Good news bad news; Good news is that I have another "correct" quarter window coming from Wildcat salvage, however will see when it arrives.

Bad news, I am having problems unlocking the door with the key. It will lock ok but will not unlock completely. It seems like the rod is sliding into the lock bracket some and not transferring enough energy to unlock the door. Definitely not positive.

[redo1973]

WOW, I have the same thing happening to me since I put my glass in.  I keep one window open in case I get into a bad situation.  All I can think of is that I jammed a rod during one of those "frustrating moments".  I've also tried closing the door while unknowingly leaving the rod hanging out!  I'm at a loss.  It happened initially on the passenger side but now I notice on the driver side but less dramatically.

[70chall440]

I dont think it has to do with the window installation except it could be applying pressure on the lock rod (the one that runs under the window bracket). I will try again tomorrow but I also just ordered 2 new locks.

[70chall440]

Alright, I got my door lock situation sorted out. Before going on, I want to say that this worked for me, I am not going to swear this is necessarily correct. The specific problem was that the lock rods were under the front pivot bar of the window (the flat bar that is at the front of the door which the regulator pivots on, it has a raised portion that appears to be where he rods are routed). As it turns out (at least for me) is that the lock rods go around this bar and above the window regulator arm. When the window is rolled up, the arm goes down, thus it does not hit the lock rod. The door opening rod goes behind the pivot bar.

I am attaching some pictures and a drawing to help explain this. By moving the lock bar, it allows more movement and less friction on the lock rod.

[redo1973]

Thanks for the details.  I hope to address it in the near future.  I worked on my wiper motor today and had success.  I'll update my thread for others to see.  You were right, it was the grease on the park switch.

[70chall440]

As I said, what I wrote is what worked for me.

Glad the park switch deal worked out

[redo1973]

I'm concerned that I have a bigger issue with my locking mechanism.  I have a similar issue but it is not from the interior release but from the lock or manually pushing the rods. I'm hoping it's just the rods being tweaked and a bad angle.  It looks like that was your issue.

[73440]

Thanks 70chall440 , my passenger door lock gives trouble, maybe this will fix that.

[70chall440]

Thanks 70chall440 , my passenger door lock gives trouble, maybe this will fix that.

Hopefully. I installed new lock rods as well which I think helped some. I ordered new locks which I might install and I might not. I am thinking that the hole in the lock bracket where the rod goes into might be worn both in the hole and perhaps the part that connects or bears on the tumbler; my thought is that the new lock would be tighter and more efficient but now that mine are working I am not sure I want to remove them again.

[70chall440]

Full disclosure; Just heard from Crash340, he says in his car (bone stock car) both rods go under that plate, so I suspect this is how they are supposed to be but my method works for me so I will retain it unless I find a reason not to.

[70chall440]

So I have been playing with the door stainless; the original plan was to blacken it out, however after mocking it up I think I am going to stick with the chrome/stainless as I think it blends better into the car. The problem now is that it is making me rethink the flush mounted front and rear glass... I think I am still going to flush mount it and see, if I don't like it I can remove it and go back to stock.

[70chall440]

Reference the lock rods; I have confirmed that they do both go under the forward pivot plate. On my passenger door with the rod outside the plate it is possible for regulator to just hit and inadvertently lock the door.

My passenger door appears to work ok, its just the drivers side. I will keep playing with. 

[70chall440]

Got the stainless installed today. It went pretty well overall. I am having a little problem getting the drivers door window adjusted but we will see. It is definitely beginning to come together though. I need to get back to the wiring.

[redo1973]

I fully understand that adjustment challenge.  I found that I could adjust it pretty closer without the whiskers on the door.  Once I added whiskers it add that little bit of pressure to bring it into the weatherstripping better. It was another one of those learning experiences for me.