Author Topic: Electrical Problem  (Read 4983 times)

Offline cudabob496

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Electrical Problem
« on: September 03, 2015 - 03:31:32 PM »
I'm out crusing today, and all of a sudden the alternator amps output is up around 30, normally around 10,
and voltage is cycling above and below 16 Volts. Amps and volts kept cycling from normal to these high values.
I assume bad voltage regulator? Is there a particular voltage regulator I should buy?
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000




Offline edl94

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Re: Electrical Problem
« Reply #1 on: September 03, 2015 - 03:37:30 PM »
First check and make sure the voltage regulator is grounded well to the firewall. Also test the battery, a shorted or dead cell will make it charge like that. Or the regulators are cheap any auto parts store can fix you up.

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Electrical Problem
« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2015 - 04:05:05 PM »
thanks, I noticed Summit has a restoration VR for Mopars, and a Race Only VR for Mopars.

P3690731
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline roadman5312

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Re: Electrical Problem
« Reply #3 on: September 03, 2015 - 04:15:16 PM »
            So is the factory amp gauge still hooked up?  Not bypassed ?  And an aftermarket voltmeter I'm assuming ? 

Offline TelisSE440

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Re: Electrical Problem
« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2015 - 05:46:57 PM »
            So is the factory amp gauge still hooked up?  Not bypassed ?  And an aftermarket voltmeter I'm assuming ?

I was wondering the same thing, how did you do your electrical setup?

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Electrical Problem
« Reply #5 on: September 03, 2015 - 06:13:05 PM »
I was wondering the same thing, how did you do your electrical setup?

I have a heavy gauge wire going from the alternator, through an aftermarket amp gauge, to the
positive on the starter relay.  Then I have an aftermarket volt meter. So I can pretty much
see what current the entire engine is drawing. Normally max is around 10 amps, or 20 if I
turn on my electric fan.So, basically I've done the bulkhead bypass mod.
I saw the current get up to 60 amps a few times, when driving today, so I was expecting fuses to blow,
or a fire to start! The fuse on the wire from the alternator is 40 amp. Fortunately, I have a cutout swith
from the battery in the trunk, bolted to the panel that contains the tail lights. One time I did have wires melting
and that cutout saved my bacon.

Actually, I should not have taken the car out today, as at startup, I notice right away that the amp gauge was
up around 30, instead of 10. Guess I was hoping the situation would go away, but it only got worse. I've got
12 diff aftermarket gauges in my car, so its a lot more easy to see when a problem is arising.

why can't MP build a better VR. This one lasted about 10,000 miles. Maybe the MSD puts more
of a strain on it?
« Last Edit: September 03, 2015 - 06:18:19 PM by cudabob496 »
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline 734406pk

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Re: Electrical Problem
« Reply #6 on: September 03, 2015 - 08:20:21 PM »
I'm out crusing today, and all of a sudden the alternator amps output is up around 30, normally around 10,
and voltage is cycling above and below 16 Volts. Amps and volts kept cycling from normal to these high values.
I assume bad voltage regulator? Is there a particular voltage regulator I should buy?

Another area to check is the blue wire (switched ignition positive) that goes to the VR. The VR uses this voltage for sensing alternator output voltage. So if you have a voltage drop to the VR sense wire the alternator output voltage will increase until the VR senses about 14 volts. This could explain your intermittent high voltage and amperage readings as well. The VR may be ok and it's just trying to do its job maintaining about 14 volts. Check your connections in the engine harness. There is several splices in the ignition circuit to check. If you have a handheld volt meter it would be very helpful in diagnosis. :2thumbs:
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Electrical Problem
« Reply #7 on: September 03, 2015 - 11:12:54 PM »
Another area to check is the blue wire (switched ignition positive) that goes to the VR. The VR uses this voltage for sensing alternator output voltage. So if you have a voltage drop to the VR sense wire the alternator output voltage will increase until the VR senses about 14 volts. This could explain your intermittent high voltage and amperage readings as well. The VR may be ok and it's just trying to do its job maintaining about 14 volts. Check your connections in the engine harness. There is several splices in the ignition circuit to check. If you have a handheld volt meter it would be very helpful in diagnosis. :2thumbs:

thanks, will check out the wires!
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline HP_Cuda

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Re: Electrical Problem
« Reply #8 on: September 04, 2015 - 11:45:51 AM »

Everything you said is happening has happened to me because the VR was not grounded properly to the firewall.

It was freaky to see the amp guage (now disabled) slammed to the right and I felt the wiring harness and it was getting pretty warm.

Swapped out for a new VR and made sure it was grounded good and no more problems!!!
1970 Cuda Clone 440 4 speed - sublime green
1970 Cuda 383 4 speed - yellow - SOLD

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Electrical Problem
« Reply #9 on: September 04, 2015 - 11:40:35 PM »
Pretty stupid that we have a VR, that does not last very long (in my experience) and when it fails,
it fails in a manner that might melt your electrical system, or start a fire.  My ammeter was pegging
past 60 amps, and voltage was slammed all the way to the right (16+) as well. For heavens sake,
its 2015! We put a man on the moon in 1969! Seems it would be a simple design to make a better
VR!
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline TelisSE440

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Re: Electrical Problem
« Reply #10 on: September 05, 2015 - 02:47:58 AM »
Pretty stupid that we have a VR, that does not last very long (in my experience) and when it fails,
it fails in a manner that might melt your electrical system, or start a fire.  My ammeter was pegging
past 60 amps, and voltage was slammed all the way to the right (16+) as well. For heavens sake,
its 2015! We put a man on the moon in 1969! Seems it would be a simple design to make a better
VR!

 :iagree: 100%

Offline 734406pk

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Re: Electrical Problem
« Reply #11 on: September 05, 2015 - 10:28:30 AM »
Pretty stupid that we have a VR, that does not last very long (in my experience) and when it fails,
it fails in a manner that might melt your electrical system, or start a fire.  My ammeter was pegging
past 60 amps, and voltage was slammed all the way to the right (16+) as well. For heavens sake,
its 2015! We put a man on the moon in 1969! Seems it would be a simple design to make a better
VR!

There are other VR's available that will work but they won't look OEM.
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive

Offline TelisSE440

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Re: Electrical Problem
« Reply #12 on: September 05, 2015 - 11:14:59 AM »
When mine broke, I found an original looking VR for 15 $. I bought two of them with the one installed last year, with no problem at all. While the other is in the tool box inside the trunk for emergency...

Offline roadman5312

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Re: Electrical Problem
« Reply #13 on: September 05, 2015 - 04:55:29 PM »
Don't rely on grounding the vr with the sheet metal mounting bolt. Make up a ground wire to the motor    :2cents:   Everything on our build has it's own ground wire to battery or block.

Offline 734406pk

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Re: Electrical Problem
« Reply #14 on: September 05, 2015 - 10:45:27 PM »
Don't rely on grounding the vr with the sheet metal mounting bolt. Make up a ground wire to the motor    :2cents:   Everything on our build has it's own ground wire to battery or block.

That's how it should have been done from the factory!  Ground faults on the Mopar regulator are a common problem. Nice job Mark!
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive