amp gauge bypass?

[JoeGrapes]

Can anyone show me a diagram on how to bypass the ALT gauge the correct way?

[73440]

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

from the forum here

[JoeGrapes]

Yup, that's what I'm looking for. Thanks

[73440]

Yeah, I need to check if mine is done also, just printed this out the other day.

[bc3j]

I'm probably in the minority on this, but I like the ammeter. I used the fleet bypass that the factory used on police, taxi cars and maintain a fully functioning ammeter.  I have a stock electrical system which works well for me, but those with higher electrical demands might need to do it like the above article.

[JoeGrapes]

What does the fleet bypass look like?

[dodj]

I'm probably in the minority on this, but I like the ammeter.

I like the ammeter too. But I bypassed it for safety reasons. A full flow ammeter is just not a safe thing to have in a dash.

[Racer57]

Stupid question and embarrassed to ask, but I have too........

'70 Rallye dash says "ALT" with Discharge and Charge needle. Is it an Amps or Volts gauge?

Sorry for showing my ignorance. Give me some nuts and bolts any day.

[bc3j]

I ran a new 10ga from alt thru a grommet hole in firewall and a new 10 ga with fusible link from the start terminal through the firewall.  This bypasses the bulkhead connection. Both new wires connect to the ammeter respectively. I have an auto car and used the clutch rod access on the firewall to access the interior. The original black 12ga is disconnected at the alternator. The original black 12ga from the ammeter remains in place to power the interior. The original red wire from the start terminal to the ammeter is disconnected.  I would worry more about the weak bulkhead connectors than the ammeter.

I run stock mopar electronic ignition, no electric fans or high power stereo equipment. I also use the stock 44.5 amp alternator. My car is an AC car. My AC is off the car.  My headlight relays are powered directly from the alternator. It works for me, but a lot of people run more electric stuff than is stock so I understand their needs. I like the ammeter. All original wiring is in place just disconnected and taped should I want to restore to stock. I just would replace the clutch rod body plug and I'm back to stock.

[73440]

Stupid question and embarrassed to ask, but I have too........

'70 Rallye dash says "ALT" with Discharge and Charge needle. Is it an Amps or Volts gauge?

Sorry for showing my ignorance. Give me some nuts and bolts any day.

amps

[soundcontrol]

I'm gonna replace mine with a voltmeter, but I don't wanna change the stock look, so I'm gonna ask Redline to make a voltmeter with the stock amp scale. I'll just look about where it sits on the scale at 12 V, engine off.

[Mpdlawdog]

Interesting read..I had my 68 charger burn up the bulk head...just ran one wire through the bulk head to fix it but I think Ill do this change on the challenger....

In the diagram it doesnt show it hooking up a volt gauge...just by passing the alt gauge....so my question is is there a diagram showing the proper way to hook the gauge up???

[bc3j]

Not an electrical guy...thought you wire voltmeter to any keyed 12v source and a ground. I have a cigarette lighter type voltmeter I occasionally use along with the ammeter. Sure one of the electrical guys will have the answer.

[734406pk]

Not an electrical guy...thought you wire voltmeter to any keyed 12v source and a ground. I have a cigarette lighter type voltmeter I occasionally use along with the ammeter. Sure one of the electrical guys will have the answer.

Yes keyed power and ground. Key on engine off you should see about 12.6 volts, engine running, 13.8 to 14.2 volts. That's how you know it's charging. A temporary volt meter plugged into the cig lighter will work too. 

[72ls5fla]

I ran a 10g wire from the starter relay directly to the alternator (with a fuseable link).

I think (not 100% sure) this took about 70-80 percent of the load across the AMP gauge and the fuse block away.
the ammeter gauge will move a lot less side to side.

I also noticed less dimming of my head lights when the idle dropped down some.

I checked my bulkhead connections and made sure there was no burning of insulation and any deterioration.
cleaned everything up and used dielectric grease when clipping it all back together.

All is good almost 10K miles later.

FWIW - unless you plan to use a big ass high amp alternator and have several electrical devices running simultaneously, the factory wiring and even the bulkhead items should be ok as long as they are sporadically checked for wear etc...

My two cents...
Bill