Remember that it will be expensive due to the better performance out of two turbos on that engine size...
It all started with water injection..then water/alcohol mixes, and we use 100% for most power.
In WWII they used a mix for supercharger power at high altitude in P-51's and such. Kept the engines from blowing the heads off under emergency power.
It is based on latent heat of vaporization. When a liquid is converted to vapor, the process removes heat from the surrounding environment which results in a temperature drop.
Straight water results in the largest drop altho alcohols are pretty efficient as well. Think about wiping rubbing alcohol on your arm. Remember how cool is as it evaporates? Or, if you live in a low humidity area, how well evaporative cooling works...
50-50 water and alcohol is quite popular because it is not flammable and the alky provides some fuel content to the mix whereas water only provides cooling.
100% methanol provides good cooling but it also provides a high octane fuel source to accompany the cooling benefit. One would not want to have a rupture in the methanol tank because it would make a really nice fire. Methanol produces less heat than gasoline but it gives a lot more than waterr
Now, what does the cooling do? When we mist the injection fluid into the pipe going to the throttlebody, it immediately flashes into vapor and dramatically drops the temperature of the charged air going into the engine. This means one can run considerably more boost without detonation. (when we spray gasoline into the engine, it also vaporizes and cools the combustion chamber temperature...that is why richer mixtures tend to reduce detonation. Spraying water, water/alky, or straight alky further reduces the temperature which allows us to run more boost without detonation.
For the record, detonation is the auto combustion of the end gases in the combustion chamber. It is not the same as pre-ignition.
When the spark plug fires, the air/fuel mix is ignited in the area around the plug tip and the flame front ideally spreads smoothly across the top of the piston and develops a smooth increase in combustion chamber that peaks after top dead center and drives the piston down.
If, after the air/fuel mix has been lit, the gases around the edge of the cylinder spontaneous ignite instead of waiting to be lit by the spreading flame front, we get a sudden pressure spike and a sound that can resemble a hammer hitting the piston....it is harmful, but normally it spikes as the piston goes over top dead center so it is not nearly as bad as pre-ignition. Still it, can blow the head gaskets apart, hammer the bearings, and/or break rings...On a normally aspirated car, it is not good at all, but on a forced aspirated engine, it is multiplied many times.
Pre-ignition, of course, is ignition caused by something other than the spark plug. A hot spot in the combustion chamber sets off the air/fuel mix before the plug fires. This means the piston is low in the chamber and it tends to reverse the direction of the piston travel which can end up with a lot of broken stuff including the crank.
Now, we have run water injection on normally aspirated cars for years when we had high compression and too low an octane gas. I know several people who currently run Snow Performance's kit on their cars so they can run a bit more timing with their choice of gas. It works, but does not enable the increase in power that it does on forced aspiration.
On my Buicks, I can run about 17 psi of boost on 93 octane. With alky, I typically run about 26 psi on 91 octane and sometimes when I am serious 28 psi. This gives me more than 100 hp on a 231" engine.
Alky Control probably makes the best kits for forced aspiration.
