Where to find lower ball joint to spindle nuts and bolts

[KillerBee]

Sorting out my disc brake conversion kit.

Instructions state I must reuse the current lower ball join to spindle nuts and bolts but the ones currently on the car are junk.
Are the nuts and bolts unique?
I have a local industrial hardware and fastener store that usually has any type of nut and bolt I need.

Anyone know what size the bolts are and if the original ones can be replaced with aftermarket?

Thanks.

[Chryco Psycho]

Yes you can replace them , I would use grade 8 fine thread bolts though with nylock nuts .
 I don't have the size handy though

[KillerBee]

Thanks.

I'm going to see if my local fastener place can copy these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-Disc-Brake-Knuckle-Ball-Joint-BOLTS-New-XHD-Challenger-Duster-Satellite-/221912370591?hash=item33ab020d9f&vxp=mtr

[Chryco Psycho]

should be easy all the specs are listed in the ebay ad

[anlauto]

Doesn't the head of the bolt need to be thin not to interfere with the rotor ? Or were the originals just like that for the heck of it ?

[Chryco Psycho]

Yes the heads may need to be thinned for clearance so that needs to be checked , it may clear with no issues though .

[KillerBee]

The bolts pictured in the E-bay ad don't appear thinner to me.

I'll pick up the bolts today after work, (I'll see if they have any with thinner heads) and try to get everything mocked up in the next day or two.

If there is an issue I don't see why I can't thin them a bit.

[Chryco Psycho]

put the heads under the rotor or drum with the nuts inward & check for clearance problems

[KillerBee]

After a couple trips to the fastener store I finally had a chance to mock up my disc brake setup.

First, the 2.75" bolt length listed in the Ebay ad was a bit too long.
I'm not sure if most of the spindles on the aftermarket disc brake conversion kits are the same thickness but a 2.50" length bolt worked much better for me.

After installing the bolts and putting everything together the bolt heads did not rub on the back of the rotor but were VERY close.
I'm not sure if the rotors move/flex any during braking or hard cornering but after about 1/2 hour with the bench grinder I was able to remove just a little of the material from the 4 bolt heads to give me the clearance I was happy with.
Total cost for 4 grade 8 bolts and lock nuts was $5.47.

Now if someone can tell me how the he** to get the dust boots installed on the Moog ball joints

[anlauto]

Cool, great tip
Are you putting factory dust shields on ?

[KillerBee]

Yes the kit came with what look like galvanized dust shields.

I've read they should be painted black for a 1971 R/T Challenger but they sure look nice unpainted so they might stay that way.

[brads70]

Looks great!     For the ball joint boots I use a big socket or a pipe that fits around the boot and a rubber hammer.

[KillerBee]

Looks great!     For the ball joint boots I use a big socket or a pipe that fits around the boot and a rubber hammer.

Thanks.
What's with the writing on the boot about the notch facing inward?

[TonyBolton]

Prolly so when the grease gushes out it doesnt get on your rotor.

[twalker]

Looks great!     For the ball joint boots I use a big socket or a pipe that fits around the boot and a rubber hammer.

Me too, works great


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk