Author Topic: E-body Prices and New Member (Read 3033 times)

RooK · « **on:** May 30, 2005 - 07:30:56 PM »

Hey guys, I'm new here and I have some questions for you. I'm saving up some money to do something fun with. I currently own a '00 Grand Prix SE with a 3.1l V6 and my first option would be to swap in a 3.8l supercharged V6 with mods (guys have these running 13s with a little work and the powerful ones are in the 11s and 10s). My other options, and where you guys step in, is to buy a project vehicle. I'm planning on having up to $5000, so nothing fancy. I've always loved Mopar vehicles, especially the old E-body Challengers and 'Cudas made between '70-'74. Could you guys tell me how much these things are going for in 'running' shape? I'd even be willing to pick one up that doesn't run and fix it up over time into an AAR or T/A clone (exterior) with a 440 6-pack, with no set budget beyond the intial price of the car. Keep in mind, there are no specifics and this is a car I plan on keeping. If it comes with a slant 6 or an auto, I would eventually swap in a V8 and manual anyway. So, is getting myself a 'Cuda or Challenger possible for $5000 or less?

Thanks for any input you can offer. You can bet if one lands in my lap I'll be posting a lot here since I'm mostly used to electronics on a car, something that will definately be missing for the most part from these cars.

Carlwalski · « **Reply #1 on:** May 30, 2005 - 07:36:50 PM »

Welcome aboard mate.

:thumbs:

eBay would be your best bet for a rolling chasis. Depending on year (70-71's "generally" go for more) you could pick up a solid 70-71 shell with basic interior, no drivetrain etc for $3,500 - $5-6,000 this is a rough ball park figure as it all depends on the state of the vehicle.

What are YOU wanting out of the car? Show/clone, drag only, street/strip, other...? :dontknow:

With the money you have it is possible to find yourself an "OK" condition Challenger/Cuda body. :beer:

RooK · « **Reply #2 on:** May 30, 2005 - 07:57:26 PM »

Definately a street/strip weekend driver. Something you can play with and store for the winter (snows) while I keep my daily driver doing the running. It could also serve as a backup car if my other one has to go in the shop. I'm a college student, so money is a premium for me, which is why I won't have much to work with initially. I don't really care for the lucrative years (even though it's right for the type of clone I'm wanting). I just want an E-body I can have fun with, matching numbers and period correctness dismissed. Hope you purist don't beat on me too much. It's also about giving a piece of history a home, seeing them rusted out and broken is just sad.

Tropicalcats · « **Reply #3 on:** May 30, 2005 - 08:01:03 PM »

Quote from: RooK on May 30, 2005 - 07:57:26 PM

� It's also about giving a piece of history a home, seeing them rusted out and broken is just sad.

you got that right .

Just keep looking and when it talks to ya buy it.
Welcome aboard

AprilsPink72Cuda · « **Reply #4 on:** May 30, 2005 - 08:10:14 PM »

Welcome to the forum RooK. Good luck with your search. The search is part of the fun! You will know when you see the right car.

Rev-It-Up · « **Reply #5 on:** May 30, 2005 - 10:46:30 PM »

Welcome to the board Rook! Just keep your eyes open...you'll find something for $5K!

Steve · « **Reply #6 on:** May 31, 2005 - 08:23:37 AM »

$5K might get you in the door. Finding a 72-74 driver for that money should be possible, but don't expect to get much. Save up as much money as you can and get the straightest, most complete car you can. "Little repairs" can add up to a lot of money.

rusty dodge · « **Reply #7 on:** May 31, 2005 - 09:02:00 AM »

If you are on a budget, forget about an e body. You have got to love these cars to afford to do one.

A 5K ebody will get you one that needs everything. I'm finding out it really only makes sense to do an R/T, T/A, or big block car 70-71. A plain jane car costs the same to fix up for the parts, but you won't get your money out of it. And thats not including your sweat equity.

Some examples, parts only:
non rusted Front fenders $350 - 500 each and they will still need work.

Rear wheel wells and trunk extensions $500
rear quarters, skins, pr.$500 (full quarters are avail 1200)
Trunk pans, floor pans - frame rail repair caps $$$ make darn shure the car you find dosn't need this stuff.

Gas tank, sending unit, straps, fuel line - $400

Interior (depends on if its black or color)
seat covers: 300 - 600 you install them.
dash pad: 500 - 600
guages rebuilt: 300 (convert to ralley guages, add 500 or so)
window and door seals, felts 300

engine - trans, brakes- lines, front end, springs, rear posi, seals, and everything else, there's mastercard.$$$

cudahob · « **Reply #8 on:** May 31, 2005 - 10:31:02 AM »

Welcome, I'd start with 10,000. You don't want to buy someone else's headache. Parts will make you :burn:
up paying for what's not there.

Then you'll start looking like some of us => :madvibe: after a month, :gripe: after 6, :mad: after a year

2 years after you started buying parts and fixing it, then your looking like this :

: :dontknow: why do I need the frustration.

If you didn't sell it, and kept you spouse, home, sanity, you have a wonderful car to drive and people will do this => :thumbs: :thumbs:

:tongue:

:beer:

$15,000 for a nice driver/fixer, more fun too.

Go to low, and it gets very hard to have fun.

Wrencher · « **Reply #9 on:** May 31, 2005 - 10:42:36 AM »

Quote from: cudahob on May 31, 2005 - 10:31:02 AM

Go to low, and it gets very hard to have fun.

The more you have to start with, the better. I bought a non-running car with lots of warts. Just guesstimating, I will probably have $15k and 18-24 months of hard labor in a driver by the time I'm finished with me doing all the work.

15k will buy a pretty nice driver that all it needs is gas.

Steve · « **Reply #10 on:** May 31, 2005 - 11:51:09 AM »

Hey....this reminds me....ask Mike Tyler about his "driver"! Holy Cow! I think Mike got a bit more work than he expected....and he bought a running, driving, recently painted car! He's now got the thing apart and he's welding in a new cowl section. He'd be a great source of up-to-date information on looking and buying..

Me...I bought a '72 sight unseen (but all there) for $4500. No, it wasn't running and yes, it needs lots of work. Of course, some might say that I got :spank:

71_340Challenger · « **Reply #11 on:** May 31, 2005 - 02:01:02 PM »

I bought my 71 Challenger with a 340/727 for $8k in Washington state a year ago. It was in good, drivable condition, with numbers matching drive train.�

Not a show car by any means, but all the trim is there and is mostly original, except color and someone swapped in 72 buckets for the original bench seat.� Unfortunately, in the matter of about 3 months, I blew 4 head gaskets on the 340 and it is now torn apart waiting for time and money to complete the engine and get it back on the road.� :pissed:�:mad:� �:burn: Overall, I am happy with my purchase, just wish I could be driving it now that summer is almost here. If you are not in a hurry and are patient, I think you can pick up a decent one for between $7k-$10k. There is also a lot of junk in that price range, so be careful and thoroughly inspect any prospect before buying. Good Luck.

RooK · « **Reply #12 on:** May 31, 2005 - 02:27:24 PM »

Quote from: rusty dodge on May 31, 2005 - 09:02:00 AM

If you are on a budget, forget about an e body. You have got to love these cars to afford to do one.

I am on a budget, initially. Once I secure a decent specimen, I have nothing but time. If not an e-body, then what do you suggest? I don't want an a-body, they leave me uninspired and unenthused. B-bodies are fine, but I doubt they'd be less than an e-body, but perhaps you could shed some light on that.

Quote

A 5K ebody will get you one that needs everything. I'm finding out it really only makes sense to do an R/T, T/A, or big block car 70-71. A plain jane car costs the same to fix up for the parts, but you won't get your money out of it. And thats not including your sweat equity.

I'm not looking for something to get my money back out of, I'm looking for a keeper. Something I can grow old with and perhaps pass down to my children. If I do spend the money restoring a car, all the better because it's one more back in working condition.

Thanks for everyones comments and suggestions. I'm still saving up, so I'll have months to decide on a course of action. What suggestions do you guys have for something other than an e-body?

MEK-Dangerfield · « **Reply #13 on:** May 31, 2005 - 02:33:25 PM »

Since you don't care for A-bodies, and the late 60's B-Bodies are $$$, I suggest looking at the early 70's B-bodies. The 71-74 Charger and Road Runner are nice looking cars that are under-valued in my opinion. I know it's a tough choice, but I think if you pay 5K for an E-body now, you might get discouraged before it gets finished. This will take years and lots of cash, of course.

Mike

rusty dodge · « **Reply #14 on:** May 31, 2005 - 02:36:44 PM »

Oh and I forgot

Interior paint: color correct acrylic laqure from Rob at Mopaint : 2 pints $225.00. :ack:

I fell out of my chair when he said how much.

Author Topic: E-body Prices and New Member (Read 3033 times)

RooK

E-body Prices and New Member

Carlwalski

Re: E-body Prices and New Member

RooK

Re: E-body Prices and New Member

Tropicalcats

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AprilsPink72Cuda

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Rev-It-Up

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Steve

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rusty dodge

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cudahob

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Wrencher

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Steve

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71_340Challenger

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RooK

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MEK-Dangerfield

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rusty dodge

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