NAG1 Oil stick tube/Shifter

[soundcontrol]

Anyone using the NAG1 in a e-body, is a cut in the tunnel necessary, or can you modify the oil stick tube to run tighter to the tranny case? Would it clear the tunnel?

[roadrunninMark]

Are you using the Schumacher mounts?  They are supposed to have the engine sit slightly lower then the TTI's.  I don't know the answer but was told by someone you can bend the tube to clear.  My plan is the same as yours and I will not cut the body.  I was thinking of even modifying a K frame to get it to sit a little lower to clear.

Please post what you find out.

[soundcontrol]

Actually, I don't know yet, I ordered everything from Bouchillion, but since I'm in Sweden, the stuff is in a container on the way here now. But I suspect it is the TTI's since I got those headers. (on the invoice it just says 57MMBE Engine mount Kit).  I see people cut big chunks out of the tunnel just for this filler tube, I sure hope I can avoid it, looking at the NAG1, I can make the tube run much slimmer towards the tranny body, and maybe flatten it a bit in some spots, should not interfere much with the oil stick. Lowering the engine a bit seems like a good solution also. Do you have any way of getting the correct angle for the driveshaft (the height of the tranny mount)?


Are you gonna use the NAG1 shifter as is? I bought two of them, gonna take one apart (and probably destroy it) to see if I can mount the electronics in my stock shifter, never seen anyone do that, but It can't be rocket sience....

[roadrunninMark]

I would like to use the stock shifter and console too.  I am very interested in what you find out with the shifter.  Please post your progress and pictures!  I don't have any of the parts yet, as I was hoping to get a wrecked car to get all the parts from.  I would like to modify the new gauge cluster to fit in the stock rally cluster as well.  I want the car to look all original except the engine and transmission.

[soundcontrol]

I would like to use the stock shifter and console too.  I am very interested in what you find out with the shifter.  Please post your progress and pictures!  I don't have any of the parts yet, as I was hoping to get a wrecked car to get all the parts from.  I would like to modify the new gauge cluster to fit in the stock rally cluster as well.  I want the car to look all original except the engine and transmission.

Yep, exactly my point of view also, if I have to put that plastic POS shifter in my nice Challenger it will ruin the whole interior feel.Also want a GPS speedo, voltmeter etc, but all stock looking.
I will post everything I find out about the shifter, I took one apart (almost), just that I cant get to the very inside without grinding off a ridge on the axle (so I have to break it), but thats why I got 2 of them. The manual shift function is just 2 regular circuit board buttons though. On the NAG1 shifter, those buttons can only be engaged in Drive (mechaniclly), so if I use the buttons any other way, I have to put a switch that breaks the circuit to the buttons and closes it on Drive only.

[roadrunninMark]

If you are keeping your original style gauges, here is a thread on Moparts where a member change the ammeter to a voltmeter.  He uses a sunpro gauge and fits in the spot of the ammeter.  It looks pretty good.  Here is the link: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/783499/Searchpage/1/Main/69667/Words/Sunpro/Search/true/re-voltmeter-mod-for-mopars.html#Post783499

I wonder if you could make the shifter move "sideways", kind of like the auto shift in the prowler and other models?  Might make it look weird though.  I agree, all the new plastic is ugly.  I think the pistol grip auto shifter that is available looks nice as well.  What about putting a button under the top finish piece of the shifter to make it work?  It could have a "flip top" to access the button under it...  here is the shifter from RestoRick: http://www.restorick.com/proddetail.asp?prod=AutoPistolGrip

[soundcontrol]

Yeah, that looks good, but I think I'm keeping it totally stock, with the ampmeters face, but its a voltmeter, it will just sit on a spot between center and C when charging and in center with ignition on, engine off, kinda like the ampmeter. Redline can do that mod.


I think it will be hard to make the stock shifter move sideways ( the NAG1 moves sideways in Drive, and then pushes on the buttons). But there is many ways of adding 2 small buttons to shift with, that pistolgrip can be modified with either 2 buttons for the thumb, or in the front for fingers, or on top, don't believe in a flip top though. The round shifter is a bit harder to add 2 buttons to, but I'm gonna think about it...
I added extra buttons to a computer mouse once, I'm sure I can do it on a shifter, its actually the same type of button.
Picture shows the 2 shift buttons in the NAG1 shifter.

[roadrunninMark]

If I understand correctly, the 2 switches are for upshifts and downshifts?  Yes the round shifter would be tough.  How about a 2 way rocker switch?  2 switches in spot, can put in the either the top of the shifter, or like a "trigger" in the front of the pistol grip.  Attached is a simple 2 way rocker switch as an example.  You could also add paddle shifters to the steering wheel.  Yes, not stock, but can keep your hands on the wheel while shifting.  Then you wouldn't have to modify the shifter at all.  The paddle shifter is available, a company called sound german automotive (check on facebook) makes a paddle shifter and a stand alone controller.

simple 2 way rocker:

[soundcontrol]

I have seen the paddles, but it feels so "Ferrari"   
yes, up and downshift. I really liked the pistolgrip you linked to, that would be easy to get a few buttons in to, lots of room in the handle there.

The up/down buttons are easy, the main problem is the rest of the electronics in there.

[roadrunninMark]

Perhaps you can get the switch and wires in there and leave the electronics in the console near the shifter?  Might be easier that way.

[soundcontrol]

Yes, the electronics, I have to get it open and analyze the function, I suspect it is a position sensor of some kind, prying a bit and peeping in there, I see moving parts that is attached to the axle in the bottom of the NAG1 shifter. So then I have to find a way to mount that so the stock shifter send the same signals to the sensor as the NAG1 shifter. It's not the main shifting mechanism though, thats a regular wire that goes to the tranny, electronics must be just for letting the computer know what gear is selected (I'm guessing here, will find out later). There is also a solenoid involved, have to find out the function of that one also. (I suspect a lockdown in park, guessing again). I wil go about this this way; I take one NAG1 shifter apart and study the electronics while I'll mount the other one in the car when I have the engine and tranny installed, just to make sure everything works as planned, when the car works fine with the NAG1 shifter I can start experimenting with just loose electronics from the taken apart shifter, and try to apply those to work as intended. This will be a year from now, or more, since I'm just now getting the car up in my rotisserie, maybe someone else solves the problem before I try...

[roadrunninMark]

I bet it is a parking lock (having to press the brake pedal before putting it in gear) as you said, also maybe a reverse lockout too.  Sounds like a great plan.  I hope to be at about your pace as well.  If you need any parts that you cannot get over there, let me know if I can help.  Will you have a build thread?  Be great to follow along your progress.

[soundcontrol]

I bet it is a parking lock (having to press the brake pedal before putting it in gear) as you said, also maybe a reverse lockout too.  Sounds like a great plan.  I hope to be at about your pace as well.  If you need any parts that you cannot get over there, let me know if I can help.  Will you have a build thread?  Be great to follow along your progress.

Thanks! I got 2 threads right now, one for the resto and one for the swap, (see links below) I will probably just use one of them in the future.

[roadrunninMark]

What are your thoughts on the drive by wire gas pedal?  Will you use your stock pedal or new pedal?  If you are on Facebook, here is a guy converting something (drive by wore control?) to use with a cable, or something like that...I asked what it is...   https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10153788626176420&set=p.10153788626176420&type=3&theater

[soundcontrol]

I have not thought much about it actually, that mod the guy on Facebook seems good, would be nice to keep the stock pedal...

But I have to ask Chris (Hotwire) about that,because there might be problems if using that method with his system and programming.
The computer might wanna see the signals from the stock electronic pedal. I did order a Drive by Wire Kit for my 727 from Bouchillion, since I fist was gonna use that, but I changed my mind to late in the process to cancel the order (since I'm in Sweden).
Easiest for me is probably to use the electronic pedal.


My pedal that came with the system had a weird motor on it, see this thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=109214.0
Came to trhe conclusion that it was a motor for adjustable pedals.