Power Steering Box Rebuild --All Done

[CUDA JAS]

Oh...  Side question.  Do you have good pics of the reactor spring area?  I have some, but feel that I'm missing a seal on the bottom side.

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top or bottom spring??  I took lots of pics.

[gleasmja]

top or bottom spring??  I took lots of pics.

Bottom spring.    Just have an feeling I've got something wrong.


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[CUDA JAS]

Bottom spring.    Just have an feeling I've got something wrong.


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here is what I have...if that does not solve you issue let me know, I am in the process of taking apart a second box and can take more.

here is the spring on.



here is the spring off.



There is just the one seal under the spring.  I have not taken any of the seals out yet..so I can get you a pic of what ever else you need.

Jason

[gleasmja]

Nope...  I guess I was just worried.  That's how I have mine.   Where are you putting the second set of springs?  Top and bottom? 


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[CUDA JAS]

Nope...  I guess I was just worried.  That's how I have mine.   Where are you putting the second set of springs?  Top and bottom? 


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yes extra springs on both top and bottom.

Jason

[CUDA JAS]

Well my rebuild kit showed up form Rock auto (much quicker than expected) so I figured I would start putting things back together (I still have to get the bearings out of the box...but I will get to that).

A few pics...

here is the bottom section of the power unit and the first bearing and races installed:



The snap ring at the bottom of this section was the only real pain in the butt...but then again most snap rings are a pain.

here are the two bottom reaction springs.



I have the upper races and bearing installed and have the large nut threaded on finger tight. (camera died)

Next step is to tighten the nut down to spec and crimp it on.  I am not sure the best way of staking the nut...I am thinking of using a pair of vice grips and crimping the top of the nut...as opposed the using a punch as per the FSM.  I just think the vice grips are more accurate.

Any thoughts???

Jason

[jimynick]

I'd use the punch Jas. I don't think the grips would give you the crush into the threads the way the punch would- hence the FSM recommendation. Just my 
PS- if you're worried about mangling something with the punch, use a brass one. If you don't have one, come over and get one. Good luck 

[CUDA JAS]

I'd use the punch Jas. I don't think the grips would give you the crush into the threads the way the punch would- hence the FSM recommendation. Just my 
PS- if you're worried about mangling something with the punch, use a brass one. If you don't have one, come over and get one. Good luck 

Thanks Ian.

I just never seem to have any luck with a punch.  It always seems to move just before I hit it.

That and the FSW calls for a flat (square) tip punch...

I am hopeful I will get to it tonight or at the very least next week (its my slow week at work which means more car time at night!)

Jason

[70chall440]

Perhaps a little less coffee before picking up the hammer...  in all seriousness I have had the same issue as a result of smashing my hand, it is an unintentional flinch.

[gleasmja]

How did you end up setting the top nut torque?  Sitting at that point myself.

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[CUDA JAS]

How did you end up setting the top nut torque?  Sitting at that point myself.

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I have a plan...I will take some pics as I go and let you know if it works.

I hope to take a shot at it Monday night.

Jason

[CUDA JAS]

Well I managed to the get the bearings out of the box...

My secret weapon...pilot bearing puller:



I rented this from Canadian Tire along with a slide hammer.  It work great on the upper bearing...with a little learning curve.



You have to make sure you are under the bearing.

I could not get the tool deep enough on the lower bearing, but getting the upper out allowed me to get to the lower with a socket and extension and pound it out.

Next steps clean up the box and install the new bearings (tap in with a socket) and continue reassembly.

Jason

[CUDA JAS]

How did you end up setting the top nut torque?  Sitting at that point myself.

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OK here is my secret weapon...I figured I would try to follow the FSM with the rope wraped around the bearing race...the FSM deos not spec the tourque of the nut, rather the tourque it take to spin the race (20 ounces ideal).  The FSM as it ususaly does specifies a specuialty tool, breaker point scale, and of course we al have one of those or know where to get one.  So I used:



A fish scale...with a tape measure!!

I pulled on the cord and made sure the race was spinning...I was right at 1.5 punds wich is just over 20 ounces but still in spec.

Seemes like it worked.

I then staked the nut and put the power head all back together. 



I think it all went back together real good.

Jason

Based

[CUDA JAS]

Well poop...I was looking at my pics as I posted the above update last night (not that I can see them now looks like Photo Bucket is down), and realized that the large numbers on my scale are KGs...damn metric scale!  I mean really who weighs a fish is KGs..hey look at the 4.5 KG bass I caught...that is 10 lbs for all us normal folks.

OK OK OK, so I am pissed that I did not see that last night while putting things back together. 

Now it looks like I tightened the nuts 3 time more than required.

I guess I am pulling things apart tonight and loosening that off a bit.  I am sure the nut can withstand being restaked, at least I hope it will.   

I hate redoing things!!! Oh well live and learn!

Jason

[blown motor]

The outside scale is lbs. Are you sure you read the wrong scale?