Power Steering Box Rebuild --All Done

[rUNCHARGER]

I did that seal on my orange car, it took about 10 minutes plus pulling the column back. Do it just as Wild R/T suggested.

Sheldon

[Salty Dog]

The one at the far right last item is seal steering gear worm shaft 2267 129

Thanks

Do you think that would be the same part number for 1970 car? Where is a good place to get it?

[73440]

I will check a couple of my books butt I thought the 70 manual picture diagram look the same as the 73 steering box is yours a challenger or barracuda

Defend the 2nd Amendment. Tap-a-Talk

[Salty Dog]

70 Gran Coupe 383 car

Thanks

[1 Wild R/T]

Seal is the same but that pt# is a Chrysler pt# & won't cross to a normal pt#...   Try this number....   NATIONAL 7188S

[Salty Dog]

Thanks, I just ordered it on Amazon

[Brillo1974]

I just replaced my steering box with a rebuilt one yesterday and when I ran the car the steering box was leaking under the nut on the steering gear adjustment nut on the top of the box. Looking at the pictures in the manual it looks like there is just an O ring on that shaft that maybe the nut tightens against to seal it to the shaft, is this right? Mine has the small flat rectangular plate under the nut that I figure keeps the nut from binding on the O ring when you tighten it? Tell me I can just tighten the nut some more and stop the leak or take the nut off and replace the O ring under it because I don't want to have to pull that mother again to replace it. I may void the warranty on it if I mess with the nut because they have everything marked with paint so they can tell if you take anything apart.

[73440]

Looks like the flat rectangular plate may be what they call the seal w/ date tag steering gear shaft adjusting screw, Chrysler part # 2948 859

http://www.fmmotorparts.com/fmstorefront/federalmogul/en/USD/search?q=%3Aname-asc%3Avehiclesegment%3A1974DodgeChallenger|Passenger+Car+Light+Truck%3Ayear%3A1974DodgeChallenger|1974%3Amake%3A1974DodgeChallenger|Dodge%3Amodel%3A1974DodgeChallenger|Challenger%3Abrand%3ANational&prodCount=20

The 7188S from National that 1 Wild R/T mentioned is shown as the same code number in the parts manual , but different part #  as the steering gear shaft adjusting screw seal with date tag, and the steering gear worm shaft seal and the oil seal steering gear shaft.
The code 19-19-35 is used three places with different part #'s.

[Brillo1974]

Looks like the flat rectangular plate may be what they call the seal w/ date tag steering gear shaft adjusting screw, Chrysler part # 2948 859

http://www.fmmotorparts.com/fmstorefront/federalmogul/en/USD/search?q=%3Aname-asc%3Avehiclesegment%3A1974DodgeChallenger|Passenger+Car+Light+Truck%3Ayear%3A1974DodgeChallenger|1974%3Amake%3A1974DodgeChallenger|Dodge%3Amodel%3A1974DodgeChallenger|Challenger%3Abrand%3ANational&prodCount=20

The 7188S from National that 1 Wild R/T mentioned is shown as the same code number in the parts manual , but different part #  as the steering gear shaft adjusting screw seal with date tag, and the steering gear worm shaft seal and the oil seal steering gear shaft.
The code 19-19-35 is used three places with different part #'s.

This is what I thought that the tag was what pushed down on the seal for the seal on the shaft. I will have to try to tighten it a little and see if it stops the leak. You would have thought that they had pressure tested it when they rebuilt it. I sure don't want to pull it back out again. Thanks for the info!  UPDATE Tightened up the nut about a 3/4 turn and no more leak... this is a good time for a beer! 

[CUDA JAS]

Hmmm....I MAY have a problem here.

So box has been in the car now for a while and I have been trying to finish up some other project prior to firing up the car and testing the steering.

Last night I went to just the cross shaft and I only have a about a 1/2 of a turn of adjustment. My guess is that is a problem.

When I had the shaft out of the box, there was lots of movement, the threaded part went all the way in and all the way out...now not so much.   

I am going to poke around a bit tonight, finishing hooking the steering column up to the box and see if that changes anything.

Maybe it just needs to by run and have fluid out through it to free it up?!?!?! 

Jason




 

[CUDA JAS]

Hmmm....I MAY have a problem here.

So box has been in the car now for a while and I have been trying to finish up some other project prior to firing up the car and testing the steering.

Last night I went to just the cross shaft and I only have a about a 1/2 of a turn of adjustment. My guess is that is a problem.

When I had the shaft out of the box, there was lots of movement, the threaded part went all the way in and all the way out...now not so much.   

I am going to poke around a bit tonight, finishing hooking the steering column up to the box and see if that changes anything.

Maybe it just needs to by run and have fluid out through it to free it up?!?!?! 

Jason

Never mind...move along.... nothing to see here!!!

I put the finishing touches on the install tonight...put the connector on and bolted the column back in...pics later.

I tried adjusting the cross shaft again and then I realized that I painted the box...I put a little more force on the adjustment and sure enough it freed up...it was just painted together.  I now have lots of adjustment there.       

So that seems good.

Just an update on the box itself...again I have not fired the car up yet, but with the wheels off the ground there seems to be a very noticeable center hard spot...a good think I believe.  I think that is from the doubled up reaction springs.  Very anxious to see how it works!!

Jason

[1 Wild R/T]

Actually your center hard spot may be the gear mesh setting being to tight.....  back the screw out & see if the tight spot goes away....   When you first start the car don't reach in through the steering wheel, if the spool valve isn't centered (99.5% chance it isn't) the wheel will spin either right or left till it hits the stop.... If your arm is in the way depending on how far off the adjustment is you could get your arm broken.... Leave the pitman arm off..... Start the engine & if the wheel spins slightly loosen the valve body bolts & tap the valve body forward & rearward till you find the happy spot....  Then set the gear mesh... Steering dead center, missing spline straight up that is the spot the gear mesh is tightest, they are designed that way because on center is the only critical area when your turning external force keeps the lash tight, going straight lash causes wandering so they use a crown mesh gear  (the gear has a slight crown right in the center of it's travel...  So in the center position screw the adjustment in slowly till there is no lash your actually supposed to use an inch pound torque wrench to read the torque it takes to turn over the center tight spot.... If you get it to tight the car won't want to go straight, the gears will jump to either side of the bind.... Slightly loose is easier to drive then slightly tight... When your close I like to drive the car & sneek up on the final adjustment 1/8th turn at a time....

[solarguy]

^^^ very informative post 1WILD

[CUDA JAS]

^^^ very informative post 1WILD

Agreed.  Thanks you for that.

I was aware of the spool valve adjustment...I have heard a few stories.

I did back off the cross shaft adjustment, and sure enough there is no resistance at center.  I will adjust both once I get the car fired back up (no exhaust right now).

[CUDA JAS]

Hey guys,

A quick update...I fired up the car for the first time since installing the rebuilt box and well...no leaks.

I was a little surprised that the steering wheel did not take off one way or the other, no self steering on initial start up or after I got the fluid filled up.

I still have the car up on stands so no road test yet, but hopefully this week.

I think it is working...can see fluid moving in the pump and the wheel spins easier when the car is running as opposed to not.

Looking forward to the road test!

Jason