Not a problem at all, that is what this site and others like are for. Granted, there times people can be short, mean and a bit problematic but in general most are happy to share their passion of the hobby with others.
Re your brakes, remember that the front reservoir of your master cylinder feeds your rear brakes and the rear reservoir your front brakes. I would also recommend purchasing a power bleeder, granted it sounds like there are 2 of you working on the car (normally one person would pump and hold the brakes while the other opens the bleeder valve), but a power bleeder is so much easier and will give you better results. Also and in case you haven't seen/heard it previously, You should bleed your master cylinder (which you can do on the bench) and then you need to bleed the right rear brake first (furthest from the master cylinder), then the left rear, then the right front and then the left front.
I assume you are buying all your lines (I make mine)? Regardless, the line nuts do not have to be "super" tight; yes they have to be tight but not like 2 hands and 1 foot braced on something tight. Sometimes getting the nuts to start can be a challenge, leaving all of the lines loose until all of the nuts are started helps. In other words, just get the nuts started and then go onto the next one, once you have them all started, you then go back and tighten them all. Check them a second time at least to make sure you didn't miss one. You will know as soon as you add pressure (power bleeder or foot method).
Brake lines do not require nor should you use any sealants (Teflon tape, Teflon paste, RTV, etc); the line nut pushes against the flare on the tube and subsequently pushes the brake line flare against the male flare inside of the fixture (master cylinder, valve, etc).
take note of the routing of your front soft/flexible brake lines, there is a right way and wrong way to route them. Do some Google searching and searching on this site for direction.
It isn't hard, just time consuming. Watch where your brake lines are routed even though it is in the stock position to ensure it is away from moving components and the exhaust. If it is near the exhaust and it cannot be moved or you do not want to move it, you need to shield it. Brake fluid can and will boil and you will lose braking capability.
For brake fluid, you have a number of choices DOT 3, 4, 5, ,5.1; each with different attributes (specifically composition and boiling point). Your car used DOT 3 originally which is fine but be cautious with it as it eats paint. If you are interested in one of the other types, do your research so you can make an informed decision. I use 3 in stock cars or cars with existing stock lines, I use DOT 5 in my Cuda and 70 Challenger which I put brand new braking systems since it is silicone based verse glycol based (glycol is hydroscopic meaning it absorbs water from the atmosphere where as silicone is not). That said, DOT 5 is more expensive and not always available and does not (or is not supposed to) be compatible with DOT 3; so if you have an issue along the road with brakes and you cannot find DOT 5, you are hurting. Make sure you buy a brand new big bottle of brake fluid when you begin to bleed the system. You will not use it all, but you do not want to run out in the middle of the process. With DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 they absorb water so you are not supposed to use the fluid once it has been opened and exposed for very long (because there will be moisture in the fluid which will rust all of the steel components and possibly corrode the brake parts such as brake pistons, etc).
Hope this helps.
