ammeter hookup

[droptail]

I have (4) OE 12ga leads that connect to my ammeter, (3) red & (1) black on my '70 Cuda.
I understand that the RED supply goes on the left, the typical Black on the right.

Do the remaining (2) circuits connect to the same stud as the Black on the right as well?
I think I had it 2 & 2, which would mean to me that one circuit isn't going to go thru the ammeter.

thanks

[FY1Cuda]

The car came originally with only one red and one black going to the ammeter.  Someone may have added another red from the battery (or starter relay) to bypass the bulkhead connector. And maybe the third red wire powers a car stereo amp or something like that.  BTW, the back of the ammeter has a "R" and "B" marked on it.

[droptail]

Thanks for the reply.

No, as I stated, all (4) ammeter connections are OE, everything is factory wire harness.
I suspect power top and windows might account for at least (1) of the additional circuits.

The ammeter is only labelled with RED on the back.

If this isn't something that you're not familiar with, what about the theory that the RED +12V supply connects to the indicated side of ammeter, and all load circuits connect to other side?

[FY1Cuda]

I don't have any experience with convertibles or power windows, but it isn't critical that all the circuits go through the ammeter.  A lot of people on this site just connect the red and black wires together (with a nut and screw) and eliminate the 45 year old ammeter from the circuit altogether. The big fat red wire from the starter relay to the ammeter has a fusible link in it, so the circuits are protected to some degree.  Having said that, a lot of people have found wires in their dash harnesses that are all melted together.
I looked at a wiring diagram and see that the power window circuit starts with a red wire from the ammeter.  I don't know about the other black wire you have.  The concern you should have is that there is a lot of draw on the red 12-gauge wire from the starter relay (lights, windows, power top).  The connection at the bulkhead connector (#16 spot) is likely to overheat if you can't get some of the stuff off of that wire. I would recommend running a separate (additional) fused wire to the ammeter connection and putting relays on the headlight and high beam circuits to limit the current going through the dash wiring.

[Racer57]

The Red side of the amp meter supplies power for my clock. That's how it was when I bought the car a few years ago.

Where should the clock power be coming from ?

[1 Wild R/T]

The Red side of the amp meter supplies power for my clock. That's how it was when I bought the car a few years ago.

Where should the clock power be coming from ?

Exactly where it's getting power from

[1 Wild R/T]

I have (4) OE 12ga leads that connect to my ammeter, (3) red & (1) black on my '70 Cuda.
I understand that the RED supply goes on the left, the typical Black on the right.

Do the remaining (2) circuits connect to the same stud as the Black on the right as well?
I think I had it 2 & 2, which would mean to me that one circuit isn't going to go thru the ammeter.

thanks

All three red wires go on the post labeled red... That way the Ammeter doesn't show a huge discharge when you use your windows or power top...

[droptail]

Thanks for the replys. 
I will check this out this weekend and reply.

[droptail]

All three red wires go on the post labeled red... That way the Ammeter doesn't show a huge discharge when you use your windows or power top...

Is this your recommendation or do you know this is how the factory wired it?

thanks

[1 Wild R/T]

Is this your recommendation or do you know this is how the factory wired it?

thanks

Well since I've owned a number of convertibles & since thats how they were wired I'm guessing thats how the factory wired them...

[droptail]

Thats what I was looking for, and thats how I'll put it back together then.

Thanks

edit: FYI   Upon installation, I decided to put the power top eye together with the RED lead on the left post - for ammeter post stress concerns. 

[roadman5312]

    Are the top and power windows active with key off from factory. ??   

[1 Wild R/T]

    Are the top and power windows active with key off from factory. ??   

Top yes
Windows no
I have a jumper on the windows, I like them to work with the key off..

[crackedback]

All three red wires go on the post labeled red... That way the Ammeter doesn't show a huge discharge when you use your windows or power top...

Correct.  They are on the red side of the ammeter.  If you have access to a FSM wiring schematic, it's shows this location as the original attachment points.

If you are interested in taking the loads off your expensive switches, I produce a plug and play relay kit for the power windows and tops.  Works very well. Windows and top pump work faster/more efficiently.