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    Author Topic: Detecting exhaust manifold leak  (Read 5554 times)

    Offline dodj

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    Re: Detecting exhaust manifold leak
    « Reply #15 on: January 18, 2016 - 08:38:53 PM »
    Quote from: TelisSE440 on January 18, 2016 - 02:56:26 PM
    I will try the next time take off my headers, I will use some rtv seal, hope it works.
    You need a gasket with headers.
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    Scott
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    Offline tommyg29

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    Re: Detecting exhaust manifold leak
    « Reply #16 on: July 23, 2016 - 10:28:32 PM »
    Resurrecting this because I had a few things have happened since my last post. Anyway, I finally got around today to pulling the driver side manifold. Probably took me well over an hour between the 6 nuts/studs and the 2 exhaust collector bolts. Started on the rustiest first and they all came off ok which surprised me. The main issue was the coolant draining. I didnt realize that much would drain. It was probably close to a gallon and I had to wait about 30 minutes for the dripping to stop before finishing up.
    Pretty sure it was leaking right under #7. The oil leak probably didnt help the gasket. Got some new bolts and studs and permatex copper silicone gasket maker and hope to put it back together soon, but first the cleanup. Do the studs get blue thread locker or not necessary?
    I Checked my flanges for flatness and I wouldnt say they are laser perfect and also some minor pitting, so I think I will have a shop look at it before bolting it back in.  That gives me time to clean up that side and maybe repaint the driver side and the valve cover too.







    « Last Edit: July 23, 2016 - 10:42:36 PM by tommyg29 »
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    Offline YellowThumper

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    Re: Detecting exhaust manifold leak
    « Reply #17 on: July 23, 2016 - 11:42:39 PM »
    Yep it looks like a leak.

    Yes the factory did not use gaskets. All was assembled with fresh flat machined surfaces mating to flat machined surfaces though.
    BUT once a gasket is used. The ability to warp due to the variations of the maliable gasket has been created.
    The head will remain flat but check the leak area for burnout. Once clean put a straight edge on it and shine a light from below. Should be ok but simple to check.
    Definitely use a straight edge to check manifold also.
    If it checks out flat as in real flat. Use the above mentioned sealer and assemble without gasket.

    If minimal warp is determined then use gasket to seal.
    If area has a burnout centralized in leak area remaining remains the only option.

    Or... you may find your current gasket has a big blowout on it making it an easy decision to replace and move on.
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