Hydroboost parts list and install questions

[dave73chally]

I've read a bunch about hydroboost conversions on here and am planning to buy new for my conversion. This is what I've pieced together so far. What else will I need? Is this a simple bolt on deal?

Hydratech system #3670 with 4' power steering line set:
http://www.hydratechbraking.com/Mopar_E_Body.html

Wilwood master cylinder kit:
http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=261-13270-P

[jimynick]

Why spend so much $? There's an article in either Hot Rod or Car Craft recently about retro fitting hydroboost and if my sieve of a memory holds out, they mentioned that late model Mustangs also use this type of system and I'm sure you could score one a lot less expensively than going aftermarket, with the bonus of knowing that Ford probably spent millions of $ to make sure it works well. Your money, your call though. 

[YellowThumper]

Why spend so much $? There's an article in either Hot Rod or Car Craft recently about retro fitting hydroboost and if my sieve of a memory holds out, they mentioned that late model Mustangs also use this type of system and I'm sure you could score one a lot less expensively than going aftermarket, with the bonus of knowing that Ford probably spent millions of $ to make sure it works well. Your money, your call though. 

Sourced setup from a mid 90s Mustang. New master cylinder just because. I believe they are used with the mod motors because of space issues.

Simple aluminum plate for an adaptor. A few custom p/s and brake lines later...

[dave73chally]

Why spend so much $? There's an article in either Hot Rod or Car Craft recently about retro fitting hydroboost and if my sieve of a memory holds out, they mentioned that late model Mustangs also use this type of system and I'm sure you could score one a lot less expensively than going aftermarket, with the bonus of knowing that Ford probably spent millions of $ to make sure it works well. Your money, your call though. 

Interesting, I'll look for the article. If I don't have to spend as much I won't but with the amount of other upgrades I'm doing, one less thing to modify if the above is bolt on was tempting.

[Cudakiller70]

  this guy needs a soda

[dave73chally]

So I've been looking for astro van hydroobost setups and all the local yards want around $100 for them. I can buy a reconditioned one for $120. Thinking of going that route. Can I reuse my pushrod to brake pedal?

[YellowThumper]

So I've been looking for astro van hydroobost setups and all the local yards want around $100 for them. I can buy a reconditioned one for $120. Thinking of going that route. Can I reuse my pushrod to brake pedal?

Is yours currently a manual or power brake setup?
The power setup uses an intermediate shaft lever setup and manual goes direct to the pedal.
If manual, I believe no you will not use your existing push lever to pedal. The one on back of hydroboost locks in with some type of an internal spring clip. Have heard they can be "popped" out but chose not to on mine.
A firewall spacer plate is required to get system to proper fore/aft position and a sleeve bushing to adapt the larger rod hole to the smaller pedal post.

Mike

[Cudakiller70]

Sourced setup from a mid 90s Mustang. New master cylinder just because. I believe they are used with the mod motors because of space issues.

Simple aluminum plate for an adaptor. A few custom p/s and brake lines later...

So the master cylinder is also mustang?
Did you make the aluminum adaptor yourself?

Is yours currently a manual or power brake setup?
The power setup uses an intermediate shaft lever setup and manual goes direct to the pedal.
If manual, I believe no you will not use your existing push lever to pedal. The one on back of hydroboost locks in with some type of an internal spring clip. Have heard they can be "popped" out but chose not to on mine.
A firewall spacer plate is required to get system to proper fore/aft position and a sleeve bushing to adapt the larger rod hole to the smaller pedal post.

Mike

I currently have power brakes, would I need a sleeve bushing for the brake pedal shaft connection?

[YellowThumper]

So the master cylinder is also mustang?
Did you make the aluminum adaptor yourself?
I currently have power brakes, would I need a sleeve bushing for the brake pedal shaft connection?

Yes, all you see is for the Mustang.
Yes I made the adaptor. All it is is an aluminum plate with the necessary holes. Real simple. I also am using its factory plate.aluminum is sandwiched in between. Firewall has two sets of holes. Upper for power unit and the manual setup used the lower. My setup is somewhat unique because I chose to mount my setup with the upper pattern. More room for my turbo headers and 3" exhaust. Using upper pattern I positioned it to use the powers pivot shaft on pedal mechanism. This required shortening the push rod on back of hydro. I welded mine but have heard of people adapting a threaded clevis eye.
Mounted in lower portion is the norm and I believe is even simpler and may not require shortening of the shaft. I suspect that yes you will need a bushing for the eye end.


As I have told many. I would do this conversion again. No regrets on it. But as with most conversions it is not just a bolt and go setup. Not dificult but needs some fabbing.

Mike

[Cudakiller70]

Yes, all you see is for the Mustang.
Yes I made the adaptor. All it is is an aluminum plate with the necessary holes. Real simple. I also am using its factory plate.aluminum is sandwiched in between. Firewall has two sets of holes. Upper for power unit and the manual setup used the lower. My setup is somewhat unique because I chose to mount my setup with the upper pattern. More room for my turbo headers and 3" exhaust. Using upper pattern I positioned it to use the powers pivot shaft on pedal mechanism. This required shortening the push rod on back of hydro. I welded mine but have heard of people adapting a threaded clevis eye.
Mounted in lower portion is the norm and I believe is even simpler and may not require shortening of the shaft. I suspect that yes you will need a bushing for the eye end.


As I have told many. I would do this conversion again. No regrets on it. But as with most conversions it is not just a bolt and go setup. Not dificult but needs some fabbing.

Mike

Thanks Mike, sounds very doable almost easy. Seems like the only thing I would have to figure out is the pedal shaft. I see the rod eye your talking about, got a picture from rockauto $226 for a new motorcraft unit 99-04.
Power steering hoses weren't a big deal either just T them in?

[YellowThumper]

For me the other added "clearance" benifit is that the whole unit (factory mounting) is rotated 90 degrees compared to all the others I have seen. Counter clockwise from drivers seat. You can see the canister on upper portion istead of lower quadrant. Master cylinder mounting bolts are up and down also. But... with it being for mustang I am sure there are plenty of varient options out there. Always thought the Chevy m/cylinders are uuugly.
Power steering hoses are custom. Primary pressure line goes from p/s pump to hydro unit. (Brakes first for safety) 2nd pressure line goes from hydro to steering gear box. Low pressure return line from hydro (just a clamp on hose) "T's" into steering box return line hose.

Issues with every premade hose is to get the fittings clocked correctly. I have 90 deg sweeps on both ends of mine. There was a place fairly local to me I got them from. Bought the fittings and the hoses separate. Took them home. Mounted the fittings and figured out the length and routing of hoses. Then used a paint marker and drew a line along fitting and hose. Took them back and they were crimped on oriented to the markings. The fitting on the gear box is somewhat unique and not all places will have one to fit. I removed mine and replaced it with one that has the more common tapered seal. All my hose ends are 90s. I do however wish the uppermost one on the unit was a 120 deg. It would tuck in better.
If you want any specific pictures let me know and I can snap some.
Above all (true to my efforts on this car) it all mounted without any additional holes in car needed.

Mike

[Chryco Psycho]

The other way to do this is to Tee both lines so you have equal pressure from the pump to both brakes & steering & then Tee the return also rather then inline