electronic distributor modified

[chargerdon]

Hi, Im installing a rebuilt 360 (76 vintage) into my 74 challenger.   The engine came out of a 71 dart but had never been on the road.   

The electronic distributor that came with the engine has a tag on it that reads "3656763" and I do NOT know what brand it is.   The ECU that came with the car says on it "WELLS".   

Now the question is someone modified the pigtail on the distributor...   see the picture.   They cut off the black wire coming out before it goes into the 2 wire trailer type connector that would have plugged into the wire harness, and put on ring connector.   They also tapped into the red wire and put in a spade connector.   See the picture.   

Now my question is does anyone know why someone would do this modification, and if so where would the wires go??   Or should i cut this all off and put in a new 2 wire trailer connector and connect it to the wiring harness as it came from the factory???   

[Chryco Psycho]

The 2 wires in question are both connected to the ECU which feeds power to the dist  & the signal is read by the ECU , so adding the correct plug back on to the dist makes sense . no clue what they were trying to accomplish with the connectors   

[mopar jack]

Get a new pick-up coil and it will have the correct connector.

[Chryco Psycho]

or that !
 

[chargerdon]

I bought a new (trailer) connector for $2.95 at Carquest and soldered in the wires.   Back to stock.     Got her to fire up and run over the weekend, so i have the timing set somewhat close and obviously since she ran the wiring harness is hooked up at least mostly correct. 

The bad is that she only ran for about 15 seconds before the carb overflowed out the vent ports (edelbrock 1406 carb).   Took the carb apart and it was full of fuel white and gum deposits..   including stuck metering rods.   So..bought a rebuild kit and have a buddy totally disassemble it and have it soaking for a couple of days in carb cleaner solution.   Hope to have it back together and on the car for this weekend.   

[Chryco Psycho]

 

[chargerdon]

Ok, Got the rebuilt carb (edlebrock 1406) back and onto the car.   Got it to start and run but couldn't get a good "idle".   So had to give it more gas than i wanted and then started using the timing light and set it at about 10-15 BTDC and could see the mechanical advance moving it.  So with FAST idle it think that is a good setting.   Still I have to give it decent amount of gas to keep her running.

I never got the idle slow enough to adjust the idle fuel mixture screws.    Have them set at about 2 turns from bottom.   The engine has a BIG cam in it a mopar performance 508 which has a 292 duration.   I guess Ill have a lot of playing with the carb to get a decent idle.   From what i read with a cam that big, i might have to keep the idle at 1000 rpm or greater.   

Put a vacuum gauge on it and she pulls at the fast idle about 14 PSI but it bounces about 2 psi up and down, so that is a little low but i guess pretty good for this cam.   If anyone has any suggestions on how to set up this engine with this big cam i'm all ears.     

[1 Wild R/T]

Get a new pick-up coil and it will have the correct connector.

Yup, & set the air gap at .007..

[Chryco Psycho]

the edelbrick will be tough with low vacuum  , you need the lightest spring possible under the meter rods to keep them down , the hr part is thereis no way to adjust the bleed size , this is where the Holley HP & Proform & QF carbs have the big advantage  the bleeds are removable .
 You will need to drill holes in the throttle plates to get enough air flow but still cover the idle transfer slots so the mixture screws will work .
 Set the float level a little high 3/8 " or so helps . I usualy drill holes in the counter weights for the seondary door this will allow it to open faster as there is no spring adjustment .