Resto Mod 1973 Barracuda round 2

[70chall440]

Thanks Ironman.  That picture confirms that my plate needs to move forward about a half inch.  I have a small lift on one side of the hood and I figured it was the cover and I have the same corner to adjust.  The seal is tapered so I was thinking that I need to get more surface touching the hood.  This is not a ram hood so I'm thinking that any seal will work to keep the warm air away.

70chall440, of course my friend.  I was waiting until I had this closer to completion to send you an e-mail.  I really went backyard fabricator on this one.  You'll probably laugh at how I accomplished the taper around the carburater.

Redo - I am all about back yard fabrication  I have been thinking about doing this for a very long time and since I now have quite a lot of tools, I think I can make something pretty decent. I just cannot see paying $700 for an aircleaner base. I paid $400 for an entire original single 4BBL fresh air system (think 69 or 70 roadrunner). If I could get a AAR base for say $300/$400 I might consider it, but after seeing what you guys are doing I am back to making my own. I really look forward to seeing your pictures.

[IRON MAN]

I believe this to be a factory air-box plate mounted to an AAR hood. This was to seal the 'single carb' (required by the SCCA rule book) to the f'glass hood. 

[redo1973]

Thanks Iron Man.  I'll keep this for future fabrication.

70Chall440 - -I remember your search and I tried the same but that fiberglass item is not available.  There are repop 6 pack base plates at $300 but then these need modification for the 4 barrel.  Here are some pictures of where I am at.  I've seen your skills and am sure that you can build upon this. I started a template with 22 gauge to get general measurements.  I was going to use 16 gauge but it tweaked quite a bit when I bent the taper for the carburater. 

[redo1973]

Okay, so I knew the 16 gauge would like flex but it was too much to recover from as I bent the sides for the lip and the taper I put in raised it too high so I had to reverse the taper up to drop the base and then I added a small ring to get the correct clearance.  As you can see, I did alot of the work with a 20 ton hand press.  I then made a plywood form to keep the sheet flat.  In the end I still needed to add those rails to flatten the plate.  It's really not that heavy.

[redo1973]

One more thing,  this is custom to a Holley 750 CFM four barrel with a 1 inch spacer.  I built in about a 1.75 inch pitch from back to front to match the hood pitch. I still need to tweak this and do final "detail" work to clean-up for my rudimentary techniques before painting.  Notice that I used tabbed toilet anchors for the lid studs but I may weld studs for the final.  Again, I used 14 gauge for rigidity when the motor shakes and to keep the seal. Now that I've seen what Ironman posted I may have chosen fabricating that 

[70chall440]

That is some awesome work I must say. As I think you know, in my application I will be doing a 6 pack base. I have thought about this from several sides; I have a fiberglass 6 pack base which I could modify but I actually dont want to do that. I could buy any 6 pack base and modify that which would work or I can do as you have done and fabricate the entire thing. I have some time as I am deep into electrical at the moment. 

[redo1973]

I could have kept playing with different designs but this seemed the most versatile for my application.  I tried to follow images on line to replicate other manufactured designs but I did not have the appropriate English wheel and such to bend or shape the material. I'm looking forward to see what you come up with Your worked inspired me to give this a shot.  Let me know if you want further information.

[70chall440]

I could have kept playing with different designs but this seemed the most versatile for my application.  I tried to follow images on line to replicate other manufactured designs but I did not have the appropriate English wheel and such to bend or shape the material. I'm looking forward to see what you come up with Your worked inspired me to give this a shot.  Let me know if you want further information.

I am humbled, I will definitely post pictures as I go. I need to figure out the various heights. The indentation to lower the filter over the carbs (throttle bodies in my case) is the hard part as you overcame with your press. This is the one thing I have been thinking about how to overcome.

[70chall440]

I am going to have to disappoint some here; I just found out that Year One is selling a fiberglass AAR/TA base for like $134....   

[redo1973]

That's cool.  I have a four barrel and I've not found the fiberglass base plate that was once produced in limited quantities for the 340/440. My other challenge is that the carburator is not at a normal height. Please let me know if you get this one.  At that price, I'm thinking that I could modify it for the four barrel. 

[70chall440]

I ordered it this morning and Y1 sent me a confirmation so I am thinking its coming.

So I did some searching and Y1 does have single 4bbl fiberglass bases; https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/aa5069#prettyPhoto you could buy both and graft the 4bbl center into the AAR outer. Yes it would still cost about $250 but a lot better than even just a steel AAR ($800).

[redo1973]

Thanks for the information.  BTW - I don't recall if you finished your headliner but here are a few pictures of mine. You'll notice that I did not install the seatbelt clips above the doors.  I chose to use a modern 3 point retractable seat belt for the front seat. Also,  I wrapped the package tray in the same vinyl as the seats.  This made a clean transition from the sail panels.  I put in 6x9 speakers with flat grills that allow for mounting the speaker below the surface of the tray. I'll provide pictures later.

[redo1973]

A couple pictures of the repainted grill after I fixed a crack in the middle.  I ended up heating a metal screen into the plastic and then seal the crack with the repair kit.  I then filed down the excess plastic.  I now need to address the headlight bezels.  I'm undecided if I should buy aftermarket replacements or try to restore these.  I have some pitting on the chromed portions.  Has anyone had these rechromed?

[70chall440]

Awesome pictures and you are right, I have not finished my headliner. I got "redirected" to the wiring which I have been focused on. the pictures of the sail panels are of great help. Like you, I am going to be using a modern 3 point seat belt system. I am not planning on installing the coat hooks but now I am wondering if I need to in order to hold the panels in.

Your car is coming along nicely for sure.

[redo1973]

Thanks.  The coat hooks pulled the panel in.  As you'll see, the panel fills that curve of the B Pillar.  We also used adhesive and velcro to pull it in.  The interior quarter plastic helps with the bend because it is screwed into the bracket and the quarter window.  Finally, the window trim will overlap and secure it as well.  I suggest dry fitting to see if you can get that top edge to a position to your liking.

This detail process is slow going.  My son is still working the electrical.  It is fully custom so he, like you, is making every connection and reusing fixtures.  It's only slow because he lives three hours away.  We should be ready for spring.  Right now I'm trying to determine what to do with my two speed wiper motor.  I've restored it and I know that it spins with power.  We've just not yet seen it "park" on off yet.  I have a few options but prefer not to buy another.  We'll see.