IS THIS A HOLLEY 650 DOUBLE PUMPER?

[70 Grand Coupe]

I will post a few pics below. As stated in a previous post, I have a mild 318 in my 70 Cuda. It has about 74K miles and when the car was being restored in 2008, the previous owner stated the bottom end was checked and good to go  . At that time there was a bigger cam, aluminum heads and the 4bbl intake and Holley carb installed. Car has a stock 904 and 8 3/4 non sure grip.

I am trying to problem solve the car running like crap when accelerating. I received from great feedback but I have a few questions specific to the carb. I believe my carb is a Holley 650.

Q1: Is this a 650 CFM double pumper?
Q2: Does it have a mechanical secondary or vacuum secondary? There is a rubber plug on what appears to be a vac line port on the rear of the carb body.
Q3: Can this carb have an electric choke added to it? I cannot see any provisions for it on the fuel inlet side.
Q4: If I was to replace the carb, what would you recommend for a good replacement carb? I have researched the Holley 650 cfm double pumper, electric choke, mechanical secondary. Is this a good carb for my set up?
Q5: Finally, can you see if there chrysler kick down lever on this carb? I cannot for the life of me, be able to source what one looks like?

Thanks for y'alls help again!

Darcy
 

[70 Grand Coupe]

 If you look at the pics below, you will see that I have a SUMMIT RACING STREET SCOOP. This scoop came off my 1st 70 Grand Coupe with a 440. I have installed on the 318, but I would like to know if it should be higher out of the hood? Right now I have a 3/4" spacer, would a 2" spacer be too much? Will that effect the performance of the carb? Finally, does anyone have any pics of their similar hood scoops for reference?


Thank you again.

Darcy

[brads70]

I will post a few pics below. As stated in a previous post, I have a mild 318 in my 70 Cuda. It has about 74K miles and when the car was being restored in 2008, the previous owner stated the bottom end was checked and good to go  . At that time there was a bigger cam, aluminum heads and the 4bbl intake and Holley carb installed. Car has a stock 904 and 8 3/4 non sure grip.

I am trying to problem solve the car running like crap when accelerating. I received from great feedback but I have a few questions specific to the carb. I believe my carb is a Holley 650.

Q1: Is this a 650 CFM double pumper?
Q2: Does it have a mechanical secondary or vacuum secondary? There is a rubber plug on what appears to be a vac line port on the rear of the carb body.
Q3: Can this carb have an electric choke added to it? I cannot see any provisions for it on the fuel inlet side.
Q4: If I was to replace the carb, what would you recommend for a good replacement carb? I have researched the Holley 650 cfm double pumper, electric choke, mechanical secondary. Is this a good carb for my set up?
Q5: Finally, can you see if there chrysler kick down lever on this carb? I cannot for the life of me, be able to source what one looks like?

Thanks for y'alls help again!

Darcy
 

Q1 not sure, usually on the choke horn is a number to check but yours has no choke horn
Q2 Vac secondary, not a double pumper
Q3 no, there is no choke horn for a choke
Q4 I have a quickfuel and REALLY like it ( proform is the same company) Every orifice that meters fuel or air is adjustable
Q5 Unless you have all the parts ( it appears you do?)and are concerned about originality , I'd use the Lokar set up , I found it to be much easier.
I suspect someone had bought a ( proform?) center section and used the rest of a 3310? carb to "make" this carb?

[RzeroB]

Holley 4-barrel carbs can loosely be separated into two basic groups - 4150 type double-pumpers; and 4160 type vacuum secondaries. The vacuum diaphram attached to the secondaries linkage on your carb indicates that this is a 4160 type carb. The CFM size of the carb is indicated by its "list number" (model number) which is typically a four digit number like 3310, 4776, etc. The "list number" is found in one of two places - on carbs with a choke horn it is stamped into the choke horn; and on carbs without a choke horn is is stamped into the main body behind the throttle linkage. Since yours doesn't have a choke horn, it should be stamped into the main body behind the throttle linkage but I cant see it because there is some kind of a odd rectangular polished "mirror" there (what is that?). Look around on that side of the main body to see if you can find a four digit number. However, the list number may be a moot point because as Brad said, your carb appears to be a mash-up of parts because the center main body looks newer, lighter and shinier than the rest of the parts. As for the Mopar kickdown linkage adapter, yes your carb has it. It is the "U-shaped" bracket bolted on to your throttle linkage. Your throttle cable goes on the small stud on the inside and the kickdown linkage goes on the larger stud on the outside. Finally, there are lots of good videos on YouTube and such as to how to ID the different types of Holley carbs and how they work - might be worth checking them out.

[Chryco Psycho]

To look right I would raise the scoop so the bottom lip of the opening is above the hood level

[1 Wild R/T]

Holley 4-barrel carbs can loosely be separated into two basic groups - 4150 type double-pumpers; and 4160 type vacuum secondaries. The vacuum diaphram attached to the secondaries linkage on your carb indicates that this is a 4160 type carb. The CFM size of the carb is indicated by its "list number" (model number) which is typically a four digit number like 3310, 4776, etc. The "list number" is found in one of two places - on carbs with a choke horn it is stamped into the choke horn; and on carbs without a choke horn is is stamped into the main body behind the throttle linkage. Since yours doesn't have a choke horn, it should be stamped into the main body behind the throttle linkage but I cant see it because there is some kind of a odd rectangular polished "mirror" there (what is that?). Look around on that side of the main body to see if you can find a four digit number. However, the list number may be a moot point because as Brad said, your carb appears to be a mash-up of parts because the center main body looks newer, lighter and shinier than the rest of the parts. As for the Mopar kickdown linkage adapter, yes your carb has it. It is the "U-shaped" bracket bolted on to your throttle linkage. Your throttle cable goes on the small stud on the inside and the kickdown linkage goes on the larger stud on the outside. Finally, there are lots of good videos on YouTube and such as to how to ID the different types of Holley carbs and how they work - might be worth checking them out.

Just correcting a little misinformation...    The difference between 4150 and 4160 is with the secondary meetering plate/meetering block. The 4150 has a meetering block with replaceable jets. The 4160 has just a meetering plate and no jets. Most 4150s are double pumpers (mechanical secondaries), and most 4160s are vacuum secondaries, but they are not mutually exclusive.

And if theres a question, your carb is a 4160 as it has no metering block in the rear..

[jhaag]

FWIW. I don't mean to offend you, but it appears you have minimal knowledge in mechanics/carbs. Given this, my suggestion to you would be to sell that carb, and buy a new 1, so you know what you have. The one you are using currently is not useable if you need a choke. It may also be modified internally, more for race use, than street use. You could measure the throttle bores and have a better idea what it may be. There could be some identifying numbers on the base plate assembly as well, but remember some base plates were used on several different size carbs. To answer the spacer question, yes spacer sizes make a huge difference in performance. Based on your current intake if you go from a 3/4" to 2" you will most likely not be happy. Keep it simple and keep learning. Good luck!

[Chryco Psycho]

Or you can do what most of have done & work with this carb & learn how to make them work , there is a tuning guide in the archives you have to follow step by step , doing things out of order will affect other settings .

[HP_Cuda]

 

Best way is to tear one apart and rebuild it. Once you have done this you know the magic.

It's really not that complicated. 

[734406pk]

Best way is to tear one apart and rebuild it. Once you have done this you know the magic.
It's really not that complicated. 

Holley carb tuning is a valuable skill to learn if you like old school muscle cars. It's not that complicated at all. Just learn each circuit and experiment. A wideband AFR meter is extremely helpful in tuning these days. It will save a ton of time and money. A worthy investment 

[70 Grand Coupe]

Ended up installing a new Edelbrock 650cfm AVS Thunder, electric choke and vacuum secondaries. Figured out he transmission kick down lever......it was there the whole time lol!  Had to retard the timing to 10* BTDC to get her dialled in.

Installed a 2" spacer today to lift the air scoop the additional 1 1/4" needed for the bottom of the scoop to meet the hood line. Sweet!  :drooling bounce:. Wasn't able to fire her up cuz the rad is in repair shop.



Thank you everyone for your feedback and advise, it is much appreciated! 


Darcy

 

[dfrazz]

   One suggestion, paint your kick down linkage.  Maybe black or purple to match your car, but that red stands out.