70 BARRACUDA OPEN/CLOSED SYSTEM **LEAKS GALORE**

[70 Grand Coupe]

Had my OEM 22" radiator repaired at a local shop. I told the dude that it was an open system and was operating normally and that I did not have a recovery bottle etc. He told me since I had a rubber on the bottom of my cap, it was a closed system. He is by far the best radiator repair shop in our area, so I took his word for it.

Bear in mind that in 2008 when my car was having body work done on it prior to me purchasing it, the 318 had an Edelbrock RPM intake, 340/360 cam and then the car sat in a heated building until I bought it in July/15.

After the repair (brand new OEM 3 row core with original tanks) I installed an aftermarket stainless steel recovery system along with the radiator. Wouldn't you know, my water pump and lower rad hose began to leak. I called the due back and he stated if the system was open and I added the recovery system, once it pressures up that the water pump may start to leak, I.e. normal if the car sat for that many yrs.

I am not sure how to proceed from here. Of course I plan on replacing the water pump and lower and upper rad hose. Do I keep it a closed system or convert it back to open?

Your advise and feedback is appreciated.

Regards,

Darcy

 

[cudabob496]

I use this stuff.  Start out with half dose to see if it works.

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=aluma-seal&view=detailv2&&id=5D83F79D919E3CECF2D0E53DDFA961EEB2E54CA9&selectedIndex=11&ccid=oV2pIMXm&simid=608024167195806800&thid=OIP.Ma15da920c5e6235665215223c6908c7bo0&ajaxhist=0

[Chryco Psycho]

open & closed should operate exactly the same assuming you are using the correct cap to allow coolant back in as it cools off  .

[70chall440]

  generally on a closed system it is the cap and recovery system that make it "closed". Sure, radiators can flow in different directions to a degree but I cannot imagine some design difference in the cores. Bottom line, none of this should have an effect on your WP or make I leak... UNLESS you are running a high pressure cap. It you are running a high pressure cap then when the pressure builds it has to go somewhere. I believe a cap for a closed system is different than an open system, perhaps that is your issue.

[cudabob496]

I think the 16 pound cap I used for my open system, is the one I am still using for my closed system
reconfiguration. But did the mod a year ago, so not 100% sure.

[73440]

Is the difference in a open or closed the presence or absence of the spring?

http://www.coolcatcorp.com/Radiator%20Caps/Radiatorcaps.html

[tman]

I see several factors on your issue.  Radiator cap working properly and psi rating?  Keep it at about 16lb no more.  Is it coincidence the leaks are occurring because it sat for a long period?  Lower radiator hose clamps need to be tightened or there is a hole on the hose?  Where exactly it is leaking at the wp?   Does recovery tank have coolant in it to see if overflow is going to it?  Should be no issue having a recovery system.  It does keep air out of the radiator.  Here is more info on caps.

http://www.allpar.com/fix/engines/cooling-caps.html

[70 Grand Coupe]

I appreciate y'alls replies, thanks a bunch. UPDATE: I tried adding the coolant stop leak yesterday and damn near had her licked, however, there was one pesky area at the bottom of the WP, dripping down onto the harmonic balancer. So I grabbed a new WP from NAPA and began the R&R.

Now my problem is, the (2) LONG BOLTS THAT GO THROUGH THE WATER JACKET DO NOT WANT TO THREAD IN!  I have read somewhere there should be some compound added to the threads and locktite etc. Any advice?

Darcy

[70chall440]

Gently use a tap to clean out the threads. Don't force it or cross thread it.

[roadman5312]

generally on a closed system it is the cap and recovery system that make it "closed". Sure, radiators can flow in different directions to a degree but I cannot imagine some design difference in the cores. Bottom line, none of this should have an effect on your WP or make I leak... UNLESS you are running a high pressure cap. It you are running a high pressure cap then when the pressure builds it has to go somewhere. I believe a cap for a closed system is different than an open system, perhaps that is your issue.

                   As emissions regulations increased, the use of computer controls and catalitic converters became the norm, they had to find a way to make engines run hotter. Closed cooling systems are designed to eliminate any air from the cooling system, which raises the boiling point. It's not unuaual for modern cars to run @ 240 degrees coolant temp.

[usraptr]

First of all it's not uncommon for WPs to start to leak after a leaking radiator or radiator cap has been replaced.  This even happens on cars that have been driven right up to the replacement of these items.  It shouldn't make any difference whether it's a closed or open system.  When you bring the system up to proper operating pressure it will fail at the weakest link, if there is one.

Re the bolts, I'm not sure on this, depending on which engine you have, I believe, I'm not positive on this, that when you remove that WP bolt on the passenger side of the car,  that the arm that runs off the cam and operates the mechanical fuel pump, can drop down, out of position.  This may interfer with replacing the bolt.  Again, not positive on this.  Hopefully somebody else with more knowledge on this can chime in. 

[Chryco Psycho]

You need sealant on the long bolts Liquid teflon pipe sealer works great or teflon tape with sealer , not sure why the bolts wlll not start though , lean the threads & test the bolts check for damage due to corrosion on the threads