Author Topic: High Perf. Mechanical vs Electric Fuel pump  (Read 7469 times)

Offline 70chall440

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Re: High Perf. Mechanical vs Electric Fuel pump
« Reply #15 on: March 22, 2016 - 01:17:34 PM »
I used to run a low end Holley electric pump back by my tank as a "pusher" because my Challenger sits a lot and it was always such a pain to get it started after storage. I removed it because I was having electrical issues where the battery would go dead even after driving the car. I got it into my head that the pump was putting a large draw on the battery; however after I removed the pump I figured out that the battery sucked and the charge wire on the alternator was not even close to being tight. I might put it back on as it is nice to allow it to pump fuel to the mech pump prior to starting.
Current Mopar
70 Challenger RT 440-6 EFI, 73 Cuda 416-6 EFI
05 Hemi Durango, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 Ram 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger 6 spd RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR (under const)
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9 x Challengers. AAR Cuda, 4 RR, 2 GTX, 4 Chargers, etc... (too many to list)




Offline cudabob496

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Re: High Perf. Mechanical vs Electric Fuel pump
« Reply #16 on: March 22, 2016 - 04:50:50 PM »
I've read that for a fuel pump, flowrate is equally as important
as pressure.

If you are running out of gas at the end of a quarter mile, you can also
had bigger bowls to your carb.
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline JMB340Challenger

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Re: High Perf. Mechanical vs Electric Fuel pump
« Reply #17 on: March 22, 2016 - 05:33:19 PM »
Can I use a mechanical pump with 3/8 fittings with 5/16 fuel line? I realize my flow will be only as good as a 5/16 line, but I'm trying to pace my upgrades as money allows.
1970 Challenger. 11:1 340 .030 over 2.02/1.60 Ported 915s, Harland Sharp roller rockers, Victor 340 intake, Holley 750 mech secondary DP, 232/242@ .050 .528 hyd cam, MSD 6AL, MSD mech advance distributor, full manual reverse valve body 727 3500 stall, 8 3/4 489 w/ 4.10s, Truetrac differential

Offline dodj

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Re: High Perf. Mechanical vs Electric Fuel pump
« Reply #18 on: March 22, 2016 - 06:01:25 PM »
It may be as simple as your fuel filter not being up to the task. At WOT it may just not be able to allow the fuel to flow fast enough to keep the bowls full, and you are slowly losing fuel bowl level during your run.  :2cents:
Scott
1973 Challenger  440 4 spd 
2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
Good friends don't let friends do stupid things. ........alone.

Offline 70chall440

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Re: High Perf. Mechanical vs Electric Fuel pump
« Reply #19 on: March 22, 2016 - 06:02:03 PM »
Can I use a mechanical pump with 3/8 fittings with 5/16 fuel line? I realize my flow will be only as good as a 5/16 line, but I'm trying to pace my upgrades as money allows.

Yes you can definitely adapt a 3/8 to 5/16
Current Mopar
70 Challenger RT 440-6 EFI, 73 Cuda 416-6 EFI
05 Hemi Durango, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 Ram 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger 6 spd RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR (under const)
Past Mopars
9 x Challengers. AAR Cuda, 4 RR, 2 GTX, 4 Chargers, etc... (too many to list)

Offline 70chall440

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Re: High Perf. Mechanical vs Electric Fuel pump
« Reply #20 on: March 22, 2016 - 06:04:16 PM »
It may be as simple as your fuel filter not being up to the task. At WOT it may just not be able to allow the fuel to flow fast enough to keep the bowls full, and you are slowly losing fuel bowl level during your run.  :2cents:

 :iagree: You also want to check float levels; for street driving it isn't as critical but if it is on the low side to start with, at WOT it could be emptying the bowels faster than they can fill up if they are starting low. The filter is a good place to look, many are very restrictive.
Current Mopar
70 Challenger RT 440-6 EFI, 73 Cuda 416-6 EFI
05 Hemi Durango, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 Ram 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger 6 spd RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR (under const)
Past Mopars
9 x Challengers. AAR Cuda, 4 RR, 2 GTX, 4 Chargers, etc... (too many to list)

Offline JMB340Challenger

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Re: High Perf. Mechanical vs Electric Fuel pump
« Reply #21 on: March 22, 2016 - 06:11:48 PM »
Yes you can definitely adapt a 3/8 to 5/16
Ok cool, just wanted to make sure the 3/8 orifice in the fuel pumps wouldn't be trying to draw more than can be supplied by 5/16 line and damage the pump.
1970 Challenger. 11:1 340 .030 over 2.02/1.60 Ported 915s, Harland Sharp roller rockers, Victor 340 intake, Holley 750 mech secondary DP, 232/242@ .050 .528 hyd cam, MSD 6AL, MSD mech advance distributor, full manual reverse valve body 727 3500 stall, 8 3/4 489 w/ 4.10s, Truetrac differential

Offline 70chall440

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Re: High Perf. Mechanical vs Electric Fuel pump
« Reply #22 on: March 22, 2016 - 06:12:42 PM »
No, it will be fine.
Current Mopar
70 Challenger RT 440-6 EFI, 73 Cuda 416-6 EFI
05 Hemi Durango, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 Ram 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger 6 spd RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR (under const)
Past Mopars
9 x Challengers. AAR Cuda, 4 RR, 2 GTX, 4 Chargers, etc... (too many to list)

Offline roadman5312

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Re: High Perf. Mechanical vs Electric Fuel pump
« Reply #23 on: March 22, 2016 - 07:02:48 PM »
                   I remember a tip an old timer gave me back in my drag racing days.  Put a couple large in line fuel filters in line up by the carb(s).  preferably above the level of carb inlets.

Offline 70chall440

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Re: High Perf. Mechanical vs Electric Fuel pump
« Reply #24 on: March 22, 2016 - 07:20:05 PM »
Can I use a mechanical pump with 3/8 fittings with 5/16 fuel line? I realize my flow will be only as good as a 5/16 line, but I'm trying to pace my upgrades as money allows.

know the feeling.
Current Mopar
70 Challenger RT 440-6 EFI, 73 Cuda 416-6 EFI
05 Hemi Durango, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 Ram 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger 6 spd RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR (under const)
Past Mopars
9 x Challengers. AAR Cuda, 4 RR, 2 GTX, 4 Chargers, etc... (too many to list)

Offline brads70

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Re: High Perf. Mechanical vs Electric Fuel pump
« Reply #25 on: March 22, 2016 - 08:39:25 PM »
                   I remember a tip an old timer gave me back in my drag racing days.  Put a couple large in line fuel filters in line up by the carb(s).  preferably above the level of carb inlets.

That's similar to what I was thinking..... what about a fuel log between the carb and fuel pump?

If your going to consider an electric pump DON'T get a Holley style, they are crazy noisy!  :pullinghair:  I have a Mallory pump and it's MUCH quieter.  :2thumbs:  These are all bandaid solutions for not having a big enough fuel supply line though.
« Last Edit: March 22, 2016 - 08:43:23 PM by brads70 »
Brad
1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
Barrie,Ontario,Canada
Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

My restoration thread 
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
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http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0

Offline mopar jack

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Re: High Perf. Mechanical vs Electric Fuel pump
« Reply #26 on: March 22, 2016 - 09:39:40 PM »
Reading through this thread I got to ask did you race this combo before and did it run ok before? Not knowing your  engine specs  the motor could just be floating valves at 6000 rpm or if you have a vacuum secondary carb it may not be opening at the top end of the track. I would hope it's not lack of fuel cause running lean can cause serious problems.

Offline JMB340Challenger

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Re: High Perf. Mechanical vs Electric Fuel pump
« Reply #27 on: March 23, 2016 - 12:10:08 AM »
Reading through this thread I got to ask did you race this combo before and did it run ok before? Not knowing your  engine specs  the motor could just be floating valves at 6000 rpm or if you have a vacuum secondary carb it may not be opening at the top end of the track. I would hope it's not lack of fuel cause running lean can cause serious problems.
It pulls great through 6000 in 1st and 2nd gear. It's not quite making it to 6k in 3rd... It's closer to 5000 at almost the 1/8th mile when it loses power. From there it's an easy evening drive through the traps lol. Good thought though, thanks for the input!
1970 Challenger. 11:1 340 .030 over 2.02/1.60 Ported 915s, Harland Sharp roller rockers, Victor 340 intake, Holley 750 mech secondary DP, 232/242@ .050 .528 hyd cam, MSD 6AL, MSD mech advance distributor, full manual reverse valve body 727 3500 stall, 8 3/4 489 w/ 4.10s, Truetrac differential

Offline cudabob496

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Re: High Perf. Mechanical vs Electric Fuel pump
« Reply #28 on: March 23, 2016 - 01:19:57 AM »
                   I remember a tip an old timer gave me back in my drag racing days.  Put a couple large in line fuel filters in line up by the carb(s).  preferably above the level of carb inlets.

would reduce pressure
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline YellowThumper

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Re: High Perf. Mechanical vs Electric Fuel pump
« Reply #29 on: March 23, 2016 - 10:51:37 AM »
would reduce pressure
X2 on this.
And functionally a log (or fuel filters) above the carb may work but you now run the risk of fuel draining from it over filling bowls and elsware.

My 2c is to install a pressure gauge. Low cost option that will show difinitively if you are losing pressure. Pull pick up tube and ensure sock is not clogged. No cost there. Purchase 3/8 pick up tube for the tank. Now you have a new gasket to use with the option to go larger in future.
If sock is clean get new mechanical high volume pump. Test again. If still losing pressure at top end. Change pick up tube and remaining feed line.
Low dollar options first then work your way up.

Another thing mentioned was carb setup. The lower gears of 1st and 2nd will not load your engine the same as the higher 3rd gear will. Test different jetting and see if anything changes. Issue could be there in all gears but masked by the higher gear set but lower load.
Removing the warning labels one at a time.
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