tear down instructions for front drum to disc?

[DadsCuda]

I have searched high and low for a good video to ease my worried mind about swapping out my old 67 barracuda control arms, etc with the new stuff that came with my disc brake conversion kit. there's not really any that start with my set up...their conversions are pretty straight forward. has any one seen a good video? or is anyone here super amazing at written instructions? i am not confidant enough to just go in and start taking parts out...unless, that's really all there is to it. i hear about 'taking tension off the torsion bar' and i don't really know how to do that. i just don't want anything to get pulled our bent out of whack because of my inexperience and lack of knowledge. i'm taking advantage of this cold snap and extra 'first day of spring' snow to do some research
as always, any help is appreciated with this front drum to disc swap on my '67.

[shawge]

  First thing I'd do is download the FSMs at mymopar.com if don't have one handy
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

Which kit is it?  Wilwood, DrDiff, SSBC,

[jimynick]

The torsion bar adjusters are in the middle of the lower control arm and have a hex head. They've been known to seize up, so looking at where they enter the threaded block and soaking them with penetrant would be a start. If have one and are good with it, an oxy/acetylene torch with about a #4 tip applied judiciously  and sufficiently can be your friend. Once you get them to move, undo them nearly  completely. This is based upon the car being lifted and properly supported- SAFETY FIRST. The upper arms are the ones you're changing here I'm thinking and you'll then have to pull the cotter pin from the upper ball joint and remove the castellated nut with an impact gun. The kit most likely comes with new ball joints, so you can use a pickle fork with abandon to split the spindle/control arm. Keeping that torch close by, you can then remove the nuts from the camber eccentrics and drive the bolts out. Unless they're new, I'd pop for new ones and this would be the place to put the Moog offset ones to gain some camber when you align it. Pull the arm out and assemble in reverse order. Have fun- and I meant what I said about that torch, unless your car has been there and done that recently. 

[DadsCuda]

First thing I'd do is download the FSMs at mymopar.com if don't have one handy
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

Which kit is it?  Wilwood, DrDiff, SSBC,

good call. i just ordered a repair manual cd...i never think to look for downloads.
it's the stage 1 kit from doctor diff

[DadsCuda]

The torsion bar adjusters are in the middle of the lower control arm and have a hex head. They've been known to seize up, so looking at where they enter the threaded block an soaking them with penetrant would be a start. If have one and are good with it, an oxy/acetylene torch with about a #4 tip applied judiciously  and sufficiently can be your friend. One you get them to move, undo nearly them completely. This is based upon the car being lifted and properly supported- SAFETY FIRST. The upper arms are the ones you're changing here I'm thinking and you'll then have to pull the cotter pin from the upper ball joint and remove the castellated nut with an impact gun. The kit most likely comes with new ball joints, so you can use a pickle fork with abandon to split the spindle/control arm. Keeping that torch close by, you can then remove the nuts from the camber eccentrics and drive the bolts out. Unless they're new, I'd pop for new ones and this would be the place to put the Moog offset one to gain some camber when you align it. Pull the arm out and assemble in reverse order. Have fun- and I meant what I said about that torch, unless your car has been there and done that recently. 

excellent!!
this car sat for 6 years before i got it and it has been 3 years since i was able to get the money to start the work! 
i'm not too worried about breaking/cutting bolts off...and i did get new ball joints with the kit, so i guess i'll just get to it!
thanks!