Torsion Bars

[cudabob496]

How do you determine which torsion bar size one needs in their Cuda?

[dfrazz]

If you are not worried about what came stock concours restoration, IMO you need 1.03 - 1.10.  If you are going for autocross, then go even bigger.  I just put 1.10 Hotchkis t-bars in my Cuda with a 340 and it is a huge improvement over my stock bars.

[cudabob496]

If you are not worried about what came stock concours restoration, IMO you need 1.03 - 1.10.  If you are going for autocross, then go even bigger.  I just put 1.10 Hotchkis t-bars in my Cuda with a 340 and it is a huge improvement over my stock bars.

thanks. A huge improvement in what way?

[HP_Cuda]

Since models with 318's and 340's came with .88 torsion bars you can see that by adding a 1.10 torsion bar you will be putting a much stiffer bar in there. Hence your front end will be stiffer and can handle more in hard corners. As well, if you had a big block with added weight I believe you got the .92 torsion bars so going above that will help as well.

See here for more:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=75007.0

[cudabob496]

ya, certainly makes sense
but I've never viewed or used my Cuda as a corner carver.
just a stop light muscle car.
it does corner ok, mostly due to the front and rear anti-sway bars

[jhaag]

smaller diameter will allow more weight transfer on launch. Drag racers use small block or 6 cyl. t bars for increased weight transfer and better traction. trade off in handling. seems to be your deal 

[jordan]

Go with the larger torsion bar.  It won't affect your launch much, and you will have better wheel control when you hit the end of the straightaway at 100+mph.  Your car will feel better at normal speeds on your way to those point and shoot times.  I don't see a drawback to the bigger bars on the street. 

[dfrazz]

Go with the larger torsion bar.  It won't affect your launch much, and you will have better wheel control when you hit the end of the straightaway at 100+mph.  Your car will feel better at normal speeds on your way to those point and shoot times.  I don't see a drawback to the bigger bars on the street. 

   My Cuda feels much more solid now with bigger bars, better handling and feel of the road.

[cudabob496]

are they easy to replace??

[HP_Cuda]

The pain is getting them out once they are in.

You need to get a tool to clamp onto the torsion bars and wack the crap out of it backwards (after you pulled the ring holding it in of course). The other way I have learned is that if you drop the Kmember its also easy to get them out but that is usually reserved for large resto's or front end work.

Read here and check out the miller tool:
http://arengineering.com/tech/torsion-bar-tango/

[cudabob496]

thanks, do my stock torsion bars weaken over time???

[METAL BEE 68]

Id like to piggy back on this post (if thats ok) and ask what would be recommend for my set up. 70 challenger currently has slant six font end.  Going with a 440 with big block K frame. Im guessing the torsion bars need upgraded. I do have torsion bars from a 318 cuda. 

[HP_Cuda]

It really depends - do you want a stock ride or a harder ride?

Myself I put in 1.06 Torsion bars as they are stiffer but not as stiff as others. Remember stock was .92 to .96 if you wanted to upgrade.

Id like to piggy back on this post (if thats ok) and ask what would be recommend for my set up. 70 challenger currently has slant six font end.  Going with a 440 with big block K frame. Im guessing the torsion bars need upgraded. I do have torsion bars from a 318 cuda. 

[METAL BEE 68]

More so stock i guess.something good for cruising. I just another post asking this as well as another question so not to take over this post. Thank you.

[dfrazz]

thanks, do my stock torsion bars weaken over time???

no

quote author=cudabob496 link=topic=113254.msg1108745#msg1108745 date=1459017195]
are they easy to replace??
[/quote]

A buddy came up with this rig.  Its come-a-long attached to a drain hole in the rear frame rail with a heavy chain wrapped around the t-bar in the front and a couple vise grips clamped on right after the chain to stop the chain from flying off.  Just did my Charger yesterday and my Cuda couple months ago, and many other Mopars.  Looks goofy but it works.