Saggy

[Rdchallenger12]

Above my radio the gauge cover looks warped/saggying. What would be a simple fix for this if there is one? Thanks!

[HP_Cuda]

That bottom piece should not be bulging downward.

You must have something above pushing down on it. Take the dash piece off and see whats going on. 

[Rdchallenger12]

Lol well no, I didn't figure it should be like that. I don't think anything is pushing on it since I'm able to push it up where it should be. I almost feel like it got heat warped sometime in its past.

[HP_Cuda]

If that is the case, then I would check my wiring to the ammeter as they had electrical issues and some burst into flames.

This is a sore spot for the Cuda line.

[roadman5312]

If that is the case, then I would check my wiring to the ammeter as they had electrical issues and some burst into flames.

This is a sore spot for the Cuda line.

                                             

[Rdchallenger12]

Would anything in the car not work if that is the problem? Only reason I am asking is because everything within the dash is in working order (at least as far as I can see)

[anlauto]

I would take it to the bench, heat it up gently and clamp it down flat, see if that helps

[roadman5312]

Would anything in the car not work if that is the problem? Only reason I am asking is because everything within the dash is in working order (at least as far as I can see)

                  Everything would still work, BUT !!!!!!   If the ammeter is getting hot ( common problem )  it will lead to bad future problems. All power goes thru it. If possible climb under dash and look at the connections at the meter. 

[Rdchallenger12]

                  Everything would still work, BUT !!!!!!   If the ammeter is getting hot ( common problem )  it will lead to bad future problems. All power goes thru it. If possible climb under dash and look at the connections at the meter.

Electric def isn't my strong point. Would it just need rewired or what would be the fix?

[73_Cuda_4_Me]

It appears you definitely had some heat buildup above the warp... At a minimum, I'd jumper the ammeter by moving the ammeter - wire over to the + wire terminal (both wires on same post). This will make ammeter inoperable, but safe from generating more heat. Also perform the bulkhead wire bypass (prevents overheating the bulkhead connector and subsequent meltdown). A search for mopar bulkhead wiring bypass will get you a lot of information, such as this... http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Use a voltmeter to monitor battery and ammeter charge. I installed one below dash, and won't look back on ammeter.

As far as the warp goes, you may try a black plastic spine from a presentation folder (one of the ones with clear plastic front). Some have a slide-on spine that fits over the back edge on both sides, and is about 1/4" thick along edge that would fit up against your radio front. I've never tried this, mind you, it just popped into my pea brain as a quick trial fix... another option is using a plastic dowel welded or glued to top side of warped area.

[YellowThumper]

First confirm it is not warping just due to instalation. Could it be possible the bezel face is trying to wrap around something when screwed in? Loosen all mounting screws to aleviate possible tension as see if anything changes.

Second is to remove bezel. Does it stay warped?
If so then there is a "source" that caused it.
1) ammeter as many have already noted.
2) how hot does the factory radio get? See if there are heat signs on it.
3) do you have a rogue hose or something else from your heater blowing that direction?

#2 and 3 not likely as they are lower heat sources.

The bezel is an ABS material and can be heated up to make it pliable. Hand torch can work with LOTS of patience. No direct flame on it. Heat both sides (reiterate no direct flame) mostly put heat on back side though. Clamp lightly in something to hold it straight when it cools.

!Caution! Your window of pliable to too much is narrow. Patience...
Once material is heat soaked it will remain pliable for awhile. Don't rush it. Also be careful to not over tighten your clamp and damage texture.

Regardless of located heat source it is advisable to bypass ammeter gauge. That is not just us speaking it was a Ma Mopar recognized issue...

Good luck.
Mike

[Lbs]

Hi Thumper, I'm doing a lot of wiring on my car right now including the amp bypass. I have a quick question for you. In the picture below do you think it matters if I don't tie the black and red wires together? I simply took the red wire out of the process on both ends. Do you see that making any difference? I apologize for hijacking the thread. :cheers


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Rdchallenger12]

Hi Thumper, I'm doing a lot of wiring on my car right now including the amp bypass. I have a quick question for you. In the picture below do you think it matters if I don't tie the black and red wires together? I simply took the red wire out of the process on both ends. Do you see that making any difference? I apologize for hijacking the thread. :cheers


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hijack away! The more info on all of this the better.

[Lbs]

Haha, thanks RD........I know, we can all use mo info......


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[YellowThumper]

Been awhile since I modified mine and from the pic shown I believe you would be good to go. Looping it as shown just adds an additional flow path. Old adage of more is better. These old systems were not designed for all our newer requirements.

Mike