Lots of wiring upgrades

[Lbs]

I have done a number of wiring upgrades and for the most part am very happy wi h them.......except now my car won't run. :Banghead. I will just go through them and what I did and maybe someone will notice what bonehead mistake I made. I changed my alternator from the stock Chrysler alt to an AC delco 12si. It has internal voltage regulator. I ran and 8 gauge wire to the starter relay and the 12 gauge voltage sensing wire to a power insulating block next to the starter relay. I ran 10 gauge wire from starter relay to power block. I ran the third alternator 14 gauge wire through the firewall to an idiot light and then to the starter relay on the gray wire that I think is only hot while cranking. That was my amp gauge bypass procedure. My next suspected project was my addition of an electric fuel pump with oil pressure safety switch and relay. I have fused power going to the 30 outlet on relay. 85 outlet goes to a ground buss. 87 goes to the hot side of the fuel pump and 86 goes to the center outlet of the safety switch. I have a good ground on the pump itself. One side of the safety switch goes to the positive side of the coil and the other side to the starter solenoid......the gray cranking wire. The rest of the changes were relays for headlights and electric fan and I don't think they are the problem.
The problem in a nutshell is while cranking I have spark and fuel and it sounds like it's going to start, but when I let off the key it just dies like their is no spark any longer. Thanks for any help in advance. :drunk
I'll try to post some pics

[Lbs]

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[734406pk]

Check for 12 volts positive at the dark blue wire on the ballast resistor with the key turned in the "ignition on" position. Your description sounds like you have power to the ignition while cranking (brown wire) only. It could be your ballast resistor is burned out (open). 

[734406pk]

Here is a basic schematic for Chrysler electronic ignition:
 

[734406pk]

And one for a single ballast. (It looks like you have a dual ballast in the second pic.)

[Chryco Psycho]

If I understand this right  you have one side of you safety switch feeding the coil & the relay for the fuel pump ,  the other side is the feed to crank the engine so it will only be powered when the engine is ranking not running . is the switch open or closed with pressure ?
 I would put the safety switch  in the blue power feed to the ecu after the ballast not the coil   this will kill the ECU if the oil pressure drops . The other flaw I see is you will need a bypass switch as the engine will have to make oil pressure before the ign will turn on & start , this is OK cold but may not make enough pressure ranking when hot so it is better to over ride the safety until the engine starts

[Lbs]

Not sure I quite understand all of this or if the wire colors are matching up so I have some pictures here that might help you explain it to me. The problem is me, not you guys....


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[Lbs]

Here is the schematic I used for the install

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[734406pk]

I think i see how your fuel pump safety is wired.:
In the schematic you have a 3 pole pressure switch. The  fuel pump is connected to the Common terminal. The ignition coil feed is connected to the Normally open terminal which closes with pressure to run the f/p when you have oil pressure ( running). The normally closed terminal is connected to the start relay that applies power to the f/p only when cranking the starter so it will prime the carb. You are running a 2 pole(?can't tell from the pic) N.O. pressure switch between the coil positive feed and the f/p relay and a separate wire from the Mopar start relay (hot only while cranking) to the f/p relay for priming.
Is this correct?

[734406pk]

That might be a 3 terminal pressure switch. If so make sure that the wires are on the correct terminals and the pressure switch is working as labeled. Otherwise if there is a mixup, your ignition coil can ground out to the starter with oil pressure. Plus you would be better connecting the N.O. terminal to the dark blue wire feeding the ballast, this way you will have a full battery voltage to the relay coil. Right now you only have 5.3 volts (post-ballast). Check to see if you have spark output by pulling the coil wire from the distributor hold a 3/8" gap and crank the engine.

[734406pk]

Quote from first post:

I ran the third alternator 14 gauge wire through the firewall to an idiot light and then to the starter relay on the gray wire that I think is only hot while cranking.

Is this grey wire on the "S" terminal which goes to the main starter solenoid?

[Lbs]

Hey 6pak, thanks for all the great information. After spending some hours chasing down all these possibilities I am very happy to report that she is up and running. It turns out the wire I had coming off the +side of the coil is only 5 1/2 volts so I got power from the blue yellow wire on the ballast, 12 volts, put it all back together and it started and ran. :clapping. I'm not sure the voltage was the difference maker because I didn't check the way the wires were hooked to the safety switch before I took it apart. :drunk. The coil may have been shorting out with the starter like you said.......but it's great now.
To answer your question idiot light.....yes it goes to the grey wire on the starter relay. So the light goes on while cranking and shuts off when started.
Thanks again 6pak and Psycho.......


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[YellowThumper]

Silent observer says 

[734406pk]

I'm very happy it worked out for you and glad to help! The charge indicator light you have needs a modification to work as designed. I can fwd you the schematic when you are ready to tackle it. Work out any other bugs you have first, this one is minor. Good Luck!

[Lbs]

I would love to have the info to fix it up correctly when you get a chance. Didn't take the time when I was younger to learn a lot of this stuff but I'm all about learning it now. Thanks again for the help.
Mike


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